THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXVI, Issue I, 5 January 1901, Page 44

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGUERITE

Our first greeting to yet young 1901, and a very friendly one it is- full, moreover, of hope. No one. of course, knows what a day may bring forth, let alone a whole year, but yet wo hope for all things good, and my wishes for you, my readers, are full of kindly thought and care. As regards our intercourse together, mpy these months make this useful and l-.elpful to each one of us. May they, too, cement our column friendship closer and closer, and as a true friendship is one where there is real sympathy and help, so T trust through rhe medium of this weekly letter we may come to know each other very well, and to be of mutual assistance to each other. I need not say T am glad at

any time to hear from my readers, and ready, too, to give them any information 1 possess which they may from time to time require. Yes, 1901. what are we going to make of you? When we look back and read what changes have come in the last century, which at first it will seem so hard to believe is at an end. we hardly dare try to think what may come to the world in its successor. Every imaginable thing connected with our country, our ways of living and thinking are so altered since the nineteenth century began, that if we tried to imagine what girls'would be doing at the end of the twentieth century we would be justified in having very wild dreams indeed.

Young women who daily go to their well paid work can hardly realise that since 1800 came in, thousands of doors have opened for them which in all the centuries before had been tightly closed. Women who worked, either toiled with their needles, laboured in factories, or performed some domestic duty. In health, physique, and learning women have advanced very much during the century. A hundred years ago, robust health was considered “indelicate,” and to possess rosy cheeks and to take exercise was unladylike. while it was considered “good form” to faint often. The girl we are used to at the end of the century, one who can walk. ride, row.

and bicycle with the best of the other sex, would have horrified the good ladies of the beginning of the century. With respect to learning, again, women’s position has vastly improved. A hundred years ago the sex was looked- on as inferior, and women were not to have anything more than the most rudimentary education, though here and there were notable exceptions.

The women of to-day are fast winning fame and fortunes for themselves in the fields of law, medicine, literature, education and the fine arts, and in the century to come what may they not accomplish with the aid of all the wonderful appliances of science and the great institutions of education

that are springing into active life on every hand. Of course, 1 am dealing with the question from the standpoint of the “work a day” people. In the matter of fashions, my read ers, I think, join me in the mod.stie hope that the chiffons of 1901 may prove as attractive and becoming as those of the past 1900. Muslin is undoubtedly the craze this season, though the hope has been long deferred for wearing it. The flowered muslins recall the days of our grandmothers, when simplicity was affected in muslin and a sash. The modish muslin gown of the moment is a dangerous pitfall to the uninitiated. It looks so guileless and simple that he or she (mainly “he,” as unversed in the fearsome wiles of dressmakers), thinks how pretty and inexpensive; yet, four or five guinea's is an average price for these “simple” and perish able gowns. I shall, however, deal more exhaustively with this matter in a future issue.

This very charming linen gown is expressed in a pretty shade of pale blue, the corselet and trimmings being

carried out in twine-coloured lace, tiny little steel buttons further embellishing the- whole. A novel and really very charming trimming which figures on many of the most effective linen, and indeed some of the tweed and woollen gowns, is embroidered crash, sometimes carried out exclusively in one tone, or again two or three shades of colour are employed intermingled with artistic little touches of black. In every case the effect is delightful.

The sketch shows a couple of bathing suits, one for a child and the other for its mother. The little girl’s dress

is of blue and white stockingette, with a blue collar and band, while the other costume is of bright red serge, trimmed with white braid. In both instances the feet are protected by sandals, which are now the most approved footgear for bathing in.

I am giving you a design for a new, smart afternoon gown. It would lock well in a bright shade of navy-blue eashmere. You will see it is made with an under-flounce, and this, as well as the over-skirt, is piped or stitched at the hem. The bodice is

tucked at the waist, and the sleeves are somewhat of the Elizabethan order, that is, tucked to form three small puffs. The fluted, piped, or stitched revers disclose a vest of drawn white crepe de chine, finished at the n-jck with a smart, little bow. If it would not be too expensive, blue crepe de chine would look lovely instead of cashmere, though the latter is now a very fashionable material.

In the world of millinery the most conspicuous novelty is the hat whose brim turns abruptly back from the face with a large bow of silk or bunch of flowers. Other hats, again, resemble nothing so much as a large flat plate, and are supported on the hair, which is much puffed out by a broad bandeau. These are made out of crinoline straw cunningly woven to imitate lave. Such are trimmed with

swathings of ehiffon or tulle, or perchance satin ribbon and flowers. They recall to one's mind the portraits of Marie Antoinette. The picturesque hat illustrated is of fine Leghorn straw abundantly trimmed with pink roses and foliage. Soft tulle strings coming from behind are tied at one side, the inside of the drooping brim having ruchings of white tulle as a lining. We are allowed to tilt our hats at whatever angle best becomes us, much latitude being permitted in this respect. The most fashionable veils at present are those of fine silken Russian net, plain or with a couple of chenille spots, but the latter are rather difficult to adjust, and cannot be put on in a hurry, as the effect of the spots appearing at the wrong part of the face is decidedly ludicrous. Another becoming net is of the finest tulle covered with very fine spots. It

is whispered abroad that no longer are our veils to be fastened below our chins, but are to come only as far as the upper lip, but the time is not yet here when the mode will become generally adopted.

White voile is the fabric chosen for this ideal summer gvwn. but the belt and bow are to be of old-gold silk, while the vest is a white one run through with gold ribbon. Stitched blue and white linen with a front of

tucked muslin and little inner sleeves also of muslin, make a charming summer toilette. The hat and the wai tba.nd of this toilette are both to be black, and very cool and pretty the effect would certainly be.

ELABORATE TOILETTES SUIT ABLE FOR A GARDEN PARTY.

The gown on the left hand is made of beige batiste, with touches of gold over white mouisseline de soie. and the other is a turquoise-blue .mousseline and linen gown very elaborately

gauged, and threaded through with black ribbon velvet. Picture hats go with both costumes.

This should be made of the new and beautiful white embroidered muslin, a material that seems to bring back a whiff of lavender-scented gowns; for in the days when white embroidered muslin was fashionable before, every woman had sachets of lavender laid in her wardrobes. The gown would look well mounted upon heliotrope taffetas, and should have a transparent lace yoke and sleeves, a heliotrope chiffon bow upon the bodice, and a belt to match.