THE WORLD OF FASHION

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXIV, Issue 21, 27 May 1905, Page 62

THE WORLD OF FASHION

(By

MARGUERITE.)

EVENING FROCKS FOR GIRLS. This week I am going to write chiefly for the debutante and young people in <»<‘iieral. tor the dancing season is near at hand. It is a matter of immense importance that the debutante’s frock should be a great success, for who does not remember her first ball frock and the momentous occasion on which it was worn! Nowadays there is so much variation and absence of monotony about fashion that we should have no difficulty in getting suited. I think I wrote some time ago about the popularity of the white muslin evenin" dress among distinguished dresses, and really there is but little difference between the beautiful cam brie petticoat and the skirt of the muslin evening frock, which is welcome news to the lovers of dainty lingerie. Simple as it may appear it shows a great deal of hand-stitchery and entredetix of fine lace outlined with killings of narrow Valenciennes. When dainty and fresh nothing is more becoming than this muslin frock to the young woman. Nearly all muslin gowns when cut decollete are made on very simple lines. Fichu effects in lace and muslin are admirable, and the high-waisted sash or ceinture seems to give the necessary finish and touch of colour. But white is not the only muslin used, for pale blues, pale pinks, and even flowered effects are in vogue. To my mind, the prettiest examples are the genuine French cambrics or Indian muslin of the finest description, daintily stitched and tucked and often finished with a deep tucker of lace softening the decolletage. Nearlv all these frocks have the elbow sleeve sometimes consisting of a double puff tied up with ribbons.

Many women are wearing the "Empire” evening frock, and this will be one of the features of winter fashions. A charming model I have lately seen has a semi-fitting underdress of pale green satin-inessaline. and over this a loose, flowing robe of cream mousseline de soie embroidered with beetles' wings and edged with wonderful Brussels applique. An extremely pretty gown which seems a compromise between the Greek and the "Empire” styles, has a tightfitting. shortwaisted bodiee of cream satin and a “princess” underdress of the same fabric veiled with crepe de chine having a deep Greek pattern of old gold embroidery round the sleeves and at the hem. held up on the shoul ders by two enormous gold ornaments and confined at the waist by a girdle of gold.

Some of the flowered silk muslins form quaint picture garments, especially when looped up in pannier fashion on the hips, finished with an old-fash-ioned fichu and muslin tucker. There is a great deal of making in the deep band which is the fitting accompaniment to such a frock, and it is generally composed of taffeta or velvet. A peculiar pea-green shade will be very much in favour for many of the eighteenth century frocks.

The Princess gown is certainly coming in. I have had a glimpse of a very beautiful example in the palest shade of pastel blue cloth, fastening up the back, the low decolletage being finished with a tucker of fine Valenciennes lace and an enormous loop of pale ciel blue velvet. There is a slight fulness on the hips, and any idea of hardness is dispelled by the beauty and picturesqueness of the sleeve which consists of soft Valenciennes puffings to the elbow and quantities of mauve chiffon strands. This mixture of pale pastel blue and mauve is just now much in favour with a famous Parisian firm.

THE VELVET BLOUSE. In consequence of the popularity of brown, many attractive brown blouses are being made this winter. A soft silk blouse in one of the copper or bronze shades, hand-embroidered in selfcolour, and relieved at the throat by a touch of white or a lace cravat, is very effective worn with a brown skirt in harmonising tone.

The velvet blouse, simple or elaborate. as occasion may require, is very much worn. Strapped in taffeta or cloth or braided, it looks both warm and smart for the coat and skirt costumes,

and has the advantage of being particularly becoming. Hand embroidery appears upon the velvet blouse as elsewhere, but it need not be of a costly sort. One model blouse in bronze brown velvet, intended for wear with a tailored skirt and redingote of brown broad cloth, is trimmed in bands of white broad-cloth, thickly sewn with French knots in brown silk, and edged by a barely visible line of gold; and another velvet blouse—this time in a light dove grey — has grey cloth bands, cuffs, and a flat collar below a shallow guimpe of creamy lace.