THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIX, Issue XIII, 27 September 1902, Page 830

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

Fashions have greajtly changed during the last few months, and last year’s sleeves and last year's skirts look distinctly demode. But there is one way in which the clever amateur can circumvent fashion. She can cut last year's sleeves off at the elbow, and put a big puff of chiffon or lace for the lower half. This news, I know, will be comforting to many. Just imagine the amount of work in every one of these sleeves. ’lt really is dreadful to contemplate. They are

mostly tucked to the ej,bow, and this puff of chiffon is not easily arrived at. To look well, it must be most carefully manipulated and arranged at exactly the right angle, and chiffon, we know, is a fabric that lasts but a day. and therefore it cannot be termed economical. In the reconstruction and renovation of old gowns, I assure you a great deal of intelligence and experience are required. It generally happens that you have to entrust these

difficult details to amateurs. The working-dressmaker is very oftt n extremely conscientious, and a very good worker, but she Is sadly lacking in any original notion of chic. Tri fact,, it is unwise to let her think too much; you had far better think this being the case when you remerafor her. You cannot be surprised £ ber the difficulties and intricacies of modern dressing, and how much depends on the worker who carries out the idea. “A stitch too many and a

tuck too long” may ruin the effect of a bodice, and there is more than we see with the actual eye dependent on the success of the smallest renovation. Then, again, should the dressmaker do her work admirably, the whole effect of her toilette may be ruined by the wearer. Simple little baby-girl sleeves, shaped exactly to the arms, six inches in depth, of lace and muslin, are given to an Empire gown of clear

white muslin sprayed with golden buttercups and heavily bullioned up the centre breadth, while particularly charming ones are of tucked chiffon and lace, closely fitted to the upper arms, then left to flow out into a loose cloud of chiffon, anon to be brought together again with tucks and lace bands. The fuller and more gauze-like the sleeve above the wrist the tighter the wrist band must be. Redingotes are, however, more often given bell sleeves, with inner ones of silk, while Russian coats have wristlets fastened over with jade, malachite, or agate buttons. Flounces remain faithful to us, but their forms are various. Most of them are after the godet order, shaped, but where lace is employed they are put on often quite straight round the hem. in no way festooned, but slightly full. Where materials are turned into flounces they are so cut that they widen out at the hem and become narrower above.

Hollands and coloured linens have never been more worn. The costumes made in both of these materials are this year so exceptionally pretty that I feel sure that a model specially designed for those materials will prove popular. Here. then, is a style both smart and easy to arrange. The Bodice is cut in the always popular Russian or sailor shape, while the revers are fashioned from plain white linen with a little line of washing trimming, such as braid or gimp, added all the way round. The underfront may be of lace or embroidery. The skirt, which .s exceptionally pretty, is arranged with a couple of deep hems or tucks set some ten inches above the foot hem. Now, at first sight these tucks may prove to the amateur a little alarming. Yet they are in reality the simplest things in the world to arrange. To form them satisfactorily it is best to cut a fold of the material some two

inches deep, and on the cross. These hems or tucks are then stitched into position after the skirt itself is actually finished. The bottom of the skirt looks in the picture almost ns if it were a separate flounce, but this is not the ease, ft is the two bands or tucks set above that give this particularly full and graceful appearance. ® ® ®

Our millinery illustration is very smart. The toque is made of black chiffon with a twist of white chiffon or folds of white silk between the folds of black. The crown is quite flat and trimmed at the side with a cluster of black ostrich feathers lying towards the back. the stems clasped with a paste ornament and upright osprey. ® ® ®

This shirt blouse seems to have caught the popular fancy, and there is every indication that it will be extensively worn this season. It is distinguished from other designs by the broad shirt-bosom front, which is obtained by a diagonal fold of the goods extended from the shoulder and sleeve seams to the box plait in the middle of the front. The same effect is carried out at the back and is shown in the accompanying design. This is the most popular design for eorded pique blouses.

The dainty blouse depicted is made in pale blue crystalline trimmed with ecru lace both as insertion and as appliqued medallions. A few tucks, which seem part and pareel of all dress just now, are effectively introduced on the bodice and sleeves. There is a very lovely lace which is used very much at present on both blouses and dresses, namely, luxeuil de soie, which makes an extremely effective trimming. This is generally usc-d on fine silky materials such as taffetas or linon de soie. Rougher materials such as serge or Holland are trimmed with

linen lace or a sort of tine rattia. Dress at present is altogether elaborate. and not only are there multitudinous tuekings, gatherings, and hand embroideries, but braidings of all kinds, wide and narrow, in wool, silk, chenille, or tinsel, some of the smartest gowns being altogether covered with an all-over design in tine eorded braid. The very fact that braidings are so much en evidence at present is sufficient to proclaim their speedy banishment from the toilettes of the leaders of fashion, for whatever becomes generally adopted is soon considered demode by the ultra fashionable.