THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXX, Issue VII, 14 February 1903, Page 482

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

Muslins ure so extraordinarily tempting at the summer sales, both as regards designs and prices, that most of us have fallen ••ietims to obtaining lengths thereof. If you are in rhi.iW as to what to do with your muslin cngth, let mt advise you to make it into a tea-gown. The |K>ssibilities of a muslin tea-gown are great, provided you have some lace collars and some pretty sashes by you. Simplicity is the keynote of success in a muslin tea-gown, and after all if we buy these lengths cheaply at the sales we don’t want to expend much on making them up. With a good pattern of an Empire tea-gown and some knowledge of the art of cutting, the amateur should be able to produce an effective costume. liemember that there is a great deal of art in the draping of a muslin teagown. To get a good effect you must spend an hour or two before the glass, and do it yourself. A narrow double wafteau at the back is a pretty break to the broad sash that ties over the bust on the Empire tea-gown, and unless you have a very good neck you will find a collar more becoming than the regulation lines of an Empire frock. But these are details you will be better able to decide yourself. No one should lay down hard and fast rules regarding the construction of a tea-gown. Another good idea for a tea-gown is to utilise the skirts of two old white satin ball dresses. These can be unpicked and sent to the friendly cleaner, war. by the way, seems to get more efficient at this work every day. The Empire sash below the bust line will hide the join in the bodice and skirt, and may be of two or more colours, preferably of some soft fabric or wide embroidery. The real Empire tea-gown has only small puffs for sleeves, hut T think most of us like our arms covered for general everynight wear.

Nowadays sleeves are easy to manipulate. You can guage them ■>«■ the elbow and use any contrasting material to form the puff underneath. Unless the fabric of which your tea-gown is composed be very flimsy it is needless to line it. Certainly our need not line your cleaned satin, and this does away with a great deal of expense. Now, surely. I have given you an insight into the intricacies of home dressmaking! Another way of using up some of our old past season’s frocks is to have them cleaned and used as under-dresses for tea-gowns. These make charming

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foundations with the coats or stoles of lace or Indian embroidery which are so popular.

This is a very popular style of suit for a small boy’s wear when leaving the pettieoat stage. It is, too, so very simple to make, and is suited to all kinds of materials, both for in and outdoor wear, that its popularity is not remarkable. I have this week sketched it more for the latter purpose, and to be made up in brown or tan corduroy velvet-

MARGUERITE.)

should be interlined with French canvas, which last also applies to the belt, this being kept in plac? on the coat by narrow straps of the material sewn on at each underarm seam. The small knickers are also very simple to make up. and require no lining, removable washing ones being best for laundry purposes. About four and a quarter yards of 27-ineh material will he required.

The pretty blouse depicted is made of black spotted net over white silk, trimmed and appliqued with lace, while a large bow and ends of pink silk are arranged as a finish to the bodice. The sleeves which terminate just below the elbow are finished by a deep full frill of net trimmed at the lower edge with an applique of the creamy lace. A bodice made in this style could be worn with an

een, though it is equally well suited to cloth of the same shade, or in dark green. If for indoor wear it could be made of holland or drill and thus form a nice overall suit. Large collars of white linen or frilled silk give a very nice finish to these little suits, and if of the latter are quite easily made up got up at home. As it is intended for an outdoor suit, I have added the pattern of a little Tam-o’-Shanter, which will come in admirably for using up the small pieces that may he left, and velveteen, owing to the up and down, always cuts more to waste than cloth. The cap is made in sections, and will require careful joining and pressing. The crown is finished off with a button of the material, which is made over a mould. The cap must be lined, but the lining need not be made in sections if time be very limited. The coat portion is very simple, the back being seamless; it requires lining, unless very thick cloth be used. The collar is of double material, and

come further up the back than the front. Of course, a jetted or sequined overdress old black satin skirt, the waist being finished by a broad pink satin ribbon folded so as to come narrow in front, while at the back a smart bow is arranged with two long ends falling to a few inches of the hem of the skirt. A very good plan for smartening up an old gown is to arrange a series of narrow net fitlls round the hem, making these is more easily adjusted and looks hand-

sonier, but it is likewise mueh more expensive—a matter for serious consideration to many. A handsome chenille fringe is also considered very modish, while more strikingly beautiful are those

of jet, pearl, or iridescent beads arranged round the decolletage and on the skirt. Another pref tv style for an evening gown is to have a simulated panel down the front < f the Shirt, witli looped up scarves or draperies across the front, each edged with a drooping fringe. Pearl tassels make a pretty finish to a white or pale cream-coloured toilette.

The cosy dressing gown sketched is of a simple design, and yet is sufficiently ornamental to allow of it making its appearance at the breakfast table if necessary. It is made in a warm crimson flannel, the fichu and frills at the sleeves being of cream washing silk, the latter being finished at the outer edge with a hem-stitched border, and only tucked firmly into place, so that they are easilydetached when they require washing. The fullness at the waist is confined by a broad satin ribbon which is passed round the waist and tied in a bow in front. The edge of the skirt is made with a frill of the flannel itself as a finish. Only the bodice, which has some pretensions to fit, is lined, the lining stopping short a few inches below- the waist. About ten yards of flannel are required for its manufacture, together with three yards of washing silk for the fichu, etc., and two and a half yards of satin ribbon to allow of a sufficiently full bow and ends. With the long and probably very cold winter before us a gown like this would be found invaluable, and it is best to take time by the forelock and provide against contingencies by using the bright days still remaining in preparing for the dull ones to follow.

The blouse illustrated is of a simple, yet smart and fashionable style, which recommends itself for early autumn wear. It is made with three box pleats down the front, after the principle of a Norfolk coat, while the fullness of the sleeves, which is confined by tucks at the upper part of the arms, falls freely at the lower in the manner so much affected at present. The throat and wrists are finished by dainty turn-over collar and cutis of lace, and a dainty bow of silk and ribbon band en suite give the finishing touches. A blouse in one of the Paisley patterned materials with blue as the prevailing colour would look well with a collar and cuffs of embroidery- and the bow and band of bright emerald green ribbon, 'lhe contrast between green and blue is always a popular one, and seems particularly so at present, as many of the smartest gowns and most fashionable bits of millinery are expressed in these shades. Metallic looking green and blue wings trim green or blue straw hats with charming effect. The wings are placed towards the back of the hat with the tips pointing downwards, or are placed on the outside of the up-turned brims of the tricorn hats. This way of arranging them is generally becoming, and gives a look of width to the face.

Flannelle de sole is a true friend to the chilly. In appearance it is very handsome—in fact, it looks exactly like a rich satin. Possibly it is our old acquaintance, Homan satin sheeting, resuscitated under a new name. At any rate, it is glossy, drapes exquisitely, and is deliciously warm and cosy. A blouse or tea gown it develops equally well, and it is sold in the most delightful colours, such as cream, turquoise-blue, rose-pink, and pale heliotrope. Gauze, if mounted upon silk. is quite warm enough for a convales-

cent’s blouse for evening wear, and as it is quite fashionable now to appear in a long-sleeved and high-neck-ed gown at night, it need be no hardship to be obliged to do so. There is a new and beautiful shaded gauze to be bought in delicate rose pink, deepening to damask, and this gauze it is that is suggested for the materialisation of the blouse shown in this sketch. The yoke and deep cuffs are to be of lace or lightlypatterned antique pompadour brocade, but the gauze, be it urged again, must be mounted upon a silk slip for the sake of warmth.