THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVI, Issue XII, 23 March 1901, Page 568

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGUERITE

Headgear is one of the most important items we have to consider when replenishing our wardrolie at this time of the year. Hats so often make or mar a costume. Therefore too much care and time cannot be expended on them. Our hats, if they lie successful. cannot be considered cheap items.

There is a distinct tendency at the moment to wear the hat over the face—that is to say some of the picture hats. The best way to describe one of the most lovely models I have yet seen this autumn would be to say that it was a large coalscuttle bonnet, pinched up in four places. This was made of plaited chenille, in that new. peculiar shade of purple blue, adorned with three ostrich plumes on either side. The whole of the crown was composed of some exquisite old cream lace, which

seemed to fall over the feathers, and was held in place by a large diamond and sapphire buckle in front. This charming confection was completed by a pair of laee strings, knotted at the side with some blue velvet—an incongruous mixture, but a most liecoming and distinctly novel one. It was worn with a black spotted tulle veil, coming just below the nose. 1 mention this veil particularly, l»e--eanse 1 fear most Englishwomen would have selected a blue veil to wear with this hat, and this would have given an unhealthy and horrible hue to the face. In direct contrast to this hat turned off the face was a simple grey, large shape, which dipped over the nose and had two big dents on either side of the back, where the brim was cut away to show a low coiffure. This was trimmed with one curling grey plume round the front, and

some black narrow ribbon velvet crossing, with a buckle at the back, and the ends of which fell over each side of the hair.

There was something inimitable in the chic simplicity of that grey hat. It was worn by a French girl, and was accompanied by the most delicious little grey, striped flannel gown, consisting of a short, natty coat, with a large grey velvet collar and turned-back cuffs, and the newest of skirts.

How is it that French people always seem to wear a gown worthy of note on the most ordinary occasions?

But to return to the subject of hats. So much depends upon the coiffure. 1 am glad that Fate, in the person of the Parisian hairdressers, still decrees that the hair, with the exception of a few cases, should still be worn high, and loosely waved,

with a big curl right across the front.

Flounces of lace are still being used on the autumn models, mixed with velvet, black lace perhaps being more general than cream. In very fine Chantilly patterns it is immensely becoming, and gives a softening effect to velvet or felt. The revival of chenille is not universal in hats, but in toques we have some very pretty specimens. The toque of the moment is so large that it should more properly be called a small hat.

Folks should be carefid in the arrangement of frills of lace, for there is a tendency to overdo this mode, which is apt to give a babyish apjiearanee, of which people who have passed their first youth should beware.

Very pretty are the big hats in pale shades, such as pink and tnr-

quoise, trimmed with a wreath of coloured autumnal leaves and a large ehoux of panne in a deeper tone. A becoming touch of blaek is generally added to these shades.

1 think we may conclude that the all-black hat is the smartest, and 1 have seen some beautiful capotes in dull jet, decorated with silver paillettes. These look best trimmed with black ostrich plumes or some of those new and curious marabout wings.

Regarding colour, a real blood red is the favourite of the moment, while chic tailor-mades are being made in a warm brown. But the former is a suitable hue for the autumn.

A red velvet hat of a Romney type, with a suggestion of black laee and plumes, is a becoming framing for the face should this be a colour that suits the wearer. Tomato-red is also used, and one some models we see five distinct shades intermingled. A beautiful capote was in a mix--1 ure of velvet and silk in these shades skilfully manipulated, with a great cluster of various coloured dahlias at the side. Flowers generally appear in the early autumn models, and give place to feathers as the winter advances. We have got rather tired of the grapes and berries which were seen on some of the summer straws.

ami these are apt to be a heavy decoration, but velvet flowers are very beautiful.

I saw a dear little grey travelling oc.ue of the Mephistopheles order, v. hich had four wings of grey velvet , >t itched anil intermingled with white glace, with a crown of Parma violets. It was not a particularly novel mixture, but it was an extremely pleasing one.

Very smart was a little twisted three-cornered soft grey felt, with two huge birds resembling pigeons more than anything. Swathed brims on our hats and toques will, like swathed bands, be much worn. To be successful the materials used must be of the softest and best. ® ® ® FITTED CORSET COVER. A new and popular design for a tight-fitting corset cover. It is snugfitting, with very little fullness over the bust, and is cut without seams except on the shoulders. To prevent the waist from slipping up a scant circular piece is set on at the waist line. If sleeves are desired a frill of lace or embroidery is set in the armhole. Muslin, cambric, nainsook, long cloth, and China silk are the favourite materials, trimmed with lace or embroidery.

A charming fashionable little French frock for girls of four, six and eight is the ■‘Antoinette.'’ The long body is quaint and very effective with the short skirt. The frock fastens at the back ami has under-arm seams. A puff sleeve is given. The little skirt is straight and gathered full all around where it is joined to the laxly. A plain guimpe, with the sleeves gathered at the hand, is given. The “Antoinette” can be made of any material, but is prettiest of Chinn silk, lace, or lawn. The model is of

FRENCH FROCK WITH (iVIMPE ANTOINETTE FROCK.

pale yellow silk, the body tucked in half-inch tucks. A narrow black velvet ribbon is fastened at the top of the skirt and a white lawn guimpe is worn.