THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVII, Issue XXIII, 7 December 1901, Page 1104

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

Hats an* certainly the prettiest feaun* of the summer modes. It seems astonishing that the flat “pancake” style should have developed into such a graceful, airy, altogether delightful creation as one sees to-day—a hat that preserves the shape of the original form without its monotony and heaviness. One of the daintiest of the suminei models is made of white mousseline de soie, arranged in tiny shaped ruffles. one row above another. One side is pushed up with two rosettes of black cornet velvet, which allows a half crown of small pink roses to rest on the hair. This same model, in pink mousseline de soie. is carried out with no trimming except the rosettes of narrow black velvet. Some of the mousseline de soie shapes have the light frames simply swathed about with a scarf of the thin material ami a profusion of light field flowers thrown on top of this, with small bunches resting on the hair perhaps.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

Some interesting shapes are made of mousseline de soie combined with straw. Eor instance, two flat straw rutties have between them a draped scarf of mousseline de soie; or imagine a grey straw with the strands separated by tiny ruchings of white mousseline de soie. the shape arranged with a scarf of light blue mousseline velour. A veritable “study in mauve” is on.y a success when the wearer is possessed of the most brilliant colouring and thoroughly understands the subtle art of harmony. The newest and the very smartest shade is a lovely nut brown; not in the least the burnt straw tones of last year, but a real brown. Soft straws in this shade are particularly jxopular with milliners, who veil them with tulles and generally trim them with some shaded flowers in dead tones, sometimes mixed with old lace. One of the most lov< ly new model* in headgear I have seen was a plaited

mrt hrown willow toque, trimmed with soft pink and mauve shaded stocks, with some old patterned coffee lace drooping over the brim. Flowers will be immensely popular Many of the hats are worn tilted back off the face, and cut up at the back to show the new low coiffure, the brims being generally lined with a contrasting colour; some are quite square in the front—a kind of improved IS3O shape—the whole crowns being perfectly garlanded in flowers. One might continue these descriptions indefinitely, but the principal features of the hats are the same—flat shapes, thrown up on one side or descending in the back, constructed of the most airy fabrics, and trimmed with a profusion of field flowers and rosettes of cornet ribbon.

SKIRTS AND THEIR TRIMMING. Black skirts for wear with any waist remain as popular as ever. It is a frequent fancy to trim taffetas with nar-

row rutties of same, edged with baby black velvet ribbon run on in straight rows, one or more, according to the width of the frill. Next to this in favour as a skirt finish comes one flounce, tucked vertically at the top for several inches, an arrangement which at once makes a pretty heading and holds the fullness above the correct flare at the foot. Many, indeed most, of the new trimmings are made by hand, and are not difficult of accomplishment by any one clever at fancy work. A blaek China crepe made recently for a lady in court circles had a novel and beautiful trimming of black lace made into rosettes, consisting of one row of lace gathered full and laid in flutes, like daisy petals, each rosette with a velvet centre. There were stems to the flowers, also, of velvet piping. Two more of the newest and most effective of the season’s trimmings owe their costliness to the amount of handwork upon them, and may easily lie made at home by any clever needle-

woman. One is a sort of applique, the figures, leaves, arabesques, or flat blossoms, like daisies or wild roses, being eut out of silk gauze or lace net and outlined either in embroidery stitches or silk braid of the narrowest description and veined with stem-stitehes in colours to match. For the other trimming use silk on the bias, in any eolour you like, as a foundation for lace braid, sewed in a pattern, and held together by the simplest of lace work. Twisted stitch, with a knot now and then, is quite effective, although, of course, the handsomer your lacework the handsomer will be your garniture.

Soft black silk will make a charming frock for afternoon wear in the house. The skirt and bodice are both finely tucked and trimmed with an insertion of dull jet chenille and silver.

This design is original and out of the ordinary. The skirt shows a few Hat tucks at the waist, the over-skirt being stitched at the edge anc round the hem. where it is quite long, finished with two series of three buttons at the side. The bodiee is made with a vest of soft white moire, and the black velvet ribbon, and long revers, reaching from neck to waist, eut in points, each one being finished with a small button. The upper sleeves are stitched at the top. and at the wrist, completed with a button, and falling over small puffs of the white moire.

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