SUNNY JERSEY

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXIX, Issue 4, 27 July 1907, Page 57

SUNNY JERSEY

Tk JF ANY places have been named and IVI misnamed “The Garden of EngI I land,” an appellation -which of I JL right belongs to but one spot ▼ in the British Isles, and that is the Island of Jersey. From every point of view this lovely island fulfils all the requirements for a just claim to such a designation. Its situation—as of a place set apart for the cultivation of the rarest exotics in the open air; its climate —which is as that of an old garden facing the south and sheltered from ■all chilling winds; and its beauty—of which Nature, like a loving gardener, has been truly prodigal. And Jersey has not lacked the praise of those to whom her supreme loveliness has been a source of genuine delight. The master-poet of our day, Victor Hugo, who lived in and loved Jersey, spoke and wrote in no dubious terms of the “lovely garden of the sea,” and “Max O’Rell.” in his enthusiasm, called her “The Eldorado of the Earth,” while Sir Benjamin Brodie, forsaking for a moment the temperate language of science, exclaimed. “If you want health for the body, rest for the mind, pure air, and splendid scenery, all of God’s giffs which go to make a terrestrial Paradise. I em-

phatically advise you to go to Jersey.” Jersey is an island cradled in sunshine and sweet air. The exuberance of its vegetation is alone conclusive proof of the amount of strong sunlight it receives, while in addition to this benign influence, it enjoys the continguity of the Gulf Stream, and a great range of tides, which, surging quickly through the passages between the adjacent islands, fill even the most inland districts with refreshing scents of the shore and broadblown breaths of the sea. Visitors to Jersey, if they are wise, should go by the Great Western, which undertakes the day trip from Weymouth. The boats are luxuriously fitted with All possible requirements of even the most sybaritieal of travellers, and the sea passage is in summer one of the pleasantest. Arrived at St. Helier. the capital of the Island, and its only town, and having secured a “pied a terre” at one of the many excellent hotels, the visitor naturally considers the best way to see the beauties of his surroundings. A general view of the Island cannot be better secured than by availing oneself of the admirable service of the ’ electric tramcars which run in all directions, or by resigning oneself to the guidance of the conductors of one of the many cars which for a modest sum can be hired to follow any desired route. Carriages

and wagonefles are also available, and the cyclist and the pedestrian will find that the roads are very good, and that they can thoroughly enjoy their respective means of locomotion. St. Helier has historic associations, for in the Royal Square in 1781, was fought the memorable battle of Jersey, occasioned by the audacious attempt of a French adventurer to take the town in

the name of France. He was defeated by Major Pierson, who was but 24 years of age, and was killed, Major Pierson also falling in the encounter. St. Helier can boast of possessing two beaches, “La Colette” and “Greve d’Azette,” on the former of which the Jersey Swimming Club have built their swimming pool; in the latter and in St. Clement’s Bay adjacent,

the sea is full of rocky islets. In that delightful book, the “Battle of the Strong,” it is said: — “ You may range the seas and you will find no such landing-place for imps or men as the field of rocks on the southeast corner of Jersey, called, with a malicious irony, the Bane des Violets. The great rocks rise up like volcanic monuments from a flow of lava and trailing vraic, which at half tide makes the sea a tender mauve and violet. The passages of safety between these reefs are but narrow at high-tide, and at half-tide, when the currents are changing most, the violet fields becomes the floor of a vast mortuary chapel for unknowing mariners. The terrible source of danger these rocks in the neighbourhood of the Channel Islands may become has been imaginatively treated by Victor Hugo in his ‘ Toilers of the Sea,” and by Mr. Swinburne in his narrative poem, “ Les Casquets.” In St. Aubin's Bay, the finest by far in the islands, a huge bathing pool called the Victoria Marine Lake gives secure bathing facilities. On the coast line is that ancient pile, “ Elizabeth Castle,” the building of which was commenced in the reign of Edward VI., and which underwent many changes during subsequent reigns. From St. Helier to Mount Orgueil by the coast is a delightful walk. Near the baths mentioned

above stands the Maison Victor Hugo, where the famous poet lived until he left for Guernsey. Mount Orgueil Castle which overlooks Gorey Harbour, is the most notable of Jersey’s ancient monuments, and is a perpetual reminder— Of old, unhappy, far-off things, And battles long ago. Turning from man’s handiwork to the beauties of Nature, we view Rozel Bay and Bouley Bay, from the latter of which we may make our way to Plemont. Here the scenery is wilder as we approach Bonne Nuit Bay, which for all its suggestions of peace and quiet is by no means placid at all times. One of the finest sights in wild weather is a safe view of the sea round Belle Hogue Point, anil many another point on the coast where the angry waves are seen to .. . . climb and fall. And roar rock-thwarted into bellowing caves Below the windy wall. From Plemont one naturally proceeds to Corbiere to view, or walk to, the celebrated Needle Rock, to the south of which lies St. Chien's Bay, the largest in the Channel Islands, having at its most southern extremity the celebrated Corbiere lighthouse. Readers of Hugo’s “ L’Homme qni rit ” will remember his description of the older form of lighthouse. with its summit crowned by a bowl full of (laming oil, to which misguided se.a birds flew to meet with sudden death. Fliquet Bay. with its huge, fantastic rocks, and St. Brelade and its bay, are the next to call our attention, and later the beautiful island-dotted Portelet Bay attracts the tourist by its surpassing beauty. Jersey abounds in lovely valleys and beautiful roads and lanes, which charm the heart of the tourist as he threads his way through their verduous glooms and winding mossy ways. Of the valleys, that called the Valley des Vaux is. perhaps. the most beautiful, especially when at eventide silence reigns supreme and grey twilight pours on dewy pastures and dewy trees softer than sleep. The Belloz.anne Valley possesses an avenue of trees which afford grateful shelter on hot summer days, and the Water Works Valley is one of the prettiest. and derives not a little of its beauty from the many ferns and wild flowers which fill its happy shadows.