THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXI, Issue IX, 29 August 1903, Page 642

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.

Just now the tea or coffee coat is demanding a great deal of attention. It is generally composed of lace, sometimes mixed with spotted net and the becoming finish of frou-frouing chiffon or crepe de chine. Now, these jackets lend themselves most satisfactorily to the utilisation of sale remnants of lace—piece lace, insertions, edgings, and flounces can all be used; and, best of all, they need not exactly match, provided they are of the same tone and the same make. I think one must be permitted a little license in using remnants.

A short length of Oriental satin or crepe de chine is an excellent foundation on which to hang the tea jacket, which can be short, half or three-quar-ter length, as the remnant permits. The, eoat, which is very short behind and a little longer in front, is remarkably becoming. with a huge eape collar finished in front with a large chon. It is astonishing the number of uses these coats can be put to. They were originally intended for five o’clock wear, but they are equally charming for a quiet dinner, and for placing on the shoulders, in a degage manner, over a

decollete frock, forming an excellent wrap for a theatre. The chief point about this garment is that the lace should be good. I do not mean, of necessity, real laee (the real laee coat is a thing to dream of), but excellent imitations, such as were rife among the bargains at the sales. Charming, too, is the tea coat made of graduated frills of accordion-pleated chiffon, finished with a collar of old laee.

Lace is as popular as ever, and appears on every article of dress. There are bewitching little eoffee eoats made of fine or coarse laee, or even of the two

intermingled, while every form of blouse shows lace employed either in motifs or in the form of insertion, interspersed with small fine tucks. Hats have their wide brims swathed and softened with folds of delicate lace, and toques of fragile tulle show motifs of contrasting laee in either black, white or string colour. I have seen some very lovely garments, half cape, half eoat. made out of treasured heirlooms in the shape of shawls, which up to hitherto it had been difficult to put to practical use without the misfortune of cutting them, which, of course, reduces them seriously, in value.

Indeed their number is legion. It is quite remarkable the number of models from which we have to choose. Dainty blouses surround us on all sides, both upon the figures of our friends and in every shop window we pass. Quite the newest arrangement is the lattice work of straps laid over a fairly handsome material and finished right round the figure with a full frill of laee. Indeed, I can fancy this over-strapping and laee frill being arranged to be removed, so as to be worn over more than ona bodice. Such lattice work can be made of satin, velvet, or even fine cloth stitched; or arranged in either white or black velvet it is charmingly pretty, especially if the laee frill is fashioned of some very fine make of ecru laee, the lattice end being caught on to the ficelle with small cut steel studs. The velvet straps are repeated over the upper part of the arm, and a full frill of lace must be arranged inside the bell sleeve. ® ® ® The affection with which we have for the last two or three years regarded all kinds of tucks now shows signs of a transference to gathers, especially w’here very thin materials are concerned. These latter promise to be in high favour as the summer comes on, canvas,

mousseline de soie, soft silk, etc., being already on view in endless variety. Most of these will make up delightfully into gathered models, both in the shape of dresses and blouses, one of which, fresh from Paris, is here illustrated. It was carried out in a soft biscuit shade of crepe de chine, gathered in many rows both baek and front, and about half way down the upper arm, the yoke was made of alternate rows of eream satin and herring-bone work, while the

deep, pointed cuffs, armlets and shoulder straps were of biscuit- coloured velvet, embroidered in a handsome conventional flower design in shades of green and rose pink. The whole was dainty in the extreme., and could, with a little patience, be carried out at home.