THE WORLD OF FASHION

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXIV, Issue 11, 18 March 1905, Page 62

THE WORLD OF FASHION

(By

MARGUERITE.

THE WEDDING GOWN. BRIDAL GOWNS AKE NOW MADE OE SOFT FABRICS. This season’s styles and fabrics are of a nature to lend themselves delightfully to the null ing up of wedding effects, and although tradition will always have something to sax in the matter infinite novelty and variety distinguish many of the smart wedding gowns this year. Bridesmaids’ frocks, too. are things of special grace and beauty. Bride gowns, like all other portions of the wardrobe, show the prevailing f»ncy tor soft, pliable fabrics. That standard favourite of former times—stiff, white satin is now a thing of the p. st. The all-important gown is still of satin, but quite different from the oldtime fabric. There is the delightful Liberty weave, lustrous, flexible ami very light of weight. But even the light Lib. Tty has l>een pronounced too heavy by m ny of the best designers. To meet this prejudice, satins softer and lighter still have been produced. There is a new weave known as Charmeuse. which suggests the airiest of

gauze, although preserving the opaque sheen of satin proper. Nlessaline satin is another new arrival which is meeting with considerable success. It is less rich-looking than the Liberty, but this loss is satisfactorily m. de up by an in crease in suppleness and fineness. There are a number of varieties in satin finishes, in addition to the many Louisines. also popular for weddi ig gown materials. Another wide range of choice lies among the crepes. Almost everything in this class is used and fashionably used, this year. Beginning with the ordinary crepe de Chine, we end the lengthy sc. le with satin fin'shed chiffon crepe, which makes a beautiful bridal costume. Eolienne and silk voiles of many kinds are frequently made up for wedding day purposes. They certainly h ve one great advantage over many of the more costly materials—that of durability and service. With the new weaves of satin there has come about a great change in bridal fashions. Stiffness and austerity are no longer suggested to the mind by the mere name of the shimmering materials. Bridal gowns are gauged. tucked.

flounced. puffed and trimmed with the most intricate forms of handwork, and are made up with the softest of lace, the filmiest of chiffons. It is not. of course, the deadly white tint in satin that the bride of this season wears. She chooses cream, ivory, < r one of the several shadings of white—according to her type and colouring. EFFEt Tl\ E SIMPLICITY. The light trimmings give a frou-frou effect, which is becoming to all reasonably slender women. Instead of the stiff' neckband rising to the level of the ears, a transparent collar, cool-looking, and infinitely more comfortable, is preferred. There are several other approved finishes for the neck. The Dutch collar with its slight decolletage is not barred from the wedding bodice. The “surplice” style is also liked by a few who can stand its somewhat trying shape. The collarless blouse, too. has its followers. Naturally, the richness ami elaboration marking all classes of dress this year find an echo in the fashionable wedding frock. But. although unlimited intricacy of detail is permissible, greatest care must be taken to preserve the

appropriate and customary simplicity of effect. Many of the best dressui kers. fearful of inappropriate, elaboration, do not advise any very complicated handwork for toilettes destined for this purpose. They advise the choice of a really beautiful material, the greatest pains ami skill in obtaining the proper line, with a little trimming of unimpeach, ble quality. The outlines and general effect of the frock rather than its details form the important consideration.

Here is a simple and becoming model for a costume for a young girl of 14 to IG years of age. which could be made up in linen or any kind of washing material, whilst it is equally well suited to serge, hopsack, or thin flaked tweeds, with a piping of a contrasting colour to edge the strapping. The eoat is smart but quite simple, and has an inverted pleat on each side of the front and back. The little shoulder-cape is of single material, edged with strapping, whilst the neck-part is finished off with a mitred stole-piece edged to correspond, and though shown open, is made to fasten in the centre. As to the skirt, this is quite a simple five-gored one. and the whole costume will require about 51 yards of 44 inch, or SI yards of 30-inch material.

SOFT WHITE MOUSSELINE DRESS, WITH IX' RI STATIOXS OF EM BROIDERY AND LACE. A pretty model for a young lady’s gown is made of white muslin. The simple little blouse corsage has a shallow yoke of Irish crochet over chiffon, to which the blouse is gauged, and two plisse rutiles, edged with Valenciennes, decorate the shoulders. The elbow sleeves are simply made of the same ruffles, and the blouse droops into a fitted girdle of ribbon, which is cleverly made upon a feather-bone foundation. IX SILK MOUSSELINE. The skirt is gauged to the waistband, and three deep flounces, closely knifeplaited, are edged with Valenciennes, the upper one being headed with a ruche. A band of princess haircloth is deftly inserted in the drop skirt, and covered with laee-edged ruffles to support the outer skirt.

The flounced skirt is more suited to Ihe tall, slender girl: to the short girl, unless very thin, it will give the effect of ungraceful short lines.) Very pretty are the gowns made throughout of narrow ruffles about four inches in width, of lawn, finished with the \ alenciennes lace edge. The sleeves can be made in the same way, the ruffles being attached to a puff underneath, and finished with broad cuffs made of narrow lace edging. In silk mousseline nothing is prettier than an accordion-plaited gown. The soft clinging skirt—Haring only at the feet—is sure to look attractive on the platform. The pleated skirts, with bands of lace and embroidered insertion in wide, tlaring effect round the feet, are also suit.ihie to girlish figures. The Hare is produced by the attached ilounce. the joining of which to the skirt itself is hidden under the insertion.