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Life in the Garden

Practical Advice for Amateurs

NEXT WEEK’S WORK. By VERONICA. SEEDS TO SOW THIS MONTH. Flower— Dianthus, Gaillardia (Perennial), Lupinus Arboreus (Snow Queen), Mignonette, Pyrethrum, Sweet Peas. Vegetable — Broad Beans, Carrot (Earliest Forcing Horn), Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce (Cabbage), Onions (Brown Spanish), Radish, Turnips (early sorts). Bulbous Hoots — Anemones, Hyacinths, Iris, Ixias, Narcissus, Ranunculus, Sparaxis, Gladiolus (The Bride), Potato Onions, Shallots, Garlic. GENERAL GARDEN WORK. This is a very busy month in the garden. Every vacant piece of land not already dug or trenched should be turned up roughly at once. Some people eager to get an early dish of green peas sow this month, and it is worth trying. We adlvise sowing the earliest kind, and one which does not grow tall. They should be sown on a dry and sheltered spot. Cabbage, broccoli, savoys, and other crops will require hoeing. Attend to thinning carrots, beet, and turnips, and keep free from weeds. Kumaras should be dug this month, and stored in a dry, cool, cellar- Asparagus bedte should be dressed with stable manure to the depth of three or four inches —a top dressing of Kainit will be of benefit. Salt is generally recommended, but we prefer the Kainit, as it contains generally about 20 per cent, of potash, and the cost when labour is considered is not very much greater than the ordinary agricultural salt. Those who grow seakale should fork over beds and give a manure dressing. Rhubarb roots should be lifted. We have found that lifting and turning them crowns down and! leaving them for six weeks does no harm but rather improves them. They a manure dressing. Rhubarb roots then have a thoroughly good rest. Late crops of bulbs should be planted this month. Where frosts are not general, or where time can be given to protect them from frosts, Cinerarias should be planted out. These plants are most ef. fective for bedding, and where conditions are favourable they should be largely planted. Herbaceous Hardy perennials can be divided and replanted. Big over land! intended for planting fruit trees, roses, ornamental trees and hedging plants. Fruit trees and orcchards generally will be greatly benefited oy a dressing of basic slag. This fertiliser gives the best results when put on at this season. Five ewt. to the acre is a fair dressing. Some orchardists prefer mixing the slag with Kainit —3 cwt. slag and 2 cwt. Kainit. -A* jS PLAN OF A BOSE GARDEN ON AN AREA SIXTEEN YARDS SQUARE. The sketch will suggest one method of carrying out the work. In the centre of the design (1) may be planted climbing varieties, and these can he trained to form an arbour, or their growths may be suspended to a central pillar or stake, (2) These four circular beds should be planted with dwarf Polyantha Roses, using varieties of one colour only to each bed. Between these are beds (3) that can be planted with Tea or Hybrid-Tea varieties of distinct colours. The corner beds (4) should be planted with Hybrid perpetual ’varieties in clumps of three plants of one variety, and interspersed with strong growing plants. Seats in the

recesses (5) should have rustic arches above them trained with Rosa Wichuraiana and other rambling Roses. The entrance (6) should consist of an arch-cov-ered way, while four rustic arches (7), spanning the grass-covered walk, will complete the design. GARDENING IN SOUTH RUSSIA. We have reproduced a photograph by Professor T. Treuberg, showing a parterre in his garden, situated near Kharkoo in South Russia. It will be seen that

the style is what we should describe in England as formal. The circular bed is raised into a great cone-shaped pile, and its smooth banks are planted with dwarf habited species to represent carpet bedding, sufficient to indicate the interesting character of this Russian garden.—-“ Gardener’s Chronicle.” J* Ji COLONIAL-GROWN TOBACCO. There is a movement on foot to grow tobacco in British colonies, and at the International Tobacco Exhibition, to be held in March next at the Royal Horticultural Hall, Westminster, there will be made a representative display of colonial tobaceo leaf sent by the tobacco growers of Cape Colony, the Transvaal, Rhodesia, Natal, Australia, Canada, Jamaica, Bermuda, Ceylon, North Borneo, and other colonies.

ROCKWORK. Of all the numerous works to embellish a garden, there is none that has so much effect as rockwork. The aspect for a rockery, if convenient, should be facing North, because most Alpines are hardy, therefore they are at home when exposed to wild weather and when covered with snow during the winter; thus our artificial rockery should have as little sun as possible. Rock constructing is most effective when it is not constructed on the level ground, as greater contrasts in formation are possible where the lie of the ground is uneven than where all inequalities have to be artificially made; and, where a steep spot could be obtained for a rock garden, it would answer much better than a deadlevel position, because it would naturally give different levels, thus making the design much easier to plan, and also cause less labour in making mounds. But, on the other side, a rock garden may be placed in such a position as it

may be viewed from a high elevation, and perhaps this idea would feast the eye more than the first-mentioned position. Of course, it is just a matter of taste in choosing the situation for a rock garden. Where the situation is fixed, much judgment and taste are required in the arrangement; but first of all it is necessary to see that the ground is properly drained, as stagnant water is harmful to many of our beautiful Alpines. Ensure a free run at the foundation, so as to get safety. After the ground has been measured off in which the rockery is supposed to be situated, the beds should be excavated to the depth of 18 inches at least, then it should be filled up with stones, the rougher the material the better, such as broken bricks, elinker, broken crockery, etc. Side drains would do their duty if used, and these I highly recommend for a heavy soil, by placing them 9 inches or

so below the surface, ami can be easily laid when filling in the material. HOW TO BUILD RtKKWORK. Of course, there are many methods of building rock gardens, although not all successful methods, and very often a rockery has to come down after being built because the errors are seen during the first year’s trial; this may be traced by having shallow pockets, or the stones too closely built, thus robbing root room. To construct a rockery properly, one must use all his judgment, and it is no easy task, as you must be prepared to face labour and undertake the work thoroughly from the commencement. Another important factor to study before commencing is—it may seem a trifle, but it is of great importance—that we give each subject due consideration before building takes place. We are all aware that the Alpine family is a large one, and many of these elegant plants require full sunshine to grow them successfully; but the majority of the Alpine tribe require to be shaded from the sun. or have as little as possible during the cold months, therefore each subject must be considered before hand. It is not a difficult matter to provide shading for such plants by inserting perpendicular rocks in such a position as to guard off the sun. Commence by placing all the large rocks in position before adding the soil. and. as the work proceeds introduce the smaller stones, but these should bo as rustic as possible. Of course, rustic stones are very scarce, but avoid the use of round stones. The soil must be deep, so as to admit of the roots descending or running back between the interstices of the stones and reaching a depth where the earth remains moist. If the soil is shallow, it soon becomes parched in hot weather, and all but the most vigorous subjects will not thrive. The chief cultural requirements for the Alpines are full exposure and a moist root-run. ROCKWORK IN FRONT Of HERBACEOUS BORDER. This substantial idea in front of Hower borders play its part with charming effect. After having made the same this season, it is my object to give an account of the work, which might induce the reader to practise the idea. Obviously it is not too late to commence, for the best time to plant Alpines is in the spring; in fact, there is little labour attached to it. especially when you consider the charming effect obtained after the work is properly constructed. Of course, this does away with the common Boxwood a little, although it is our well-known edging material, and certainly I admit it is of valuable service to gardens in keeping the edging “tip-top”; but there is room for a piece of rockwork which will enhance the scene with more effect than straight lines of Boxwood would do. It is my desire to see the whole gar-

den edged with rockwork, and it is my object to induce the gardener to introduce a piece just for a simple trial, and he will not regret the labour spent. The systematic procedure is to mark off at points 21 to 3 feet trenches in front of the border, and trench the marked-off ground two spits deep; this when done should remain for a week or two before doing anything more, except getting a suitable soil ready. This soil is to raise a mound at an elevation of about 1.1 feet, taken from the surface of the walk. After the soil has been placed ami well firmed to the above elevation, the stones can now be got ready. No time need be lost, for planting can be commenced; in fact. I approve of the method of planting before the stones are arranged, but it must not be forgotten to place a small stake at the back of each plant after it reaches its new home, especially to plants that are entirely covered with soil, such as roots without foliage, or otherwise they would be smothered with the stones that followed: by planting before arranging

tlie stones the individual has a better chance of planting, and the stones are verv casilv arranged round the plants. It is important that the outline next to the path or walk should be irregular, and the stones should be judiciously and tastefully mixed. .1. W. FORSYTH, In “Scottish Gardener.” JU j* THE CULTIVATION OF BANANAS IN COSTA RICA. Some idea of the nature and extent of the Banana production in Costa Rica may be gathered from a recent report on the subject, from which we take the following notes. The plants grow all the year round, the shoots begin to produce at the age of tune months, and are cut down every season. The Banana bunches are measured by hands, each perfect hand containing 22 bananas. The average number of hands on a bunch ranges from 7 to 22, and the average number of bananas on a bunch is 144, though a few bunches have been found bearing more than 500. The land along the coast is peculiarly adapted to banana cultivation. While the banana plants throve for awhile in other countries of Central America, no soil seemed rich enough to (and the continuous cultivation of the fruit save Costa Rica and Upper PanamaFifteen hunches of fruit is the estimate yield per acre each month, and. taking the average of 144 bananas to the bunch, it will b t . seen that each acre will produce 15.020 bananas. The United! Fruit < o. owns 150,000 acres of land suitable for lianana culture, the greater portion of which is remote from the railway, and

is not yet utilised for the production of bananas. Ijrst year the company purchased about half the bananas it shipped. Many growers own their own farms. During 1000 no less than 8,500,000 bunches were shipped from Port Limon, of which 5,000,000 went to the United States. About 100 ships or, on an average, more than one ship per day, loaded with bananas left Port Limon last year. This year it is confidently believed 10,000,000 bunches will be exported. A ship of 3,000 tons sometimes takes from 40,000 to 50,000 bunches; 32,000 bunches or over 4,600,000 bananas are about an average load. When it is stated! that the United Fruit Co. has 102 ships occupied in carrying fruit to the United States and Europe, some idea may be gained of the tremendous growth of the business. Many of the ships ply between Cuba, Jamaica, and other fruit-producing countries, and the ports of the United States, as well as of England. Although Jamaica bananas are considered by epicures of better quality, the Costa Rica or Limon fruits sell better in the market, owing to their superior appearance.

THE NEW POTATO DISEASE. A DANGER TO BE TAKEN SERIOUSLY. Professor E. S. Salmon delivered an address before members of the Market Gardeners, Nurserymen, and Farmers’ Association in London on “black scab.” or “warty disease” of potatoes, which he described as a serious menace. It was most important that they should awaken the Board of Agriculture to the necessity of dealing with the disease under the Destructive Insects and Pests Act. If allowed to spread through the whole of the country and to reach Ireland it would cause losses amounting to hundreds of thousands of pounds, and unless dealt with promptly it would attain a magnitude that it' would be impossible to cheek. The Board of Agriculture should make it a notifiable disease. THE NEW GAVIOTA PLUM. Mr. Luther Burbank gives a brief description and a figure of this new plum, raised by himself, in “The Rural Californian.” It is a cross between Americana and Japan, with probably half-a-dozen other varieties combined in it. The fruit is recommended as one of the best shipping varieties, and the tree is stated to be very resistant to disease of all kinds. The habit is less rampant but more productive than Formosa. Its season at Sebastopol (one of Burban’s nurseries) is from July 15 to August 5. The fruit is deep reddish-purple, and the flesh is firm, pale yellow, fragrant, and sweet.

PLANT THIEVES. Parliament will shortly deal with a Bill which provides that any person stealing, destroying, or damaging with intent to steal any plant, root, fruit, flower, or vegetable product having a market value and growing in any cultivated or enclosed land, or in the hedge or bank bounding any such land, shall be guilty of larceny. Hitherto only gardens and such places have been protected from the plant stealer. A clause is included in the Bill to protect persons from prosecution for plucking wild flowers and fruits growing by the wayside. THE SNOWDROP. The Snowdrop is the herald of the flowers, Sent with its small white flag of truce to plead For its beleaguered brethren—suppliantly It prays stern winter to withdraw his troop Of winds and blustering storms; and, having won. A smile of promise from its pitying face, Returns to tell the issue of its errand To the expectant host. Westwood. .st J* THE HORTICULTURAL OUTLOOK. In the course of his inaugural address before the Scottish Horticultural Association, Mr. James Whytoek, the president, made some interesting remarks on “The Horticultural Outlook.” He was of opinion that during the sixties and seventies proprietors spent more on horticulture than they had ever done before or since. The various fashions in gardening that had obtained through the period indicated were dealt with in turn. These included the ribbon border, carpet bedding. subtropical bedding, and modifications of the mixed system of bedding, which is still the fashion. After visiting the parks and public gardens of Paris, both in spring and summer, Mr Whytoek is emphatically of opinion that the public parks and gardens of Britain can more than hold their own with those of the French capital, and he believes that the public parks of Glasgow can hold their own against the world. What is wanted for cities and large towns, in addition to the present gardens, Mr Whytoek thinks, is large areas acquired and maintained by the State, easy of access, and where the citizens could roam amid sylvan beauty and rest under the cool shade of trees. Regret was expressed that, in an “east-windy” city like Edinburgh, there was not in the centre of the city a commodious winter garden. Speaking of gardeners, past and present, it was affirmed that the true gardener was a gentleman in manners and courtesy. The president believes that, owing to the advance of science, the gardener of the future will be able to raise more produce, at less cost, from a given area than has been done in the past.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/periodicals/NZGRAP19080513.2.54

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XL, Issue 20, 13 May 1908, Page 39

Word Count
2,816

Life in the Garden New Zealand Graphic, Volume XL, Issue 20, 13 May 1908, Page 39

Life in the Garden New Zealand Graphic, Volume XL, Issue 20, 13 May 1908, Page 39

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