THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXV, Issue III, 21 July 1900, Page 140

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGURITE

The subject of sleeves is again no unimportant matter, as sleeves, like skirts, are the portions of feminine attire that undergo alterations more than any other. For a while the tightly fitted sleeve, with its long cuff, seemed to satisfy our aspirations, bur now there is such a number of variations upon the one theme that every type of arm should find its'eomplement of beauty. There is a tendency towards larger sleeves. The expansion is la-low. not above the elltow, and spreads out liell-shape. into a deep flounce. This sleeve is quite elose fitting from the shoulder to the elbow, and is evidently some variation from the old-time flowing sleeve. Its use just at present is confined to to;: gowns and jackets, which sometimes have a close sleeve of tucked chiffon and a long, well-shaped sleeve falling over this. However, such an extreme in sleeves need not be anticipated for the immediate future, the close-fitting variety being almost certain to endure through the coining season. Mousquetaire cuffs are a feature of some of the new sleeves. They extend quite up to the elbow, and are cut to fla'-e a little over the hand.

If the dimensions of our sleeveshave visibly been on the decrease for the past twelve months, their importance as a leading feature of dress has not followed suit, and there are very few to lie seen which do not bear some garniture in the form of tuekings. strappings. insertions, or applique. There is also a revival of the Marguerite sleeve, that is. with slashings at the upper part, and puffings at the elbow, but so far these have only been worn bv the few.

The freshest fancy in sleeves is called the pagoda. Made of soft mousseline. it is banded at intervals round the arms. A pretv idea is this, but one that must not be overdone. It eharms as an under-sleeve, over a cloth or silk one. and is particularly useful for theatre bodices, tea-gowns, and three-quarter coats. IX FANCY COSTUME. HIX iS FOR THOSE WHO MUST CONSIDER EXPENSE BEFORE EVERYTHING.

People who spend their money extravagantly are going to fancy-dress balls as Cleopatra. Queen Elizabeth, a lady of the time of Charles IT., an-’ so forth: but those who prefer dresses that don’t cut away from £5O to £’<K' out of their allowances at one fell swoop will do well to consult the illustration given here. All these toilettes speak for ‘hern selves. The French demoiselle at the top might have stepped from the Court of Louis XV.. ami picturesque indeed she looks. The girl from Girton wears an elaborated gown, and i 'M|> tii.it is irn sistibly becoming.

Below there is a little Jap maiden, prettily attired in a flowered brocade. Something that will “come in afterwards" is what the girl bound to consider her purse likes to achieve, and with the exception of the cap and gown here are costumes that please her on that score. © © ® T he little frock shown in our illustration is one of the patterns which mothers will appreciate. It is intended for a child from six to eight years of age. ami can be made quite a smart little party frock, as in the sketch, or quite a simple every-day affair. If for the former purpose, white silk, nun’s veiling, firn- serge, merino, or any other pretty fancy material could be used, and the frock trimmed with insertion, lace, and ribbon.

If for every-day wear, serge would be about the most useful material to employ. and 21 to 2 J yards of 44-inch goods would be necessary, with about 2 yards of insertion. 31 yards of lace, ami 3 yards of riblmn.

The yoke will require lining, and this, as well as the centre of front ami back of the skirt |>ortioii, must lie placed to a fold. The rows of insertion are sewn on before the yoke is joined together at the shoulders, and the neck is sewn into a narrow straight neck-band, over which the frill of Ince falls. If used for a <lny dress the yoke cun

be made quite plain, or trimmed round with two or three rows of narrowbraid. while the ribbon bows, which make such a pretty finish to the lower edge of front and back yoke, would

be omitted, ns well as the lace epaulettes. © © © The St. Patrick's Day of 1900 will have set many balls rolling appertaining to Ireland beyond the wear of the shamrock, let us hope, once started. to be henceforth kept ill perpetual motion. Many beautiful though much neglected Irish industries —lace. pop-

lin. silk, all promise to come to the fore, to say nothing of the worldfamed linens and cambrics, and should never be allowed to suffer neglect or

stagnation again. One and all should follow the example of the Queen Mother in wishing honour to the Emerald Isle for the sake of its gallant sons who have fallen for Queen and country, and. if greater prosperity and a kindlier unity is thus brought about, those brave lives will not have

been laid down in vain. There are so many fascinating little coatees ami jackets luring us on to rash ex|*enditiire now. that really, if one were sufficiently hardy to throw prudence to the winds, and embark on the agreeable purchase of two or three, it would not lie easy to select amongst such an attractive legion. Perhaps the most dainty are those

of very pale fawn or biscuit-coloured cloth, with perforated designs showing white satin through. An example of one of these delightful little garments is given in this figure. This, it will be seen, is one of the quite short models. It is scalloped round, and stitched with white silk. The perforation is in scroll pattern, and stitched round with a fancy stitch of white silk, in touch with the white satin showing through. A pleating of white lace eomes from under the scallops, entirely round the edge of coat, which makes a delicate finish for a dressy jacket of the kind. A little muff is shown in this sketch of lace and violets. Such pretty conceits are likely to be carried, after fur has been laid aside, as a chic finish to a dressy toilette. © © © A pretty combination of silk and laee shows in this figure. The bolero is now presented in such endless forms that—like the drawing-room pieces of ancient history-, with innn-

nierable variations of some wellknown theme, which became ultimately unrecognisable—we scarcely know it at times. The silk portion of the bodice here is a short bolero as regards the back, the front being brought up in a series of pleats froufrou fashion: the shoulders having epaulets on the same lines. The bolero is of green silk, lined with chestnut pink, and stitched round all the edges: and is worn over a bodice (gathered into the waist), and sleeves of cream Irish guipure. This is a very pretty and dressy model, which could be carried out successfully in various colours and thin fabrics.

Certainly amongst the most modish novelties of this season, the union of black and white cloth has a special cachet. A charming example of this inode, recently seen, very smartly

worn, is the subject embodied in this figure. It will be noted that the skirt, bolero and sleeves are of black cloth, stitched with white, and worn over an under-bodice and skirt panel of white cloth stitched with black; “a study in black and white.” and an immensely successful and effective one we thought it.

As becomes the city of chiffons, a very important section of the Paris Exhibition will be the costumes of various ages or periods of history, represented by wax figures splendidly attired, and grouped in appropriate, rooms, which are sure to prove of immense interest to all feminine visitors. Though on a less ambitious scale, our coming “Woman’s Exhibition.” at Earl’s Court, will also devote a goodly space to the matter of dress, ami will, no doubt, command much attention. Our grand Queen, who seems, despite her weight of years and anxieties, to forget nothing either in mass or detail likely to please, help, or console her ]>eople, has had a handsome black velvet gown brocaded with shamrocks, made for wear while in Ireland, in compliment to Erin. On her last visit there, so many years ago. when she was described as “a particularly attractive young woman,” she wore at her receptions a white Irish poplin, embroidered with gold shamrocks, with emeralds, and many diamonds.

SYLVESTER ETON JACKET. Eton jackets in various new cuts and designs bid fair to be more popular for outdoor wear than ever before. The “Sylvester” fits as tight in the back and at the sides as a tailor basque. The fronts extend a little below the waist, are pointed and open sufficiently to reveal a shirt waist.

This figure reveals a charming model from a very smart source. This is composed of black grosgrain silk, and tine cloth of the crushed strawberry colour which is now obtaining. The

yoke and collar under the eapuehln (of the blaek silk) is of strawberry silk overlaid with blaek guipure lace. The rest explains itself. ® ® ® We also represent an evening dress of soft white velvet. This style of velvet is particularly adapted for evening dress; it is so becoming in its fit that nearly all women of fashon have adopted it this season. The dress Is in the princess style, the corsage being slightly draped. The decollete is irregular in form, being edged on one

side with a double row of pearls continued in the form of an epaulet. A hanging drapery surrounds the top of the arm. letting the pearls on the shoulder be seen. On the side of the corsage, starting at the waist, and rising up to the chest, is a garland of yellow pinks. The princess tunic opens down the side, showing the skirt of orange velvet. trimmed with three rows of pearls round the bottom. The train, which is long and supple, is supported by a balayeuse formed of petals of artificial flowers.

Like so many other really pretty modes, the fur toques will ere long, we fear, be discounted by “cheap and nasty" imitations. Already a beginning is being made in this direction.

so we must quickly assume this becoming headgear ere it has become demode. if we would do so at all, for once we are familiar with the fur toque at oue-and-elevenpeme we are not likely to have much zest for a fur toque at any price. there being few things so thoroughly objectionable in the wherewithal of our clothing as bad imitation fur. This is to lie regretted, for there are such charming possibilities and examples this winter of this phase in millinery. Take our model in this figure for instance. This is a chin-

chilla toque with basin crown, and brim short at the buck, broadening at the sides and front. It is dashed up in the centre of latter, and held by a folded knot of velvet (pale blue by choice), from which spreads an aigrette of white lace, and two grey ostrich tips, combined with a narrow row of chinchilla; a novelty introduced, it will be remembered, last winter, which still obtains this. ® ® ® The picture hats of all kinds are nearly all a success, exceedingly picturesque and effective. To some of these distinguished looking chapeaux, soft, full tulle strings are added, with very becoming results, especially to a thin face which needs furnishing. Our sketch is a smart example of the pic-

tore hat with strings. The shape, with fairly broad brim and high crown, is of fine blaek chip straw, trimmed with blaek lace and black ostrich feathers, the strings being of pale pink tulle. ® ® ® This dainty toque is here given on a larger scale. It comes easily within the powers of the home milliner to manufacture in a very short time. First get a frame, such as can easily

be obtained for a small sum. Then one yard of turquoise blue chine silk must be swathed in folds round it. bringing the extra silk to the front and arranging it with the aid of some millinery wire into a chon, caught in tin- centre by a jewelled clasp and intermingled with some black chiffon and a waving osprey. Narrow lines of rucked black chiffon are continued round the edge. This could be carried out in any other line of colouring preferred. but care must be taken to preserve the rounded, turban-like effeel which all toques must this season possess. Toques must surround our faces a la aureole, while bats either curve sharply back from the face or droop in front in a picturesque fashion. Wreaths of shaded leaves or flowers will be much worn, and give a pretty appearance to the back of a straw hat.