Mountaineering on the West Coast

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXI, Issue XX, 14 November 1903, Page 26

Mountaineering on the West Coast

The Alpine country of the South Island of New Zealand has attracted the attention of English and Continental climbers for many years past, resulting in a considerable number visiting the Hermitage annually. Prominent amongst these in the past have been the Revs. Green, E. A. Fitzgerald (accompanied by M. Zurbriggen), and Malcolm Ross. As a result of this interest shown by outsiders in our glorious Alpine country. many young New Zealanders have become ardent mountain climbers, and what is after all one of the noblest kinds of sport, promises to take firm hold of the present and coming generation. When it was known that Mr E. A. Fitzgerald. accompanied by M. Zurbriggen, the chief of Alpine guides, was coming to New Zealand to climb Mount Cook, three young New Zealanders decided, if possible, to forestall him. In this they succeeded, and the complete ascent of Mount Cook was made for the first time on Christmas Day of 1894. by Messrs T. C. Fyfe. C. Graham, and I. Clark (at present senior guide at the Hermitage), 1 mention this because only 12 months ago, in the Christmas number of one of your contemporaries, it was given forth to the world that E. A. Fitzgerald was the first to complete the ascent of Mount Cook. Mr Fitzgerald never attempted it. the fact that he was too late to be first, seemed to have hurt his feelings. The second ascent was made by Zurbriggen alone on March 14. 1895. since then Mount Cook has been uuconqttered, although a number of attempts have been made. In consequence of the many conveniences ottered to tourists at the Hermitage and in the Tasman Valley, most of the Alpine work has been done from there as headquarters, so that it is not surprising to hear the New Zealand Alps compared somewhat unfavourably with those of Switzerland. In the first annual report of the Tourist Traffic Department (1902), the impressions of Dr. Heims, a Swiss geologist, are given. He states, "The European mountains form a contrast by reason of the beautiful and immensely varied colours of the flowers in the meadows, that make the slopes and the valleys so delightful: here in New Zealand the meadows and downs are yellow with tussock grass, till we search the level almost of the glaciers, and there the flowers that meet the eye are nearly all white.” This is quite true of the eastern aspect of the great mountain range, hut it seems strange that so few people realize that there is another and an absolutely different aspect from the western side. Here access to the high mountain ranges is through magnificent forests, with a marvellous undergrowth of moss and fernery, past beautiful woodland

lakes, up wooded and rocky ravines, until an elevation of over 5000 feet is reached. Then the more stunted growth commences, and Alpine Howers of great variety abound until the permanent snowline is reached. The glaciers, much more beautiful and interesting than those on the Eastern side, pass down for miles in these heav-

ily wooded ravines abounding in water falls, until the end a few hundred feet above sea level. Access to these glaciers is gained either on foot or horseback, through charming lanes and tracks, surrounded by dense fern and timber growth, which extends to within a few feet of the ice. Camping out up to a level of 5500 feet is delightful, there being abundant sup-

plies of wood and water at that height. At present there are comfortable huts at the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers, and in the Hokitika and Whitcomhe Valleys with horse tracks leading up to them, also a fair bush track up the Copeland Valley, leading up to Fitzgerald's Pass, and thence to the Hermitage. Access from the coast to these hut-

and tracks is at present good, and ini Droving year by year, and before long, with some assistance from the Tourist Traffic Department. Westland promises to Ih-coiik the Alpine Climliers' Paradise. For some account of mountaineering in Westland, readers are recommended to get Harper’s ' Pioneer Work in the NewZealand Alps.”