THE VIVID EAST

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXVIII, Issue 25, 22 June 1907, Page 8

THE VIVID EAST

First Impressions of a Colonial Cleric

By

the Rev. JOSEPH PARKER,

sometime Congregationalist

Minister, Auckland.

Xi>. 11. THE VENICE OF THE SOUTHERN SEAS. ONE <»l the dreams of my life has been to visit Venice; Venice, the city of the water highways, the gilded gondolas, and the splendour of the Doeges. Hut I am now content. I have seen Manila. Manila is the Venice of the southern seas; and liefore any Australian or New Zealander travels over 12.000 miles ami incurs great expense to visit Venice of European fame, let him see the Venice of the Philippines, which lies almost at his doors. .Manila has its waterways, made possible by the serpentine course of tin* river Pasig, and Manila Bay. ami these waterways arc spanned by numer-

ous bridges. Instead of gondolas. Manila has an unbroken succession of strange looking- craft, built high in the stern, and covered with matting and tibia*, as a protection for the numerous families which sometimes live aboard one of them. As many as twelve families have been found on one of these barges. I am assured, but I had the evidence of mine own eyes for the existence of what appeal rm I to be thre. families on many boats. The painting of the Doeges

palaces ale not to be found in Manila, but instead the most wondrously beautiful sunrises and sun-settings in the world are to l>.* seen from the Luneta (a beautiful promenade when* thousands of people listen to the strains of a band made famous by winning the second pr.ze at th.* St. Louis Exhibition). I n Australia we have nothing old save th hills and the gum trees; upon all our buildings and institutions is the stamp of almost painful newness, but in Manila are to be found wall- 3(1 feet thick crumbling to decay through length of service. In an unbroken succession of nearly 40(1 years the Spanish dag waved over th •

Philippines. When hlac kfellows, wallabies. and snakes roamed and crawled over the sites of Melbourne. Sydney, and Brisbane, and th Maori reigned supreme in New Zealand. Spanish Dons lorded it over the Filippinos. and impressed upon them from love of the beautiful, along with their court ly manners. Within th* walled city of Manila, on every hand, one sees evidences of great wealth, of skilful arfisanship. and rich design. There are miles .of houses built in solid rows of massive masonry, embellished with carvings and cornices utterly regardless cd’

time and human labour. Every little while one is confronted with enormous doors, and off these again are to b.* seen elaborate provision for the care of carriages and horses. In those days life could not have been very safe, nor property s. cure. for every window has its iron bars and enormous shutters. 'There could have* been no labour troubles nor union rates when the Spaniards ruled Manila, for Santiago (now the residence*

of the Governor), ami the* very streets, pavements, wall-, all show that lahoui was expended with wondrous prodigality. 'The* old churches have* the* same* story to tell. 'The Cathedral of Manila must cover nearly thre* acres of land, and is a splendid relic of the* old da vs when religion wrought itself into architecture*. From the* beginning of the* entrance* to the completion of the* arch over the* front doors I measured 25 feet of solid masonry; the* larger cornices and mouldings are* still in rich evidence, but many of tin* smaller on.s are yielding to age and *xposure to all weathers. The* interior of the Cathedral is paved throughout its great length with polished marble* si bs; six chapels adorn liie wing-, th,* organ and choir arc* placed in the centre; while* the* high altar and Archbishops throne arc* so adorned and arranged as Io make* the* whole* scene im pressive and interesting. 'Th.* Filippinos in Manila are* desfinctly of two classes; the* thousands of people who live* on the* boats widen adorn the waterways do not impress one* by their cleanliness or beauty. It is said that they will work only when thev ar in need of a few dollars. With dollars in pocket they -it in the sterns of their barges and smoke*, and talk, and chew 1 obacco. as many a ship eager to be unload d has proved Io its co-t. But tin* Filippinos engaged in tin* ollices and shops of the <*it are* a ppa rent ly cleanly in their persons, charming in their man tiers, and I think handsome* in their persons. Of three* native races, Samoans.

Maoris, Filippinos. I would place Filip pinos first for attractive* appearance while* it is a real pleasure* to listen to the sweet silvery tones of their sp cell. Spanish is the* language most commonly spoken by them, anel they have* not for gotten the* courtly manners of their for mer masters. “Senor. I do but speak little* English, but I trust you will find

your way. enjoy yourself, and mav we* meet again." was the reply one* of them made* to a fiiend of mine* when asked for a dir c-tion in the* street. It may seem a little* fulsome* to some*, but it certainly is an improvement upon the grunting expectorating ejaculations with which one is often greeted when seeking for direction from a stranger in the* streets of some cities.

A funeral in Manila is a matter which is bound to attract the attention of the Australian, owing to the fact that it is so different to the practice prevailing amongst us. Instead of black the hearse is a rich cream or white, the plumes are white also, the horses are white, the driver is dressed in white; beside each horse —and there are generally four and often six—walks an attendant dressed in white; there is no other part in the procession; there is no sign of the mourners, there is no officiating priest or clergyman. These meet the hearse with the coffin and pall bearers at the graveside. When the simple but expressive service is almost concluded, at the words, "dust to dust and ashes to ashes,” the widow or husband as the case may be. breaks a bottle of musk over

the collin. There are advantages in such a custom. Along with the old there is a large amount of the new in Manila. Cousin Jonathan is making things ••hum” in his new territory; the breakwater which protects the shipping from the waters of Manila Bay is both vain able ami artistic; the wharves which are being constructed, when complete will make Manila one of the most desirable ports in the East to call at; the protecting banks to the river and the paved canals are as interesting as they are valuable. Railway construction is being proceeded with at a rapid rate, and soon the Island of Luzon will be under the dominion of the iron horse. The electric street ear service is all that one could desire. In the Escolta. the principal business street, some of the finest American shops which could be found anywhere are to be found replete with the world’s comforts and necessaries. In the side streets will be louml all the interesting sights and commodities which are to be found in an Oriental city.

There is a jumbling up of thing' strangely incongruous: looking through a shop containing beautiful and costly silk-ware, just at the back door could be seen a blacksmith carrying on his trade. Every nationality is to be found in those narrow thoroughfares, where one man could block the way with outstretched hands, and things fearfully

made and wonderful are offered for sale in the way of things to eat and wear. There are 25 000 American soldiers maintained in Manila, which means more than can be stated in a sentence. It means a big bill for food supply on the part of Cousin Jonathan, and it is most interesting to know that a lot of the money so expended is coming to Australia. Wherever one goes in Manila tor food, be it borne, hotel, or cafe, he can b? almost certain that ae is eating Australian beef, mutton, pork, or butter. Through the courtesy of the manager of the cold storage works I was shown all over the company’s extensive and up-to-date plant. It is on a scale about equal to the Q.M.E. works at Plnkenba. Brisbane. and most beautifully situated, facing as it does an open park, with walks, drives, and tlower-beds. The out put „f ice from these works is simply enormous: 10.000 gallons of water, first boiled, ami. then frozen every 24 hours; but even 100.000 lbs. of ice per diem are not sufficient for the demand of tin--I’bilippino \ enice. ami tne in < ait. , ■ ~, .... aw iv unsatisfied. But sometimes to go ana; it was with an unmistakeable glow o pride tll!1 t I looked into the enormou- ... 111t .,. i( ., and there saw the ni.les of frozen beef, mutton, and pork from Aus tralia. What a splendid opportunity i-> this for our pastoralists. Gnen tan seasons, and in her stuck alone. Australia should find her richest gold mine. Man U ., has a population of over but

that is only a part of the hungry multitude that has need of our food stuffs. Judging from the eonversat.on of men in the streets and on the boats, the

United States has no easy task in bring ing the Philippine group under pacific rulel and conducting its national an t civic life along the lines of modern pro-

gross. The recent Philippine) chief. Agquinaldo. has received a sop in the way of a high position in the Army service; he is credited with possessing one of

the finest properties in the Philippines and many of his followers have received and are receiving, a considerable amoua. of spoon feeding. But the general

opinion is that it is mistaken kindness, and a policy that will ultimately have to b<* forsaken. The Philippines under the policy of the Spaniard, but they regard Hie \meriean policy as on of weakness. Bossibly of 111,, most interest ing car rides in the are to be had m the suburbs of Manila. While mtntv of the native I are mere shaeklJ many others are most artisticallv bud. al "' l"' ese "' Pleasing appearam--llll 'it' high verandas and many eol mired mat walls and lattices. In som of these areas during the rainv sea,on tiie Whole place is t urne.l into 'an enor moils lagoon, and parents and children may be seen leaving their homes and walking knee or waist deep in water to the places they wish to go. Betorc American oeeupaney Manila was described as u city of saloons and bar,, with indescribably dirtv streets. Many changes have come, but the bars remain, ami in one night one of tin fellow passengers in company with a policeman and a guide. counted 70(1 women of higli-class life in houses ot ill-fame. So 1 ticle Sam has a lot of cleaning work to be done in his newly acquired Venice.