THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXIII, Issue VII, 13 August 1904, Page 62

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

All the new eoats are short, whether made of silk, cloth, velvet, or serge. The dainty little white or fawn cloth coats, just long enough to hide the waist and keep the lungs warm, are reappearing this season. They have collars or yokes, or both, of beautiful embroideries, in which faint tones of colour are introduced, especially green, and many of them have lace introduced in various ways, and more particularly—alas!—on the sleeves. A good, workmanlike, yet

rich and handsome, coat of the kind is white cloth lined with white silk and embroidered on the yoke in a delicatelytinted Roumanian design. Above this is a band of black velvet, from which rises a collar of the cloth, and the sleeves, not over full, are stitched down the backs of the arms and gathered into a black velvet band with a cloth band appearing beyond it. A noticeable feature of the fashions of the coming season is the return, with re-

newed ardour, to the bolero in various shapes and forms. It is, of course, very short, as we still prefer to define the

waist line with a corselet band. Most of these boleros will show a tight waistcoat of embroidered cloth with a muslin cravat and frills. The wreath for evening, I think, is charming, and has taken another lease of life. Composed of green and silver ivyleaves, it is particularly becoming to a certain style of head. Wreaths of tiny

Pompadour roses are also worn, and in many cases a fillet of gold or a jewelled Juliet cap makes a charming headdress. I have also observed that a large Alsatian bow of black velvet can be worn on the hair with great effect. In fact, ”■ ’ seems to be no hard-and-fast rule where the coiffure is concerned. The aigrette plays a not unimportant part, sometimes plain and sometimes jewelled. I always think, however, that the aigrette is suited only to a small head and piquant style of face, for it is so apt to distort the shape. There is a certain style of coiffure which looks charming with big flat roses on each side of the head, a la Marie Tempest, but all these details are matters of individual taste. Heads as a general rule, however, are decorated, and much of the art nouveau j o wellery is worn. What is still more charming is the revival of the old Spanish comb in real tortoiseshell, sometimes inlaid with gold or silver. But anything beautiful is nearly always good. A return to the wearing of sequins is noticed, but they are sequins of exceptional size and beauty, and nothing poor in the way of dress will be tolerated. This is also the case with paillettes: if you are going to appear in spangles at all you must be beautifully and plentifully bespangled—in fact, your dress must be a shimmering, glittering mass, preferably of jet, enhanced by the lightness of ehiffon or tulle, or the beauty of black chiffon-velours. Black, with a touch of colour, is seldom if ever to be tolerated. Blaek of the blackest, however, with all its delicious lights and shades, is beautiful. Even dull blacks have a chic all their own. One of the most successful and favourite ball frocks of the winter season is blaek tulle arranged with buckings and gaugings innumerable. Certainly tulle is rather an extravagant fabric for a ball frock, but its lightness will commend it to dancers; while the treatment of tulle bv tuckings and gaugings renders it firmer wear. A verv important feature of every evening "frock is the band. Sleeves can be as voluminous as vou like, and somehow. T think, it is the construction of the sleeve that makes or mars the success of the evening froek of the hour. Hanging wing sleeves made of any amount of aeeordion-nleating are extremely graceful, the rest of the bodice seeming to consist of a bertha or fichu held together by the tight-fitting corselet band. Skirts in thin fabrics are very voluminous about the feet. T think the majority of evening skirts hang better when unlined and worn over a trained petticoat. This, after all. is an economical fashion, for when nronerlv made and shaped these petticoats can do duty on many occasions.

Several blouses have been illustrated of late in this column, but as these are garments in which the variety is infinite,

I venture to present another for your edification. This blouse or bodice is arranged with two folds on each side of the wide boxpleat—a feature of the newest styles—which give it the lengthened shoulder ef feet now so much sought after. These folds are simply laid on and stitched to a perfectly plain blouse foundation, and so add very little to the making; they are in the sketch piped with a darker colour, which gives a decided touch of

smartness to the bodice, but is quite optional. The box-pleat is sloped off to the waist, and is also piped and further adorned with groups of three small buttons. Any of the new spring goods, either plain, striped, or spotted, may be used for this blouse, and a very charming new material is that known as satin laine. which is sold in a great variety of colourings and designs. About 31 yards will be needed for this blouse.