THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIX, Issue XX, 15 November 1902, Page 1278

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

THE POPULARITY OF THE BUTTON. To >ay that there is a rage for buttons in Paris at the present moment is to speak in mild terms of the popular eraze for this novelty. Indeed, looking at many of the new dresses one arrives at the conclusion that the button can never come amiss except when it is for use! Such are the vagaries of Fashion that the button, which in itself is meant for use. must not now have a useful purp se. As an ornament it is the idol of the hour, and very dainty indeed are some of the newest buttons to be seen on the early autumn gowns. In the top sketch of the -first column is a very smart dress of Dale blue linen, quaintly strapped on both bolero and skirt. At the point of every strap are three infinitesimal burtons; they are of gilt, and brightly burnished. Below, in the first column, there is a dress of soft mastic cloth which ha-s also fallen under the sway of the button: :but this time it is larger, flatter, and covered in s Ik exactly matching the shade of the cl th.

I’his summer a great success has been made with scouring cloth, an ivory white fabric, inclining u wards • lust brown, for sea-going suits, and other flannels of a thick, rough kind arc being freely used in browns the new crimson red. and a bright yet not garish green. The sketched yachting dress is made of cream scouring cloth, with hand wrought trimmings of black and crimson braid and crimson stitching upon the hip yoke and rhe tiers of flounces. I'he bodice s designed to match, and is worn with a scarlet handkerchief, knotted beneath the collar. Blue serge with white ami crimson embellishments would look well, and a gown in three different blues—maine.Sevres and turquoise—is a sure success if skilfully carried out. Of whatsoever fabric and colour the gown is made the cap is also, with a crown rim trimmed to match the frock's adornment. For fair weather short crmse>. yachting gowns are being made t > touch the deck, and own the advantage in smart feminine estimations of thus permitting the wearing of a pretty underskirt. The skirt should match .-••me item of colour in '.he trimnjng

used upon the dress. Were crimson to figure in t\e scheme there would be a crimson skirt, all ruffles, but no lace, with a punched-out embroidered pattern above an edging of hemstitching. and were the costume to be one of trip-e blues, a t «irqm»ise-blue skirt would be ordered. A TH I X LOXG LI .XK. Then there is another use for the mu ton. and that is when it ornaments the back seam of a skirt. A good example of this is shown in the large sketch on the opposite page. The coat has a simulated fastening, while the same effect is visible on the skirt, 'nd a long line of buttons extends from the back of the neck to the hem of th ‘ skirt. This gown was of white cloth, and strangely enough, the buttons were covered with black velvet, of which material was the short sash. THE ÜBIQUITOUS BOW. The sketches this week demonstrate the popularity of another fashion, and that is the black velvet bow.either with or without ends, which ornaments the back of everv fashionable hat at the present moment. The sailer hat with turned-up brim with its black velvet bow at the back and long end" to the waist suits only the verv voting and very chic wearer. But the flat hat. with wide flat crown encircled by a narrow velvet band, tilted up at the back by a deep bandeau ornamented with a somewhat aggressive bow. suits nearly everyone. There is a great deal in the set of these bows. A small one of narrow velvet apparently has no meaning, but given a wide bow with a crossover knot tied tightly to give it an .iggressivc apircarance it will look extremely well.

From the severely plain chapeau we turn to the one of lace and flowers, and show a pretty model in the figure of creamy lace and nasturtiums with their leaves, trails of b th flowers and lace falling over the hair at the back.

A black bow is to become a feature in fashionlaiid, and we shall, pro tem,

all be wearing either black neckties or revealing a black chon on some liortion of our toiletie. This is evident on the hat accompanying the smart blouse sketched in the figure. There is a fancy just now for tiny buttons as decoration, and they will here be noted in a short row down each of the three front box pleats, and in sets of four on the picturesque sleeves. The blouse itself is made in reseda silkwith inlets (alternating the box pleats) of accordioned white chiffon and under-sleeves of the same; the tiny buttons are gold, and the waist-tie black velvet with a gold buckle.

A fiat has gone forth—and a most sensible one too—that the linen, canvas, or cambric grown is to be made with a short skirt. This is seen in this figure, which deals with a pretty morning gown for general wear, of holland, which is again being received with favour. The shortened skirt has several rows of piping from the hem upwards, terminating in a band of

white linen lace. The bodice is also trimmed with insertions of same and finished by a broad square collar of it.

\ stock and ehou of black satin completes the throat. Quaker's grey is obtaining- greatly in Paris, and in London too and runs biscuit and putty colour closely for honours.

The designs in blouse bodices are legion indeed. This figure introduces an extremely nretty model in the form of a very smart little bolero worn over a white satin shirt covered with ecru lace. The petite bolero is of fine biscuit cloth with insertions of ecru and gold lace. It is caught together at the bust by a tie of blacksatin which conies from under the shoulder collar; and a waist tie of the same finishes the shirt.

Every young girl should posses* a dainty lounging robe, in which to rest after a -busy day. and I think rhe Rosa house wrapper will surely appeal to those in search of an idea for such a garment. It may be fashioned from innumerable fabrics, and if our girl reader is elever with her needle—and I hope she is—an inexpensive material can be made exceedingly attractive by her dainty ‘needlework. The full skirt is gathered to the Empire waist, and a wide, applied

plait down the middle of the frou* flares slightly near the lower edge and conceals the closing at the upper left side.

The fancy shaped collar gives breadth to the shoulders, but it may be omitted if less elaboration is desired. The sleeves are of the twoseamed bishop style, and the waist is provided with a lining. Dainty, wprigged lawn, chailie or cashmere will give pleasing results. When of rose-pink and black chailie the ti»‘ should be of black Liberty satin riblton-

The picturesque shady shapes of fancy straws with big choux of transparency, soft silk. and wreath of flowers, are bad to beat. Some are tied on with transparency strings in a becoming bow on the left side, as in our sketch. Here. too. is shown a charming frock of pure white muslin and grass-lawn lace. The bodice imade with a tucked yoke, ami a square-cut throat of the muslin. Brought up over this is an overbodicv and half-sleeve of the lace. The sleeve is continued fro.a the elbow downwards bv a full sleeve of the muslin gathered into a band of lace. The waist is finished by a ribbon sash of strawberry colour, the long ends hanging straight down at the back, or Hying lightly in the breezes as in our sketch. Since our gracious Queen wore one of these ribbon sash bands at Ascot, they have obtained immensely. The skirt of this frock, it will be noted, is tucked round the hips horizontally; it is then left plain till near the hem. then tucked again, and finished by a deep flounce of the grass-lawn lace. A chon of strawberry colour finishes the bodice, and

the ecru lacestraw hat is trimmed with white mousseline and straw berry-pink velvet poppies.

This is built of white flannel the pouched bodice opening over a draped undervest of dark blue satin, with a pinspot of white, full sleeves of the same showing lieneath the broad buttoned! flannel. Tile ->kirt 'is quite plain, and tight to ab »\e the kae?s, where a deep box pleat is piped on to it. it is. of coifr.-r. short. Whitt or dark blue suede shoes are w a a with this frock: the throat is left bare, ami a broad-1.. innned chape:, a of white straw is si rimmed by a scarf of white sprtved dark blue satin. All kinds of soft woollens ar baling used. Prom merges to cashmeres. and in some frenzied straining after novelty, scouring flannel being utilised tor smart boating gowns.