A Chat on Embroidery.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVII, Issue II, 13 July 1901, Page 89

A Chat on Embroidery.

T wonder why it is. and what is the secret reason, that so many skilful amateur embroiderers, who do not

hesitate to attempt really ambitious

subjects for their needle, and who in

carrying them out reach a level of excellence that is quite remarkable—

it has often been my privilege to examine many of these embroidered pieces, that variously take the form

of magnificent hangings to beautifully embroidered pieces of all descriptions, some at least of which are destined to be prized as heirlooms, by future generations yet shrink from attempting to design or embroider, say. the front of an evening dress or tea-gown, or even minor portions of a costume.

It is extremely probable that an unexpressed fear of failure Is the potential cause of this shrinking, whereas, if only a proportionate amount of pains and skill were bestowed on the latter as on the former, the effect would be even more satisfactory

from a personal point of view than in the former case. That particular decoration would not only be free from any suspicion of mechanical execution, and from the possibility of being brought into unpleasant juxtaposition to a copy that is not even a replica, but would, besides, possess valuable associations that would lift it into an atmosphere of refined originality and sentiment altogether above the plane of the ordinary costume.

Indications of some steps in this direction are shown in the illustrations, of a series of beautifully embroidered white satin collars, accompanying this article. The designs are absolutely original. No. 1 speaks for itself as a most charming design for a yoke. The trellised background is in close crewel stitches in thick white silk, and is studded with turquoise beads, whilst the lovely violets are tied with simulated ribbon of the same colour worked in raised satin stitch. The collar accompanies this but in an unfinished state.

The purple iris is a very elegant design, and is worked in the same careful fashion; both flowers and leaves are perfectly represented, the groundwork being the same as the first.

Mark the groundwork of simulated silk lace on the last and most dainty of divided collars. Some idea of the stitches that form the lace may be gained from the illustration, but would require too lengthy a description for the limits of this article. The beautiful wheels round the edge are the same as those used in lace work, but are in thick filoselle, and are therefore very much raised. Turquoises also appear round the edge and between the tiny rose buds. Another on which are a graceful spray of flowers, leaves, and fruit of the common blackberry, has been prepared expressly for a brown costume. and to that end will be edged all round with sable. It is almost needless to add that its destination is alreadv assured.

If only the principle were more generally recognised that a simple

design covered with embroidery that has been thoroughly thought out and beautifully worked is much more valuable as a decoration than a handsome design that has been worked in a mechanical manner, and that consequently wears a hackneyed and vulgarised expression. The leaves in this spray are in autumn tints, as is fitting when the fruit is ripening. The ripe and half-ripe berries are represented by tiny blaek and red beads. The ground pattern is distinctly original, consisting of zig-zag lines of chain stitches, worked with a half-strand of white filoselle, each stitch being one-third of an inch in length. Large turquoise beads are studded throughout every alternate row.

The best of materials have been used in the construction of this elegant addition to a dress. An important detail this, that it is necessary always to bear in mind when making

preparations for embroidery of any kind whatsoever —the foundation of the work must be thoroughly good of its kind, if any sort of satisfaction is to be obtained in the working, or the humiliating conclusion will, in the end, be arrived at that all the labour and pains have been thrown away. The result will entirely fail the worker's expectation, no matter how perfectly she may have done her part in the embroidery; and as to thinking that anything less than one’s best efforts will suffice for the latter, is to wholly misapprehend its purpose.

A very original design for a collar for theatre blouse is embroidered with a poppy on one shoulder. The graceful poppy is slightly padded at the edges and worked in shades of pink, the raised edges of the embroidery being an important factor in its very natural appearance. The ground in this is worked like No. 1.