The World of Fashion

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLI, Issue 10, 2 September 1908, Page 68

The World of Fashion

(By

MARGUERITE.)

r The Greek key pattern wrought in pearls is the device chosen for the exquisite wedding-dress of classical design, is the design chosen for this exquisite Wedding dress of classical design. It is upon the folded bodice and the nhort chemise sleeves slashed at the back to show puffings of chiffon that the pearl Embroidery appears. The chiffon also reappears in the form of folded kerchief

that leaves the throat bare, and the ruckled modistie into which the kerchief is tucked. Upon the skirt pearls once more figure, but this time sparingly, for a device of the embroidery is all that is required to detain in their place the folds of satin that are arranged peplum-wise over a clinging skirt to match. Added to this effective and simple bridal attire is a very long train slung from the shoulders, over which the bridal veil of white tulle will fall, in vaporous folds, from a wreath of real orange blossoms. The bride’s dress ata fashionable wedding in Paris recently was a princeas gown in ivory satin with an emplacement of ' point d’Angleterre,” and over it was thrown an Alencon veil, held in place at the top of the head by a tiny wreath Of orange blossoms. Some people might have expressed surprise at its simplicity;

but to have done so would have been a confession of ignorance as to the “derniere mode” in wedding dresses. It is now the fashion in Paris to put as little trimming upon them as possible; only in order to make up for this simplicity they must be made of the finest materials, arid their cut must be irreproachable. Liberty satin is still the most general-

ly used material for Parisian weddingdresses, but silvery white “meteore” is frequently employed, and will doubtless become equally popular. Crepe de Chine is sometimes brought into requisition. The bride carried no bouquet. Flowers were formerly as popular in France as they were in England, and the bride’s bouquet used to be distributed among her girl friends, each of whom received a flower for good luek. Then came a time when the bouquet bry»an to diminish in size, until at last it disappeared and with it a very pretty and much regretted custom. The bridesmaids were all differently dressed, and they followed in the “cortege” with the relatives, instead of all being gowned alike and following in the train of the “mariee.” Several of the guests wore princess dresses, which, since fashion decrees that our gowns must be as tight fitting as possible, are becoming more and more

the vogue. In order to suit our taste for “deshabille,” these dresses must fit like a glove, and so as not to interfere with their graceful lines, their trimmings must lie perfectly fiat. © © ® Among the fashions this season are many that are more picturesque than practical, but at the same time add a finish and charm io the smartest gown and often transform one that while handsome is not effective into a fascinating costume. While the style of the moment is the gown that clings close to the figure and in some mysterious manner does away with hips and demands a waist line the size of a collar band, the loose coat or jacket or outside garment of any description is far smarter than the fitted one. There is one exception—the severe tailor made —but that is intended only for the ■most practical use. But be it remembered that these apparently loose fitting outergarments are most cleverly planned nev'er to really conceal the lines of the figure but rather to accentuate them if they are good lines, and equally clearly to disguise them if they are bad lines. Once again has come into existence the old saying that “there is warmth in a piece of lace,” and while there are many sceptical individuals who scoff at the idea of a lace wrap or coat being of real service, those who have tried know well that the thinnest, most filmy of such garments are most serviceable, providing just the additional warmth that is need-

ed, while if lined with silk or chiffon then are of the greatest advantage for coo* afternoons or evenings. The present craze for lace coats is too intense to per. mit the fashion being smart for any time, but there is a wide range of choice between the cheap bargain lace braid coat sold at all the large department shops and the marvellous complication of filmy thread, lace and chiffon that the leading dressmakers furnish to their most extravagant minded customers. But let the woman who can afford only the shop coat keep up a brave heart. The fashion may not last, but if she choose* ■wisely among these same bargain coats she can find one that is a bargain in every sense of the word. The new filet nets, and in fact all the new lace nets, make most attractive jackets and coats. They are delightfully cool in appearance and have something strangely fascinating about them, even when made of less costly laces. Bands of satin, silk or velvet finish these coats and give the needed weight, while it seems as if the dressmakers vie with one another to find new styles in the details of the trimmings. These same finishing touches are what give the smart individuality that makes one style the more effective, and yet at first glance it is extremely difficult to realise what thia note of distinction is. There is something indescribably attractive about the long cape of filet or lace net, with the lining of chiffon or India silk; it can so easily be slipped on or thrown aside, revealing the fascinat-

ing lan* aW graceful figure, *■<! while not eweaiial te tie Warrty «f eaid form, seems ta add a rare eharm to it. It is ea essentially feminine and artistie that even the most rampant of drese reformers who would have the world at large believe that elaborate dress adds nothing to the eharm of a woman, have to admit there is something after all in the fascinations of “feminine fripperies,” as laces and ribbons are called by the strong minded. © © © The Fichu for Fine Weather. Cable silk is the latest embroidery medium. It ie a link between filofloss and soutache, for while it is far more substantial than the former it is not so

heavy as the latter. It comes to pass, therefore, that it is indeed useful and effective as the rim, or framework, of a motif rendered in filofloss. The great style for corsages, and ono which is becoming to most people, is tho fichu in many different forms. It drapes tho upper part of tho sleeve and prevents the shoulders from looking too narrow. Moreover, it can be made out of any delicate material, and is a fine way for using up net and lace. For real summer wear there is to be an abundance of shantung, and some daring women announce their intention of wearing whole dressea of toile de Jouy, that be-

flowered material which in France seem* to take the place of our chintz. The idea, therefore, of converting oneself into a ehair or sofa does not seem attractive, and we may hope that the use of this material will be kept within bounds. Whenever possible, Lady Modish is careful to garb herself in accordance with her color tones. That is, she observes the time-honored rule of dressing to her hair and the colour of her eyes and her complexion, and endeavours to bring their toning into prominence by either contrasting or self-toned hues. To do this successfully she must not permit herself to be absolutely guided by the fashionable colours of the moment. In every instance the craze for a certain shade of the primary and neutral tints may be traced directly to the fad of some beautiful woman of such promin-

ence in the fashionable world that whatever she may elect to wear at once becomes the mode. © © © Black and White Symphonies. For the woman whose wardrobe is limited, there is no combination more thoroughly satisfactory than black and white, or vice-versa. This is not an exploitation of the over-worked shepherd's checks, but of the black satins, voiles, laces and nets which may be made up so effectively with or over white. -Because

of the colour contrasts, such costumes may be on very simple lines similar to those of the jusnper-princesse order having long, plain skirts, bordered widely with velvet and skeleton-like bodices, cabaehon and chenille-trimmed. These are worn over the white net blouse and skirt mounted upon taffeta which also serves as a slip for the white voile or lace gown that is trimmed wholly with big black velvet discs or perhaps has a relieving colour introduced into the bordering of the tissue robe. ,© © © Brown Summer Millinery. One of the smaller fads of the season is for the brown hat. The summer invariably develops a particular eraze for some one colour in millinery. Sometimes

it is vivid green, which is the dominating note in the majority of hats. There have been other seasons when a special shade of blue appeared in one form or another on the summer hats. This season the

brown note is very evident, but it ie la. trodneed in a quaint fashion that quit* distinguishes this summer's hat fron£ that of other seasons. There are any number of ways in which the colour can be used. If a plain brown hat is not becoming no one need feel that the color may not appear in lesser degree on the summer hat. A wide brimmed hat. especially one which turns down, has, on the contrary, quite a summery effect, especially if the trimming be of flowers or tulle. Such a hat is most charming with a wreath of white marguerites and a big brown bow, or with a trimming of white and brown, gauze ribbon or tulle. Brown tulle with white aigrettes is an attractive combination. For a rather more elegant hat, equally light and summery in effect, the brown crinoline hat is admirable The only trimming is a group of ostrich plumes at the side. This hat is most attractive foe wear with foulard gowns and those oi pongee or voile, while the flower trimmed hat previously described is considered ad l mirable to complete a linen costume or of lawn batiste. © © © The Gray Vogue. •Just now gray is being worn to an almost unprecedented extent by women of every age. Gray is used in every shade, from that known as “London smoke,” to that exquisitely delicate tint best described as “oyster.” © © © Popularity of Satin. Satin, so long shelved, has come sweeping into vogue again, much as have the dainty muslin embroideries. The satin gown in the present day quality of fabria is, light of weight; it accentuates th® lines of the figure, reduces its apparent bulk and is decidedly becoming. As ae all-round fabric it is unequalled, not only foy gowns but for coats, alone and in combination with a variety of material®.