THE WORLD OF FASHION

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XL, Issue 20, 13 May 1908, Page 65

THE WORLD OF FASHION

By

MARGUERITE

How to Make a Winter Dressing Gown. At- this season of the year, the girl ■who can make her own things finds, on inspecting her wardrobe, many serious deficiencies which must be remedied before the winter sets in. First and foremost in this list of deficiencies, a presentable dressing-gown is very often to be found, the little cotton crepe kimono which has done duty since the spring being condemned as unsuitable. Choice

They are descendants of the Russian peasant and military caps that have been so very fashionable in Paris lately—as a rule made of skunk." One of the type will be seen sketched on this page; part of a costume carried out in ruby cloth, the softest and most beautiful of colours, yery handsomely braided with black soutache, outlined with gold thread and interspersed with black satin in the narrowest folds held down by gold thread. Observe with the elaborately braided coat the studiously simple skirt fastened 'down the centre seams with black satm-covered buttons, trimmed with bullion —a contrast at present one of Fashion’s freaks. This is a toilette that would look very smart in myrtle green cloth and black braid, Worn with a skunk stole and mud' or all Hack for mourning wear.

then has to be made between a befrilled garment carried out in cotton material and lace, in the hope that the weather may be propitious, and a more generally useful garment designed in flannel or cashmere on kimono lines. The latter material makes an ideal dressing-gown, but unless white is chosen, it cannot be entrusted to the laundress, and coloured cashmeres spoil and stain with water splashes.

Six yards of shrunk flannel, bordered with a four-inch band of Japanese washing silk in the same shade, or some contrasting colour, make a comfortable little dressing-gown that can be sent to the wash when soiled.

The modified kimono made with gored side-seams is much more suitable to tall English figures than the strictly square garment, which gathers round the feet when folded across in true Japanese style. The material should be cut into five pieces of equal length, one of which is laid aside for the sleeves, while two of the four remaining pieces are joined together for the back, the two front pieces being pinned together temporarily. The two large squares thus made are laid one on the top of the other, and the sides sloped off from top to bottom, until the top part is about half the width of the bottom. The arm-holes, which are very wide, start six inches from the" waistline. The side seams can next be run up, when the shoulders should be sloped off from the arm-holes to six inches from the oentre join, and may be gathered up to the requisite width, or flat pleats may be made and stretched down for eight or nine inches back and front. The neck is rounded and sloped off to allow of ita

being folded across in front without any angle, and at this stage the garment should be put on to see whether the sideseams make poi tits at the bottom and how much requires to be cut off. The silk band to edge the neck, fronts, sleeves, and hem should have a lining of batiste to stiffen it, and the piece bordering the neck should be cut out as if it were a collar, and carefully fitted, so that no darts have to be made to spoil the roll round the neck and the sloped-off fronts. The band reserved for the sleeves is cut in half, each half being folded over slightly on the cross, and the triangular pieces at the wider ends cut off. These form the bottom of the sleeves, and are bordered with the silk. The narrower ends are rounded and sewn into the armholes, no gathering probably being necessary.

All seams should be run up on the wrong side, and, if a machine is used, should be simply turned over and stitched down again, the raw edge being cut off close. A very neat finish, however, can be effected by sewing a piece of sarcenet ribbon or binding along the seam, turning that over the raw edge and stitching it down.

In applying the silk border, tack the edge of the flannel back on the right side all round and machine the two edges together, the silk being already tacked over its lining of batiste. A cord waist-band with tassels is the correct finish to such a dressing-gown, and little slots should lie sewed on tiie side seams through which it may be passed.

For the nightdress the accompanying design combines protection and prctlincsfl tn a very satisfactory fashion, and the lace at the yoke can be used in applique instead of insertion form, to ensure extra warmth. The smart little inorni "8 shirt shows a now arr-ngement of pleats which is very liccoining to the (by the way, the narrow pleatings should Is- continued al the back)—and you can introduce variety by means of the tiesuid belts.

! French flannel is quite a perfect material for anything in the way of dressing jowns or matinees, as it is so-soft and warm and absolutely refuses to shrink iwlien washed! It is obtainable in a variety of pretty patterns and colourings. ’As to the design for a little dressing and breakfast jacket, our artist has arranged sonictiling quite novel and very becoming, and it only remains to choose your flannel and some soft washing silk in the colour of the spots, to be used as a border and a waistbelt. The same design could, of course, be utilised, for a long gown, the silk border being carried right down the front.

I This gown is made in Princess form of dark green, the slightly draped folds of the corsage being apparently held in place at either side by a series of cloth•Ovcred buttons, while there is a chemisette and little under-sleeves of lace. . Also introduce as a bordering to the cloth a touch of the silky braid of slightly barker green, which appears on the skirt hem. This braid figures again on the Coat, and is finished off with hanging ornaments of silken cord. The hat is jrocn felt, either trimmed with ostrich fiathers or with a cluster of coque feathers curving from a rosette of velvet in front, and drooping right over the Mown on to the hair at the back.