The World of Fashion

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLI, Issue 21, 18 November 1908, Page 70

The World of Fashion

(By

MARGUERITE.)

Farion." in Linen.

, Linen combined with silk, sutiii, velvet, lace or beautiful hand embroidery —wo see it everywhere this summer. 1 And for once fashion p-oes hand in hand with common sense, for what could •be more appropriate for wear in our summer temperature than linens? iThore’s nothing cooler looking than crisp, snowy linen when the mercury begins to climb ambitiously upward, and for cooler days the linens which are here this year in all kinds of fascinating and unusual colourings are just the thing.

Those who visited the shops when the Rummer fabrics were' lirst bn view could not fail to l»e impressed l»y the variety and novelty of this year’s linens. In the first place the art of dyeing linens sectnfed t to have taken several forward strides, such soft and beautiful colours were everywhere to la* seen. Queer, faded-looking blue*, and blueyvioiets and all the raspberry and cbral flbades were there k» delight an artial’a

eye, besides a hots of more usual colours. For smart tailored suits there were the inevitable two-toned stripes, as well as the ihdre bxtlustve hair line cheeks. There were linens which so well imitated rajah silk that it needed the sense of touch to distinguish between the two. French linens 'Were more than usually soft and velvety looking. If these things are a satisfaction to behold in the piece, how much more, admirable are they when we see them skilfully combined with contrasting fabrics and made up into dresses or suits—or that nondescript, but nevertheless most useful, jumper frock.

T'he jumper dress of linen is to the fore, again this year, and it has much to lie said in its favour. No wonder the majority of women refuse to discard it, although it. lias already, been worn for a longer time than fashion usually permits. As if to make jumper dresses more irresistible, the designers have taken particular pains with this year's models, and the- result is- most satisfactory. Worn over delicate guimpea of

lawn and embroidery or lace, these dresses are charming and cool, and adaptable into the bargain. . The particular point in which this year’s linen gowns and suits differ from other years is in their trimming. Hut we have become so accustomed to seeing all kinds of fabrics combined that linen trimmed elaborately with. satin or expensive lace does not seem at. all incongruous. From French designers we have learned the trick of using touches of black on coloured gowns to give chic or bring out some particular point, ami this season a costume without its brilliant black note is seldom seen. It may be only a minute neck-bow of black velvet or. satin, but it is there. . Black velvet isbeing used very effectively on coloured linens. Coats eut bn the strictly tailored lines, which never really go out, let butterfly sleeves and queer, floppy French coats come and go as they may have cuffs, collars, pocket flaps and buttons of black velvet, and skirts, too, are often trimmed with velvet coloured buttons to match. Of course you've noticed what an iinyiortant part buttons are playing in the Way of trimming. From ’being a merely useful part of dress they have been yaised to the position of being most orlumentai. Especially on linens are they found in all their glory. Buttons covered with linen and embroidered by hand iu silk which tones or contrasts with the dress are almost a necessity to a wellregulated linen frock. They run in lines down the frontof the swkirt liamh mil down the front of the skirt, they transfix trimmings, but more often are used solely aiid quite frankly for effect with no thought of use. Cretonne-covered buttons lend a quaintair to dresses of linen and are a most up-to-date trimming, for at last women seem to have accepted this;. upholstery fabric as a possible dress trimming. Now we see parasols of qretonmt in lovely designs and charming colourings, cretonne coats, hats swathed in cretonne, shopping bags made of cretonne, collars and cuffs of cretonne, belts and, as 1 have said, buttons—all of this effective material. Even delicate evening gowns of net and lace bear applied roses and other exaggerated large flowers the material which we formerly only with cottage But this is only what French y'oiitci'i have been doing for several seasons.■ ■ —