THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVI, Issue XVIII, 4 May 1901, Page 856

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGUERITE

“The time has come,” as the Walrus wisely remarked, years ago, or it "is very near,” when we shall once again lie privileged to talk of many things. The small circumference of our recent pivot has not been at all to our liking, or in the very least inspiring. But like a warhorse do we scent powder in the distance, and are restlessly champing our bits and pawing the ground in anger at lieing held in until the rightful moment.

It will. I am fully persuaded, be some long while ere we, as a nation, have need to resort to the deep, closefitting hip-belts now being adopted by the Parisian —though I would at the same time hint to she of embonpoint that these same belts are worthy of much serious consideration towards the acquirement of a shapely silhouette. And more than ever are we ro be dependent on PERFECTION OF OUTLINE.

It is perfectly conceivable how the mind untutored will find a difficulty in appreciating wherein lies the essence

of the charm of these apparently simple achievements; and how, jumping to outward conclusions only, they miss arriving at the desired end every time. It is the beneath that goes to spell more than half the tale—the corset, the |>erfectly-fitting petticoat, and last but by no manner of means least, that clever little cache corset, an unimportant wisp of a thing, but eminently serving the right end of giving the figure form withoat hardness. If you remark, we have grown distinctly longer from the throat to figure-line and this effect is irrespective of slim ness or stoutness. Naturally there arc relative lengths, hut they are only of moment to the modiste, and of no appreciable value to the casual onlooker. And. again, are clothes inextricably mingled with and dependent on deportment.

The sitting down, the rising up, the walking of the modern woman are a positive study in themselves. And when we hear, as we do very frequently. how such a person is a pleasure to

dress, as one doing credit to the simplest creation, clothes will follow in the natural sequence of things. Dear me! how 1 revel in a general chat of this description. And the connection is so dear to me between these apparently outside matters and raiment. There is no disconnecting the latter; it never becomes a thing apart — man. woman, or child, 1 care not, the same rule holds good in regard of suitable dressing. Now let me, ere 1 lose for ever my share of the Editorial chair, chronicle to you the faet that foremost among our designs this appreciative verdiet is invariably traceable to car riage. ® ® © SMART FROCKS ABOUT LONDON TOWN. HALF - MOURNING. Now that half-mourning is permissible. writes a correspondent, grey predominates, being evidently more in

favour than the mauve or purple hues, which, however, are not wholly without adherents.

There were many pretty gowns in evidence when I looked in at ’s the other afternoon, and one in a rich purple was particularly chic. Fashioned in the newest style, having the pleated corsage, which rumour asserts is to become prime favourite with us, and which has certainly made considerable headway in gayer capitals than ours, the corsage is in shape verymuch like an ordinary tight-fitting bodice, which opens gradually from the waist, where it is pointed, revealing an inner waistcoat and vest beneath.

Fitting well across the bust, the style is loose at back and sides, the fulness being usually confined by a shaped belt, and in this case it was fashioned of panne, which, slightly higher at the back, rounded off at the sides, leaving the front free and nneonfined. A rounded, rather broad collar of rhe cloth, decorated with little squares of the same coloured panne.

covered the shoulders and back of the gown in question, tapering away in front, where it disappeared inside the coat, which, merely fastened at the waist, opened to reveal a waistcoat of panne and a fleecy lace-trimmed chiffon vest. • The cloth sleeves, tight to the elbow, widened out into a putt confined by a broad strap of the panne ornamented cloth, to which a deep, tight cuff of the panne was attached, terminating in a shaped and rounded cuff which gracefully shadowed the hand.

A repetition of the squares of panne encircled the skirt, which was otherwise plain and of a suitable length in which to enjoy skating. A cloth toque, similarly treated with panne and caught by choux of the same and white osprey, fittingly crowned a charming toilette.

If the mauve frock carried off the palm it was closely rivalled by another in grey, which in a rough soft make of frieze was smartly strapped with panne, the strappings encircling the whole gown, both skirt and coat and the cloth toque being treated in the same manner.

The coat in the form of a bolero had broad turn-back cuffs to the elbow sleeves, whence appeared soft puffs of rich silk, which also fashioned the vest.

The principal novelty in this costume lay in the waistcoat, which, of panne, turned back from inside the coat over the bolero in the form of square tabs, which were embroidered in silver, and gave a most pleasing effect.

Another rather dainty costume in black and white was trimmed with strappings of white cloth, which were arranged round the hem of the skirt in a bold twisted design, the same decorating the square black bolero coat, which in its turn was laid on one of white cloth, the edge of which was alone visible.

A white cloth toque, trimmed with black ostrich tips, completed the costume, which, although simple, was particularly unique and distinguished.

A point which is worth mentioning is the early reappearance of the feather boa. which already on many of the gowns replaces the fur collarette. There is. however, a difference in the style of the boa: the long article has disappeared, a short very full one. just long enough to encircle the neck, having long strands of lace attached, be ing in vogue instead. These go very prettily with the semi-mourning grey and mauve costumes, and many of them boast strands of fine real old lace. a ® © ASPECTS OF THE SKIRT. A CHOICE OF MODELS FOR AUTUMN FROCKS. Paquin, the great dressmaker, whose vogue is always artistic, is pleating or gauging all his skirts at the present time, but other coutouriers are giving

their clients the tightly-fitted skirt, which about the knee flows out into an immense width. A choice of half a dozen models the sketch shown below affords. To pass them rapidly in review observe at the left-hand side a tunic model prettily arranged so that it forms a union with the bodice, from which it is divided only by an artisticlooking full sash-belt.

The next model has a perfectly plain and tightly-fitted apron upon the hips, upon which the skirt proper is attached by means of gauging. A trelliswork of ribbon velvet trims the edge of the model very becomingly. To neatly-arranged pleats on the hips which run right round the back and to three volants on the edge of the skirt the third model owes its eharms. Here machine stitchery is used to adorn the front breadth and to emphasise the volants. In the next case we find fur used with pleats stitched to keep them flat. Even the most wintery of wintery fabrics. Irish frieze, can be treated in this way by deft manipulation, nor need it look in the least bit clumsy after thus being tucked. That the kilted skirt is coming in again is one of the latest conclusions at which the close observer has arrived. In the sixth, a truly tailor-made instance, the skirt is perfectly plain about the hips, but the bodice has a basque, and is therefore built quite up-to-date. A broad stitched band decorates the back of the skirt, which at the edge flows to right and left, thus forming a heading to the volant that "oes beneath. Regarding skirts there seems hardly a vestige of novelty, but an inclination for making them plainer and more rational generally. There is 311st a ehance now of a pocket, though the enforced fashion of late, of carrying a dainty handbag en suite with the toilette, is still retained, notwithstanding the absolute necessity is (happily) nast. To the women whose existence consists of doing nothing gracefully, these bass with draw-strings may be a pleasure, but to others they are 311st irritating. ® ® ® FAVOURITE MODELS FOR THE MOMENT. hr the most exclusive ateliers of millinerv a hat or toque is built to suit Milady’s face and style. There she sits- the customer who can pay—while her ‘■points - ’ are absorved by Madame the milliner, who presently will sketch out a model that shall be unique and a gem, the which is later materialised by deft fingers under her tutelage. The secret, therefore, of the headgear of to-day is that it must be individual and distinctive.

Shupes of almost every description are being worn, ranging from the Direcioire and the picturesque Gainsborough down to the small turban. Some hats are turned gracefully off the face, while others have a drooping brim, and even the hat rolled up at the left side is still modish. But the

striking characteristic of the newest huts is that they are low, and have a broad, flat effect.

Still is the toque preferred by the ultra-smart woman, ami the Pompadour hat also promises to retain its popularity, as it is generally becoming and attractive. Most of these have fairly large brims, which turn up from the face, with very often elaborate trimmings in the front. Another chapeau that will be a favourite al through the winter, because it develops so well in felt and fur. is the three-eornered shape, with a brim turned up from the face, on one of the corners pointing coquettishly downwards at the left eye. It trims

well with Spanish pompons, or even with a scarf of bright panne. Especially is it partial to spots, for it is a jaunty model, and dots seem to agree well with its mood.

The round soft felt shape is another favourite model which is found very universally becoming. Sometimes it is trimmed with large'velvet bows and wings, but the really correct decoration for a hat of this type is a simple ribbon band or a silk or crepe scarf. Certainly colours will lie seen to a large extent this winter, but still the black hat will remain, for it is so stylish and yet serviceable. Some of the most elegant chapeaux are those carried out in black velvet and black ostrich, or in black with one huge patch of white, such as a chrysanthemum or a knot of velvet roses. ® © ® The pretty and stylish blouse here depicted is of much too dressy a character to be concealed beneath any coat, but is a charming idea for half mourning." The blouse itself consists of white chine silk tucked in rows

across the front and eould be worn without the arrangement of straps of black satin rilriuin which, tacked together. form an upper blouse of lattice work. This does not meet in fiont. but |>arts to show the tucked silk la-heath. A jabot of black lace caught by jetted or brilliant buckles extends down either side. It is a

ehurniing and very elegant mode, certain to prove becoming to a slender figure. There are such a number of pretty blouses to lie seen on all sides, their freshness still untarnished, that it is a puzzling task to make a selection. Many of the more elaborate inodes show a fichu of chiffon or lace draped closely round the shoulders, or more literally the up|>er part of the arms. It is a pretty fashion, but one must be possessed of really pretty contours before adopting it.