THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVII, Issue XXII, 30 November 1901, Page 1056

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

(By

MARGUERITE.)

<»f all the gowns of the year, none appeals to the heart of a woman quite the same as does the summer gown of muslin and lace and other fabrics that belong with the season. There is something about a lawn gown that appears to be within the reach of the home woman. Even if she does her own sewing all 11 time, she puts the scissors into wool

goods and into silk with more or less trepidation, but with a cambric or a dimity it is different. Even if she is no great dress architect, she can still see the ruffles and the froufrou of a muslin frock even before it is cut from the piece, and from the colour and her past experience she knows whether it is becoming to her or not. Then, too, summer goods

are so inexpensive that if made at home any woman can afford quite an outfit; for after all it is the linings, or “findings,” as the essentials are etilled, that bring the cost of a wool or silk gown up to the limit figure, and all these are eseaped in a muslin gown. THE MUSLIN GOWN. The foundation skirt of a muslin gown is of importance, and it is as well to make it first, even if it is nothing but a petticoat. Whether of muslin or silk, it must be made and finished with its ruffles just exactly like a dress skirt. It is indeed the underskirt of the gown, tor upon it depends the appearance of the muslin gown itself. This petticoat should

have a slight sweep, and the required flare about the feet at the front and sides. If you have an old or half worn taffeta skirt, it will prove of value in this particular. In making a thin gown of, we will say, Swiss muslin, make the taffeta skirt with a dejep silk accordion-plaited flounce. Cover this with a circular flounce of the muslin covered with; inch-wide bias folds running round, and overlapping each other just enough to hide the edge and the stitching. Then the skirt proper falls over this flounce like a tunic, and has a pointed or scalloped edge finished with lace. The bodice should have a lace guimpe, and may be finished simply with a fiehu if it is becoming. Or it mav be finished with a lace or silk

bolero. Silk boleros to match the skirt lining are a pretty feature of the summer season.

Another pretty muslin gown is fitted to the hips by a succession of perpendicular tucks extending to the knee, where the tucks are released to furnish a flounce that is in turn tuck,ed in inch-wide tucks running round in parallel lines. This, however, is not simple of construction, and is not to be recommended, unless the skilled artist has it in hand. (S) ® ®. SUMMER GOWNS FOR ELDERLY WOMEN. “Harper’s Bazaar” gives some useful hints on dresses for elderly

Wometi : ‘‘Many suitable materials may be purchased how for dresses for older Women. Among the soft materials are the foulards, silks, am ihlfetaS; as well as the grenadines.

veilings, and the many muslins which make most charming gowns. The dress of the elderly woman is not an especial style, but a modification of the fashion which does away with gay and ornate effects. Her gowns are characterised by some show ot Individuality.

“Itt the mixed Oxford suitings are d 1) timber of different qualities in dark colours that make up Well in toat and skirt. The skirt is best that has a flaring flounce at the side and a front breadth narrower at the top than at the bottom. A coat threequarters length looks best, with straight front and points revers. If the wearer is stout, si e should have her coat made rather shapeless, with a box back and a seam in the middle, and the side seams curved in somewhat to the figure. This will be far more becoming than a tight-fitting jacket. “Nun’s Veiling gowns with clusters

of tucks which run from belt to hem of the skirt are very smart in appeiiratice, Another way is to tuck only the front bteadth. leaving the sides and back plain, and finish witti a circular ruffle headed with narrow satin or watered ribbon.

“It is necessary that an elderly person should always wear blaek. though fashion has seemed thus to dictate. Grays and purples are extremely becoming and really suitable. White, too, is exceedingly appropriate for summer home wear. There are some charming qualities oi all-black India and foulard silks this season, made without any figure at all or with a small polka dot or flowered design. These are peculiarly appropriate for elderly women on dressv occasions.’’

My other sketch is of a gown of mauve and white foulard. The upper skirt is quite plain, falling over frills of the mauve and white material. The bodice is made with a separate vest of w’hite tucked lawn, and the frilled fichu is made of the same, held in front with nands of black velvet. The upper sleeves are tucked, and finished with a frill over an under-sleeve of lawn with a lace wrist-band. I suggest lawn, as it washes beautifully and wears well, and does not get the dirty yellow look that chiffon does.

STYLISH MUSLIN DRESS. I am giving you a design of a really elaborate frock for a muslin. The skirt is cut in three parts, each edged with an ecru lace insertion, while the front width is of aceordionpleated, or finely-tucked, plain white muslin. The bodice, which fits tightly at the back and sides, shows a full vest of the plain white muslin, with a deep collar of tucked muslin embroidery, caught with a large rosette of black velvet ribbon. The upper part of the sleeve is of the flowered muslin, edged with lace, and the lower portion consists of two puffs of white muslin.

This sketch is a design of a frock to wear at a bazaar or for a garden party. It is a very simple gown of tucked black chiffon, inserted with black Chantilly lace insertion. The bodice is slightly pouched at the waist, and is finished with a round yoke of the lace, mounted on chiffon. A large rosette and ends of chiffon finish the bodice in front.

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