Discovery of the Waimangu Geyser, near Rotomahana.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVI, Issue XII, 23 March 1901, Page 547

Discovery of the Waimangu Geyser, near Rotomahana.

(By

MRS HUMPHRY HAINES.)

This summer my husband and 1 made a trip to the Hot Lake District, our chief object being to visit the Southern end of the Rotomahana Rift, which last year Mr Pond and he explored more fully. As this is a part of the country which up to the present has been quite out of the scope of the ordinary tourist, it occurred to me that an account of what we saw both here and at the recently opened sights around Wai-o-tapu. might be of interest.

We left Auckland at 8 a.m. on a Friday in January, by the express train, under the care and command of the genial, though oft-time facetious guard. Turner, and after a pleasant run of 171 miles, arrived at Rotorua at 4.15. We put up at the Lake House Hotel, and in passing I feel bound to record our appreciation of the comfort and kindness we received at the hands of its popular landlady. Mrs Bright. As the various and attractive sights to be seen around Rotorua have many times been described by abler pens >han mine. 1 shall not deal with them further than to remark what infinite pleasure the viewing of them must give to all who are fortunate enough To be able to spend a few weeks in the district.

On the morning of January 30th. we left Rotorua for Wai-o-tapu via Pareheru. From this latter place a fair view of the ash covered country may be had without leaving the coach. In the distance Tarawera Mountain stands boldIv out. showing the chasm on the south- western slope. A little to the left of this one gets a glimpse of a small portion of Tarawera Lake, while in the mid distance the —are grey slopes of Te-hape-o-toroa Mountain deeply scored by innumerable rainformed crevasses and valleys meet the eye. On the other side of this high ground the new and extensive Rotomahana Lake stretches away right to the foot of Tarawera Mountain, but unfortunately no part of it is visible from this point of view. At a position a little to the right of Te-hape-o-toroa, and somewhat nearer to the observer, are situated the Inferno, Echo and Southern Craters-, and it is this region that I particularly wish to deal with later on. As Robertson’s coaches make a point of calling at Pareheru on their way either to or from Wai-o-tapu. no one visiting the Rotorua district should miss the opportunity of witnessing this view, which so forcibly brings home to one the vast destruction’caused by the eruption of 1886. But no true idea of the real nature of this desolate region can be gained without actually traversing its surface. which may be done in some parts with comparative ease, but in others is a very difficult undertaking, and not unattended by danger, while again other parts are. in the words of Mr Percv Smith, “impassable to man or

beasL” . After enjoying' this view for a shot t time I resumed my journey to Wai-o-ta-ni. leaving my husband at Pareheru. his intention being to try to find a shorter and more direct track to the Southern Crater than the one used by Mr Pond and him last year. In the evening, on his arrival at Wai-o-tapu, he gave the following account of his explorations: Leaving Pareheru at 12.40 by the old track (which starts from the Southern side of the road about 17<> paces from the loop at 1 iew Point. he made his way along it. passing the site of last year’s camp, crossin" a swamp from which a stream rims to Okaro Lake, then over a couple of ridges and past two small lakes, the second and larger of which he named Fault Lake, and so on to the Southern Crater, where he arrived at 2.15. Prior to leaving Pareheru only a very small body of steam could now and then be seen rising from the position of the Inferno Crater, and it looked as if the activity of last year, when he witnessed a severe explosion of the Echo Crater Lake. had considerably decreased. However, on his arrival at the Southern Crater it was very evident that such was not the case. True the Echo and Inferno Crater Lakes were all quiet, and only a very faint Steam cloud was rising from their surfaces. But some great change had taken place in the valley just beyond the Echo Crater Flat, and lietween it and the Boiling River. From this posi-

Second photograph taken a few tion large volumes of steam were frequently rising; and every five or ten minutes masses of black water were shot into the air to heights varying from 50 to 300 feet. During his stay at the Southern Crater, this grand display was continuous, and never a period exceeding eight minutes occurred without a major explosion, and smaller ones were going all the time. As the main object of his tramp was still to be obtained, he reluctantly struck to the left of the Southern Crater at 3.15. and getting back to Fault Lake struck to the right from the old track, and found a much better route baek to the, Pareheru Road, which he reached at 4.15, having “blazed” the track for future use. This new track joins into the old Te-hape-o-toroa Road, which leaves the Pareheru Road about a quarter of a mile before the latter turns off to tVal-o-tapu. At 5.30 he arrived at Wai-o-tapu. tired, but well satisfied with the result of his journey, and finite ready to do justice to the ample fare provided for us by our kind host and hostess, Mr and Mrs Falloona-

The next day we got our tent and gear together, ami made ready for camping out. and on the following morning, although the weather look ed somewhat threatening, we decided

to make a start for this new wonderland. At 10.10 a.m.. having stowed our traps and ourselves in a buggy, we left the hotel, accompanied by onr hostess, and under the care of our skilful Scotch driver, Robert arrived safely at the junction of the Rareheru and Te-hape-o-toroa roads at 11.45. Here we left the buggy, and. taking one of the horses, packed our impedimenta on it and started on our three mile walk at 12.5 p.m. There were

minutes after the first on page 546. enormous height . only a couple of places a bit steep for the horse, loaded as he was, but under the careful guidance of Robert he negotiated them safely, and the remainder of the journey was practically level, easy walking over ferncovered country. We arrived at the southern crater at 3.15 happy, but decidedly damp, as the rain had been falling more or less heavily suiice shortly after our leaving the hotel: but as there were indications of a fine afternoon, we decided to pitch camp, so placed our tent in a snug and sheltered positron, and in such a manner that from inside it we could have a clear view of the craters, which were about half-a-mile from us in a X.E. direction. Much to our disappointment. there was no sign of activity in this direction now; all was quiet, and only a little steam rsing from those parts that a couple of days ago were in such a turmoil. At 3.45 Mrs Falloona and Robert started on their homeward journey, somewhat disappoint, d that their anticipation of a sublime spectacle was not realised. My husband accompanied them as far as Fault Lake, in order to procure a supply of watei for the camp, and I was left alone. I doubt if 1 ever before in my life felt what it was to be alone, but I realised it now as I sat gazing on this desolate country, and those awful rents in the so-called sola! crust of our earth staring me in the face. And then the stillness—it was intense ano almost unbearable. But presently. oh. what a relief! there was .* sound — it almost seemed a loud no»3«* —yet it was only the twittering of a little fantail as he settled on the tent close by me and seemed to say. as he looked at me in a most cheerful man-

The column of steam rose to an ner. “You poor thing, what are you do'ng here all by yourself?’ I likt o that little bird. Soon he was joined by others equally sympathetic, ami 1 no longer felt lonely. But, alas! their curiosity was soon satisfied, and oft* they all went, as ft the place was too quiet even for them. The stillness was more intense than ever. Would he never come baek? “Halloo, there! been any explosion since?” I replied 1 had not heard any. We soon had a good tire of tupaki goitag. dried our clothes, and got things comfortable for the night. All this time the crater lakes and the valley were perfectly quiet with a 1 ght steam rising from them, when suddenly. at 5.45. from the latter position. and without any warning, not ven an increase in the steam cloud, a large mass of black water was thrown to a height of about 300 feet, ami followed by a lovely cloud of steam, which rose to a great altitude, and then slowly spread ’tself into a large white cloud. It was a magnificent sight, and although n long distance off. one could not but feel great ly impressed by its imposing magnitude. ami the vastness of the forces capable of giving such a manifestation. The Echo and Inferno Lakes were now throwing off an increased volume of steam, and were appar< title preparing for a further display of their powers, but in a short time the steam decreased in quantity, and all became quiet again. Having boiled the billy, ami after enjoying a substantial tea. we were discussing a programme for the morrow, when, at 9.30. the stillness of the night was broken by a loud rushing

sound. On looking out we naw that the valley geyser (subsequently named the Waimangu Lake) had again exploded,and its site was crowned with a massive steam cloud slowly rising in the still night air, and brilliantly reflecting the light of an almost full moon. Again in this occason there was only a single outburst, followed by a considerable period of quiescence. At 10.30 we turned in to our luxurious fern beds and enjoyed a good night’s rest. During the night the sounds of three or four further explosions reached us, but they did not greatly interfere with our s'umbers, as we knew that by the tiime the sound travelled to this distance there would be nothing to* see but the rising column of steam.

At 5.30 next morning, February 2, we were awakened by the sound of another explosion, and, on turning out, found that the sun had risen, and was shining on an enormous steam cloud which overhung and vyas ascending from the craters, whilst all around was low-lying mist, through which the steam had forced its wav. As the sun rose higher the mist slowly cleared away, exposing to view the now densely steaming lake, of which a photo was taken. During the early morning heavy masses of steam were rising all the time, and at 7.45 another beautiful outburst took place. A narrow column of water was shot upwards to a height of about 400 feet, and then fell back on its uprising cushion of white steam, which continued its ascent for some thousands of feet. W e got the camera into position so as to be ready should any further eruptions take place, but all parts gradually became quiescent, and it looked as if the opportunity of obtaining a most valuable photograph had been lost. However, at 8.15 the Echo Crater Lake again began to steam violently, and we occasionally' got glimpses of its surface curling and twisting and being intensely agitated. So fierce was its action that an explosion of it seemed to be inevitable, so we stood ready by the camera, but alas, its violent temper gradually cooled, and it rapidly resumed its normal condition. Well, there was nothing to be done but to watch and wait and exercise patience, so we did it, and were well rewarded. At 8.30 the volume of steam rapidly increased from the whole of this area, until it looked as if the entire locality was about to hurl itself skywards, and in about five minutes there was an outburst from the Waimangu Lake, but it was only* of comparatively moderate dimensions, not exceeding 100 feet in height, and fortunately the camera was not snapped. 1 say fortunately, and with good reason, for this little burst was immediately followed by a gigantic explosion from the same position, far exceeding in magnitude anything we had previously' witnessed. A vast massive column of black water was projected upwards, rising in an apparently solid body until it reached an altitude of between six and seven hundred feet, then for a moment it seemed to poise, but in another instant its apex burst out wards, and a torrent of inky water streamed downwards to meet and lose itself in the snowy billows of steam which rolled majestically upwards, swallowing the now descending sombre mass, and surging and tumbling on itself as it soared higher and higher into the clear and cloudless blue, of the heavens. It was aweinspiring. and a sight to be remembered. What height this steam cloud eventually reached it would be difficult to say, but it must have, gone many thousands of feet before it was absorbed. We were singularly fortunate in obtaining two good photos of this outburst, one of the column of water as it rose just prior to its bursting, and the other of its rapidly ascending steam, which latter, as shown in the photo, must have already reached over 2000 feet, although, comparatively, it had only just started on its upward journey. Our point of observation was close upon half a mile distant from this eruption, and we were about 300 feet above the level of its plateau. These figures should be taken into consideration when looking at the photographs, or they will only convey a very imperfect idea of the magnitude •f this upheaval. So impressed were

we by it that all the previous outbursts '»■ had witnessed seemed to have been insignificant, aye, even those of 300 or 400 feet were but as pigmies to a giant. The eraters now became quiescent again, and continued so for the remainder of our stay.

At 10.30 Mr. Matthews, of Rotorua, and a Maori named Edward, joined us at the camp. We went down to the Echo plateau, and ascending the hill to the eastward of it were able to look down upon the site of all this recent activity. Here was a large irregularly circular lake, about half an acre in extent, of black muddy steaming water, the surface of which was about 40 feet below the level of its plateau. This lake must be of very great depth, seeing what enormous volumes of water, mud and stones have been ejected from it, so that the hills and valleys for a radius of about 400 or 500 yards are covered with its debris.

Last year the place now occupied by this Waimangu (black water) Lake was. quite a flat continuation of the valley, the whole of which was perforated by innumerable small steam holes, boiling jets and springs. Mr. Pond and my husband had crossed this place many times on their way to and from the Inferno Cascade and Boiling River, little thinking that in a few months’ time its condition would be so greatly changed. But not alone is the immediate vicinity of this lake altered; other parts also are much changed in their appearance since last, year, notably the Inferno Cascade, which is now dry, and its pretty sinter basins covered with mud; also the upper portion of the Boiling River, where vegetation was gradually establishing itself amongst the brightly-hued rocks, and numerous small geysers and steam jets were continuously in play, all combining to make the beauty of this little valley beyond description. But now, alas, all this once lovely spot has a most desolate appearance, being of a uniform dull greyish colour, and almost all activity has disappeared. As we looked, the bed of the Boiling River was quite dry, but it showed signs of having recently been traversed by a considerable volume of water, and there can be little doubt that such takes place during the ei options of the new lake.

As all was now quiet Mr Matthews and Edward decided to try and reach Rotomahana, so they left us, and presently we could see them making their way along the valley of the coldwater stream towarris the lake. We returned to the hill and sat for a long time looking down on Waimangu, but as it showed no indications of giving any further display at present, we left it to the care of itsrSf, and explored down the next valley to the southward of this hill. In this we found several small springs of hot water, some of which were beautifully coloured, and a couple strongly loaded with iron oxide. The travelling along this valley 1 shall not attempt to des* eribe, but will refer my readers to the photograph of it. which gives a goorj idea of its nature. Yet I believe that it is as nothing compared with the ravines to be met with to the north of Te-hape-o-toroa. This valley evidently made its way into the coldwater stream, but before we could reach the end of it, an ominous elap of thunder warned us of a change of weather, so wc made our way back as quickly as possible and reached the tent, but not before we were wet to the skin.

Mr Matthews had not yet returned, but in about an hour he and his companion made their appearance soaked through, and somewhat weary from their arduous tramp. They had made their way to the edge of Rotomahana, up the spurs to the north of Te-hape-o-toroa, then to the west of the mountain, and so back to the camp. The last part of the trip being exceedingly heavy on account of the rain having softened the ash. After a short rest they continued their journey back to Wai-o-tapu. Towards evening the rain ceased, and we were able to get a good fire going, which made things more comfortable. Next morning, as the weather looked very unsettled, and the craters were still, quiet, we decided to strike camp, so at 7.30 sent off a pigeon with a message to Wai-o-tapu (where it arrived at 7.40) to send out the buggy for us. At 11.30 our friend Robert arrived with the horse, and haling packed our traps we started ob

our homeward journey at 11.45. We picked up the buggy at Pareheru at 13.40, and got back to the hotel at Wai-o-tapu at 1.50, just as rain began to fall, which rain lasted as a continuous heavy downpour for nearly three days, making us feel very thankful that we broke up camp when we did. Thus ended my first visit to the Waimangu Geyser, but I hope it will not be my last. We remained a further period of two weeks at Wai-o-tapu, which time we spent viewing the numerous interesting sights which are to be seen within easy walking distance of the hotel. To enumerate all of them would take up too much time, but I may l>riefly mention those Jmost worthy of notice. Aporo Winiata’s ground should of course be visited, as here are to be seen the famous Champagne Pool, the Alum Cliffs, the beautiful Primrose terraces, numerous coloured lakes, etc. Since last year the Government have opened up the Reserve, running over seven miles of good paths through it, thus enabling the tourist to comfortably and safely visit numerous interesting- and beautiful sights which previously were almost inaccessible and unknown- A day could easily be spent in this Reserve alone, without exhausting all its wonders. Indeed, we spent several days exploring it, and met with new surprises each visit. The Sulphur Cave, though small, is of great beauty. To view it pro-perly one must enter the eave, stooping low so as to avoid the sulphurous fumes that are continuously pouring from its mouth; now the roof can be seen covered with pendant clusters of glistening sulphur crystals. ■lt is sincerely to be hoped that visitors will refrain from disturbing these, and a notice to this effect should be placed at the entrance. The waterfall and rapids of the Wai-o-tapu stream as it flows through the grounds will also attract attention. Situated more to the westward, the Twin Falls of hot water are a lovely spectacle. Coloured pools of limpid water, boiling mud holes, sulphur springs. and weird chasms abound everywhere in such infinite number and variety that to enumerate them all would be impossible.

No one visiting Wai-o-tapu should miss the ascent of Maungakakaramea Mountain. It is by no means a difficult task, as a good bridle ’track goes right to the summit, from which one gets a superb view of the country. To the north may be seen Tarawera Mountain and Lake Rotomahana. with its surrounding ash-covered hills, while a little more to the left will be visible the steam columns rising from the Waimangu Geyser should it be in eruption. It was quiet the day- we made the ascent, and only' a faint steam cloud indicated its position. Nmnerous other lakes and mountains are dotted all around, and should the day be clear, far away to southward may be seen the snowcovered heights of Ruapehu Mountain and Ngauruhoe’s steaming cone. We explored a little valley running at the back of the Wai-o-tapu Hotel, which is rarely seen by tourists, yet well deserves a visit. In it are two little geysers which at short intervals eject their scalding contents to a height of 6 or 8 feet. There are also many boiling pools and sulphur springs, and we had to exercise great care in picking our steps so as to avoid an accident. Two pretty falls are also to be met with in this valley, the first being of cold water, while the second anil larger is of a high temperature, and spreads out into a beautiful fan shape as it descends. Above this fall exists an extensive area occupied by numerous lakes and mud pools, in various stages of activity, a wonderland in itself. I will only mention one other place of great beauty in this neigh liourhood which has but recently come into notice, Mr Josiah Martin, of Auckland. being one of the first to visit it. I refer to the Waikiti Valley. Being doubtful as to the distance and nature of country to be traversed to reach this spot, 1 decided not to undertake the journey, so my husband started off alone one morning, and on his return spoke highly of the beauties of the wonderfully clear and limpid boiling springs he had seen there.

Let not my readers think that I have in any way exaggerated the attraction of these parts. On the contrary I only feel too keenly my in-

ability to do them justice; but if my description, such as it is, be dgib ia description, such as it be, only induces others to visit these scenes, I feel sure that they at least will appreciate my endeavour.