THE WORLD OF FASHION

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXV, Issue 12, 23 September 1905, Page 62

THE WORLD OF FASHION

By

MARGUERITE.)

ABOUT SLEEVES. Now that the spring fashions have firmly established themselves, we are able to note the many changes which have taken place in the world of dress during the last two or three months. Sleeves, for instance, have completely reversed their shape. The pouf has

mounted from wrist to shoulder, all the fulness now coming from the armhole and finishing above the elbow, the sleeve below that point being as tight-fitting as possible. One very marked feature of the moment is the elbow sleeve, which appears on nearly every gown except the tailor-made and the simple morning frock. This does not mean that we are

to go about with bare arms, as this would not be a cheerful prospect, as separate sleeves are to be worn in the house and long gloves out of doors. Gloves are. however, likely to cost us dear this season, owing to the short sleeves. Corsages have quite lost the blouse effect which was so popular last year, and are now shapely and well ad-

justed to the figure, often terminating in a deeply-pointed and beautifully-fit-ting belt. As to skirts, though the fullgathered shape is still much worn the very newest model is the bell or umbrella skirt. This is a revival of a skirt very popular a few years ago. It is .shaped on the hips, and falls in folds to the feet, where it is immensely full.

The skirt looks particularly well carried out in one of the beautifully supple new cloths, of which there is such a variety now on the market. Unquestionably simplicity is the keynote of the present fashions. This does not by any means imply that our frocks are to be severely plain, or lacking in pretty detail. On the contrary, there has never been a time when exquisite embroideries, laces, and trimmings of every description were more in evidence. This season, however, they are placed in their proper position—that is to say, as accessories to the costume they adorn, not as of the greatest importance in themselves. Just at present the general outline of the gown seems to be tli • first consideration. Stiff collars are the latest ideas for shirt blouse suits, embroidered, hemstitched, or scalloped, of linen or pique. Frilled collars and cuffs are one of the season’s fancies, and most charming they look worn with a simple muslin or lawn blouse, on a neck not too stout or short. They have a tendency to make the neck look shorter than it really is, and wider withal. Their varieties are many and their possibilities are endless. A high stock of canary-coloured taffetas, worn with a pretty, soft, fluffy, lacy waistcoat, wound round the throat, high under a little overhanging, pretty, lacy collar, then knotted, and the ends tucked down between the crossing folds of the waistcoat, spreading out as they go to show one light spray of hand-painted flowers, light brown and golden orchids on a long stem. Another stock has ends of the same brocaded with a velvet floral spray, and also with the ends worked in broderie Anglaise. Another type of tie or scarf is in eoarse meshed net, with painted silk application edged with the minutest Valenciennes frills imaginable, and fringed with tiny multi-coloured bebe chine ribbons in little loops and knots. The crepe de chine scarfs of a few years baek tie so prettily in all sorts of knots and bows, and pull down through a waistband. Something new in girdles is the flowered ribbon girdle to wear with white. A dark girdle, by the bye, is never to be worn with your white blouse, since it gives the waist a cut-off look. Instead choose a white girdle that matches the blouse, and lengthens the waist line.