French Cookery Simplified.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXIX, Issue 21, 23 November 1907, Page 58

French Cookery Simplified.

TWO I AVOURITE DISHES. Two good entrees are “‘Fricandeau de vean a I'oseille" ami "Ragout demon ton." Fricandeau de veau a Poseilleisa dainty dish of veal and sorrel, or spin Ingredients.—A pound or more of leg of veal, cut from the thickest part, what English butchers call the cutlet, some raw bacon fat. carrots, onions, butter. bouillon from the “pot au feu” (this stock should always be ready to hand), a clove or two. some whole pepper. and a little salt. Last, but not least, a larding needle. The use of the latter is not as common in this country as abroad (except, of course, in la

haute cuisine), yet there is no reason why this should be so. Larding is extremely easy. It is also inexpensive; in fact, the parings of fat from the morning rasher supply the material. The necessary needles can be bought for a few pence each at most of the stores. Sorrel or spinach can be served with veal or separately.

First Process.—Take, say, a pound of veal about an inch and a-half thick. Form it into two nicely-shaped pieces. Process 2. —but some parings of fat bacon into slices to fit your larding needle, strips (say) of two inches long. Put a strip into the open end of the needle. Then run the pointed end of the larding needle in and out of the veal, to about half an inch deep, leaving about a quarter inch of fat on each side. This should be done at equal intervals along one side only of each fricandeau. Process 3.—Put enough butter into a stewpan to cover the bottom’ of the pan. or. better, put it into a French earthenware mannite. Let the butte' melt. Process 4.—Cut up the carrots and onions very fine, put them into the melted butter, and let them simmer for a

few minutes. They make what the French call a “eouehe,” or bed, for the meat. Process s.—Put the larded veal into the pan (the larded side uppermost) containing the vegetables, together with two eloves, some whole pepper, and a pinch of salt, adding sufficient stock from the “pot au feu” to half-cover the meat, remembering always that the “lardons” must on no account be covered. Let it come to a boil on a gentle fire. The stock will naturally reduce, and if necessary more bouillon must be added. Process 6. —When the meat has come to a boil cover it with a buttered paper, and put another buttered paper, two or three times doubled, over the mannite or saucepan before putting the lid on again. Let it simmer on a very gentle fire until done; it will take from two

to three hours. If a larding needle passes through veal easily it is sufficiently eooked. Process 7. —Strain the gravy the meat has been cooked in very carefully through a fine sieve. Then pour it over the meat. lit France you often get this dish served on a layer of sorrel. Personally I prefer the sorrel separate, as then the fricandeau can be served cold if preferred. Sorrel is not so well known in England as it deserves, possibly because its acidity is dreaded, but the French have a method of cooking it which eliminates this. . Ingredients.—Sorrel, butter, cream or milk, yolk of one egg, salt, sugar, pepper. Process I.—lf the sorrel is sold in the state it is picked it must be very care-

fully picked over, all flowering steins must be eliminated, and unless it be very young the ribs of the leaves must be thrown aside. The careful washing of sorrel is of great importance. Process 2. — Put the clean sorrel into plenty of boiling water, well salted, and with a pinch of sugar thrown in. Process 3.—After from ten to twenty

minutes fast boiling, drain the sorrel through. hair sieve, then pour a lot of cold water on it, and let it drain as dry as possible. The cold water takes the natural acidity out of it. Process 4. —Put some butter into a saucepan. Allow an ounce to each pound of soTel. Beat up the yolk of the egg with a tablespoonful of cream or milk, and then add it to the butter. Add the sorrel as quickly as possible, and stir until well amalgamated, taking care not to boil.

RAGOUT DE MOUTON. Ingredients.—Neck of mutton, two ounces butter or good clarified dripping, two tablespoonfuls of flour, some stock from the ‘‘pot au feu,” pepper, salt, sugar, a bouquet of herbs, turnips or carrots, or both, one small onion, or a shalot.

First Process.'-Cut up the mutton into small piece's, paring away the fat. Process 2. —Make a “roux,” viz., put the butter into a saucepan, and let it melt over a gentle fire. Then add the Hour carefully, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon, so that the result is of a cream-like consistency. Do not let the sauce colour too much. Process 3. —In about ten minutes put the meat in the saucepan. Then keep stirring continuously for at least twenty minutes.

Process 4. —Add enough stork to cover the meat. Stir until it comes to a boil, then draw it to one side and let it simmer gently, adding pepper, salt, and sugar. Process s.—Peel and cut into dice like pieces as many small carrots and turnips as taste dictates. Add the onion or shallot finely sliced. Process 6.—Put sufficient butter or fat into a frying-pan to take the amount of vegetables you have ready. Place the pan with butter and vegetables on a quick fire. As soon as the vegetables take colour—i.e., become a little brown ■ —add them to the saucepan in which the meat is simmering. Process 7.—Stew the whole very gently until both vegetables and meat are cooked. The time varies according to quantity, but it is usually from two to three hours.

Personally I am of opinion that this dish, like most stews, is better if allowed to get cold, then heated again, and served the following day. This facilitates the eliminating of all fat, which is easier skimmed oft’ when cold. In serving. the vegetables are placed in the centre of the dish, with the meat all round.—M. F.