THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXX, Issue XIX, 9 May 1903, Page 1334

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

I am going to reserve this article chiefly for young folk*. an<i to turn again to the consideration of fancy dress. In choosing a fancy costume a great deal depends upon one’< colouring, and it <hould be remembered that different |*eriods suit different people. It is nearly always becoming to wear the hair poudre. and such a wig can be hired at a small cost. It is quite permissible to attend a fancy dress dance in an ordin ary evening frock if you go poudre. though it is better, of course, to have the costume as much in accordance as possible Any pretty brocade or gorgeous even ing frock can easily, with the addition of a powdered wig. be made to represent the toilette of a “Lady of the French Court”—always a bewitching and elegant dame The peasants’ dresses of various countries are popular with young people, and as a rule they are very inexpensive. A fair, pretty girl can look charming dressed as a Norwegian peasant, with a short velveteen skirt and a high belt, arranged with a muslin chemisette. A dark beauty, on the contrary, looks her best as a gipsy, with dishevelled hxks adorned with coins of all kinds. A strii*ed red and yellow petticoat makes a most effective skirt, while a might blouse and sash, and any num* *»cr of bead chains and coins will com •dele the costume. The same style of beauty may also, with advantage, be dressed to represent a Bulgarian peasant, nr a daughter of Erin: she <-an. in fact, adopt any Span-

ish. Italian, or Oriental dress she may fancy.

Then there are quite as many easy characters for the fair girl. such as the peasants of any of the Northern countries in Europe, a “Snow Queen.” a “Canadian Beauty,” “Marguerite.” “Dawn.” “Summer.” etc. For children’s parties the Kate Greenaway characters are always fascinating. But. as I have said before, for fancy dress dinners and dances for the grown ups I think the historical characters are most charming. The period of the three Louis is popular, and so is the Elizabethan costume: while Marie Stuart and ladies of that era are favourites, closely resembling the fashions of the French Court. The Georgian period is not. perhaps, so pretty, though there were famous ladies in those days. ® ® P FRENCH GREY CLOTH COAT WITH AZURE BLUE VELVET RELIEF \ND HEAVY ROPE STITCH ERY. There are some wonderfully ornate coats made for the early winter days. The one sketch ed will serve as a very fair specimen of the unique characteristics bestowed upon all. It is a pearl-grey cloth wrap, stitched very heavily upon the shoulder and sleeves with so-called rose silk and trimmed down the turnedhack fronts with embroidery done round lozenges of azure velvet, broken across at intervals by velvet-striped tabs. The grey cloth hat matches, and has a binding of blue velvet and blue embroideries beneath. To adorn it a manufactured wing showing jay blue colouring is p-.it on at one side.

It will be a very tweedy winter. Thera ate tweeds and tweeds. A tweed usual’v

suggests a rough and tumble material ot depressing colour (if colour at all) assuming an aggressively tailor-made

attitude. Not so. though, the tweed of this winter. It is of beautifully finished. light, soft texture, of endless pretty tints, and there will be nothing aggressive about it. Stronger makes of lace will be used with these tweeds as with cloth, and the lace collars are extended to the depth of a shoulder eape for wearing over cloth, or tweed walking gowns, making a very picturesque finish. One of these we have illustrated in this figure. finished bv a chon of black velvet. and the same sketch also shows the new waistbelt. The waist-tie. or belt, of late has become smaller and "beautifully less.” till it has been an “unconsidered trifle” hardly worth recording There is a move now. however, towards deep waistbelts. They are made of soft material drawn into a long, narrow buckle, in the centre of front, which dips down in a point. At the back the order is reversed—the bottom being straight across the waist, the top rising to a point in centre. These new belts need a lot of making. They must b’ most carefully fitted well whaleboned, and in fact form quite little corslets. Our sketch clearly indicates this belt, and a full shirt or blouse-bodice pooching slightlv over it.

Tlie airy piece <>l millinery in this column is black and white not the sole mediums at the artist’s command would show colours like those of a butterflv. one of those lovely blue butterflies that revel in the sunshine of the south. It is made of stiffened blue lace embroidered in blues with the finest floss silk, and here and there set with a dazzling crystal or a blue jewel that itni-

This is in fur, the sole ornament being a peacock's feather, held by a gold and pearl carboehon or boss.

tates a sapphire. The Paradise plume at the side is a pure white one. Next to this model is a black tulle boat-shaped toque draped with a black lace veil that is lifted in front to show a vivid green wealth of leafage sprouting from a coronal of green olivines, of course, imitations only of that now favourite gem. Everything depends, after the freshness and richness of the materials used,, upon the way in which the toque fits.