THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVIII, Issue XXI, 24 May 1902, Page 1064

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

There is certainly a decided change in fashion, and more especially do we note that evening gowns are getting daily more picturesque, for the u;:-to-date couturiere seems quite inea t ab e of turning out a really lovely criation without using a goodly amount of lace. Well, when all is said an 1 done, can we ever better lace as a decoration, especially when mounted over chiffon. Another decided tendency in evening dress, and indeed, in day dress as well, is to make the waist look as long as possible in front and to shorten it at the back, by this means giving the skirt a lift at the back which is certainly more becoming than the droop to which we have grown accustomed. It is not quite so easy to alter la-t year’s skirts as was at first imagin d, still, if we can get a little more fulness in. add tiny tabs, and give this peculiar lift at the back, we shall go a great way towards bringing our last year's fashions up to date. The fancy for draping loose fodaeross the figure is much in vogue, and some of the smartest opera cloaks for debutantes this season are distingu's' - ed by this feature. But, indeed, the

styles for evening as for day wear are innumerable. The newest sleeves, if so they can be called, consist for the most part ot merely a shoulder strap of velvet or Howers with a bouffant drapery of tulle or chiffon falling from the shoulder strap, leaving the top of the arm bare. Another charming variety has a series of points of lace which meet at intervals down the outer part of the arm, the points being held together by smalt jewelled buckles and tiny knots of black velvet ribbon. Another full dress sleeve, and one that bears the stamp of novelty, is made of little loops of ribbon, one overlapping the other, and the whole covering the strap, which must be very

narrow. The loops are made of twofaced ribbon, so arranged, that the inner side shows slightly, just a tint being visible.

The prettiest sleeves ’in the nori 1 are the new Josephine ones, well described as little “baby-girl” sleeves. They just encase the arms from the shoulder midway to the elbow, and are made of entredeux of lace, with tucked chiffon or muslin between.

A point d’esprit net ball froek is ‘by far the most practical for girls. This fabric is a decided improvement on the tulles of yore, which were most extravagant wear, for, in spite of the somewhat ethereal appearance of the spotted nets of to-day, they are very durable. especially when the skirts are fashioned after the smartest ball gowns of the hour, that is to say, with a multiplicity of frills from the knees downwards, on which ribbon and lace are often introduced with most pleasing effect.

A coronal of flowers or leaves is considered very chic for evening wear in the coiffure, while even a chou of white tulle looks well if the wearer s complexion is sufficiently flawless to stand the test. Net, especially when embroidered lavishly with black or co'oured sequins, looks exceedingly well, and one charming toilette of ths fabric, which earned my warm admi.ation. had the bodice trimmed with ecru lace applique, while a trail of pale pink roses was arranged at one shou'der, and caught again at the waist, the ends falling thence on to the skirt. The effect of the flowers was particularly

good, and would be found to freshen up an old gown in a really wonderful manner. ® © © THE REVIVAL OF OLD GREEK MODELS. It is the Athenian toilette which is discussed in every modiste’s salon, tl’he skirt of the over-dress is open at the sides from the waist to the lower edge of the tunic to show beneath a flowing silk robe, with a long wisp-like train in imitation of the classical garments worn by Greeks and Romans. Two colours of the most delicate silk are chosen in combination for such a gown, one, say, of pearl pink, the other of milky white, or, again, one of seagreen, the other of cream. Both are embroidered at the edge with a design of the utmost simplicity, but carried out with the highest possible skill; gold is lavishly used in flakes, which sometimes take the form of little leaves. The bodice part is all folds, fastening on the shoulders with knots of ribbon.

This dress is of a good white satin, the skirt being finely tucked at the waist, and the hem finished with two frills of white chiffon and a garland < f shaded pink roses. The bodice is a great deal pouched in the front, and has a small bolero or Watteau pleat effect at the back, the decolletage being softened with the roses: black velvet narrow ribbons are tied over the arms at the top. and a little also appears on the front of the bodice, tying the stalks of a spray of roses. The hair may b ■ worn dressed high or low as the owner pleases, although the low style of coiffure is worn.

White cloth will be much worn, and the frock in the accompanying sketch is carried out in this fabric. The skirt is plain and tight-fitting over the hips, and is made with three tiny plain frills near the feet, each one cut up in the front. Of course, the skirt must be quite long in front, and trailing a little at the back. The Russian blouse coat is pouched in the front over a waistband of silver, and is made with a turndown collar and large euffs of velvet edged with narrow silver braid, and finished with small enamel or old paste buttons. The double shoulder cape is of the cloth. The neck is softened by a full jabot of tulle, which fabric also appears at the wrists in small frills. This costume should be completed by a picture hat of rather a small order, all black, and trimmed with some good ostrich feathers and a handsome buckle.

I am giving you a. sketch of what 1 consider a very pretty skirt and bolero, which would look very nice in Scotch tweed, trimmed with bands of stitched glace. The pouched blouse and large collar and revers are of white glace, and the vest and collar band of tucked white satin.

This costume would look well carri d cut in a fine, faced cloth, the skirt ratio | lainlv ( ver flic hips but fully

gored at the feet. The sac bolero is a very pretty one, hanging lo >se from a round collar of embroidery. The sleeves are of the bishop order, rattier plain but large enough to permit of their being easily pulled over the blouse sleeves beneath. The blouse itself is of soft silk or satin, tucked from the neck, where it is finished with a little transparent lace collar. run through with ribbon. The blouse is pouched above the waist, where it iconfined by a soft swathed band of the same fabric as the blouse, finished with long ends.

This design for an evening gown is of ivory crepe de Chine. It is made quite loose, hanging in straight folds, the drapery and hem of the skirt being finished with a small gold ball trimming. The top of the gown is swathed a I'Empire. and adorned with a fold and large chon of cerise | aunt* velvet, the latter caught with a go'd buckle. Tin* shoulder straps are also of the cense panne.

( harming materials are sold for both reefer, claddagh, zibeline and cLeviot among the number. An Irish Lice collar is a dainty addition to one o L ‘ the juvenile costumes shown, and the other has stole trimmings of velvet on it.