THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXV, Issue II, 14 July 1900, Page 92

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGUERITE

Neckwear is always very dear to the average woman’s heart. The dressing- of her neck either makes or mars her whole toilet, and it behoves her to be very careful in her choice. Dame Fashion is ever devising new schemes of treatment for adornment. According to the latest arrangement the stiff linen collar is doomed, and in its stead an abundance of fussy contrivances formed of lace, muslin, net and ribbon, are used. Soft, rich lace is a beautifier. and will soften the complexion exquisitely. If the throat is beyond the art of skilful masseuse, then swathe it in soft, flimsy, gossamer-like laee. No matter how hard the lines, this frail bit of cobwebby material acts like the retouching pencil on a photographic proof. The Cavalier tie will be worn in the spring. It is a very long scarf of white mousseline de soie. with encrustations of yellow lace upon it. and richly laced ends. Another of the pretty “conceits” for adorning the bodice is the net fichu which envelopes the shoulders, finishing in front with a chon, and long ends falling half-way down the skirt. An entirely new collar is made high and in some cases it is pointed at each side—of velvet studded with glistening jets and nail-heads and cut steel, and' having a graduated jet fringe falling from the lower edge. Collars of heavy crossgrain silk with jet and cut steel associated and steel fringe are also seen, while others are represented made of mousseline de soie embroidered in spangles and jets, with the fringe of heavy jet arranged in graduated or undulating st vie. This particular neck adornment will be sure to meet with approval, for the jet collars worn a long while ago were given up reluctantly. The wide belts or eeintures are revived on the newest gowns. They really give the appearance of a slim figure, more than the narrow belt does. Patriotic feeling is now shown by the trinkets worn, for I see that in some of the jewellers’ shops little “breloques” or charms for the watchchain or bracelets are being sold, containing tiny portraits of the various generals or officers out at the front. A single jewel worn on a slender chain around the throat is a pretty new fashion. The latest With regard to gloves is that the glace kids in the palest straw, biscuit and pearl grey are being sold for afternoon affairs, to be worn with dainty costumes. In hosiery the latest novelty is a mingling of blue and purple silk and wool. There is a suggestion of plaid about the pattern of the stocking, but not by any means of a disagreeably blatant type. Lace-fronted silk stockings for evening wear, very naturally still play a part of triumph among the exclusive few who can afford to buy them. The laee is appliqued on to the silk, and beautiful patterns are chosen with a view to lengthening the look of the foot ami to accentuating the delicacy of the ankle. There is a novelty at. the present moment in millinery floriculture—which, though as airily inconsistent as most of the floral decorations of

up-to-date millinery we must confess to thinking pretty. This is a bouquet of fruit bloss-m combined with bunches of its ultimate fruit. As

instances, two very smart models interviewed recently were: First, a cherry-coloured areophane (that oldworld revived transparent) covered hat. with decorations of cherry blossom and cherries. '1 he other was a drawn tulle shape of celery colour (a new shade), with runnings of black velvet bebe ribbon, and groups of blackberry blossom and blackberries. As no modish wardrobe this season will be complete without a I lack picture hat of some kind, in this figure we introduce out of many shown .is, one which was a compromise between hat and toque, and therefore a form that might recommend itself to those who may not find one or the other specially becoming. This is built entirely of black chiffon on the broad lines so becoming to most faces. It is sprinkled over with tiny cut steel beads, the broad bows across the front being held by a ent steel buckle, and an aigrette of black ostrich feathers completes the left side. A species of somewhat exaggerated sailor shape, either entirely swathefl in one of the various transparencies now in vogue, or of fancy straw much trimmed, are obtaining just now. and are worn tilted up on the left side with a chon of some kind beneath the brim.

MILLINERY TO BUY, AND SOME TO AVOID. This pictured hat is trimmed with a big bunch of geraniums, and is one of the most becoming of models, with a brim that is shaped most prettily and composed of dove-coloured peau de soie stitched with geranium-colour-ed silk. A soft sash of pink mousseline de soie wreathes the crown and n mgles with the blossoms. There is a new rage in the shop windows for pastel flowers, which means that the blossoms are carried out in im|K>ssibly soft shades never seen in nature. In effect they are faded-looking, and by no means attractive, especially in the cheaper varieties. Another positive furore that seems to have attacked the shop windows at present is a -display of vine leaves and grapes. There, let us hope, the majority of the vintage may stay, it is so easy to overdo this sort of decoration on a chapeau. But there are the most wonderful specimens of headgear to be seen now. Some discrimination needs to be used in making- a choice among them, for one should harden one’s heart against eccentricities purely because they are new. -

This is just the season of the year it which oddities do make their appearance; it is so necessary to produce and show something out of the common at the turn of the seasons. Often an idea, that is highly sensational is made, simply to filter away into oblivion after a while, though there are some people who will insist upon purchasing sueh vagaries and make themselves look ugly by wearing them. I like the chenille hats greatly. They are as soft as wool, and excessively becoming.

A smart little bodice of fine black cloth makes its bow in this figure. It

is cut with low neck and round collar to show an under collar of white satin overlaid with white guipure lace gathered slightly at the bust as some of

the newest pouched bodices are, and finished by a knot tie of white satin with laee insertioned ends. A pretty toque is also shown here of grey tu'lle and pink poppies. ® ® ® Black and white effects still hold their own, and in Paris are being largely used for evening dresses. I made a sketch for you at one of the leading modistes here, which you will see in the column, of a dress made en tunique of black tulle Chantilly, encrusted with white lace and draped over white satin. The tunic opened over a skirt of white mousseline de soie arranged in little billows. Tiny velvet ribbons were threaded through the lace. This is a vogue we admire immensely at the present time. ® ® ® . TWO EVENING BODICES. I paid a visit this week to a great couturiere, and truly I think if we ehoose the prettiest of the fashions, leaving the ugly ones alone, we may say that the fashions are very pretty indeed. Charming was a gown of rough pinky-red tweed, the skirt elaborately stitched by the knees in a V

shape, oft repeated, the back in a series of pleats, pressed down and machined at the top and left to fall lower down. The bodice took the bolero form, straight round at the back, hut cut with a couple of spaded fronts either side. This turned back with double revers, the under ones of cloth plainly stitched, the upper ones of white watered silk, beautifully and minutely embroidered in faint coloured silks. These revers were like exquisite little handkerchiefs cut in half. The front of the bodice was of soft white lisse with lace over it. the collar of the same, and the sleeves were long ami tight, falling in a rounded point over the hand. I greatly admired the two high evening bodices sketched here. The first is of ci eiiin-eoloiired panne covered with applications of white embroidery. Frills of cream lace form a kind of over-bodice, with little draperies of tulle above them. The other bodice is a little bolero of white taffeta, embroidered with little gatherings of ruches of white tulle, and embroidered flowers in soft colours. The vest is of pleated chiffon and the high ceinture of soft folds of pink mid green ribbon tied in a knot, at the side. You see everything is hand embroidered; everything bears traces of fine stitch-

ery. I saw a lace scarf from Paris covered with tiny medallions of brocade, each surrounded by a bebe frill of lace —as an example of what 1 mean. It is just the same with much of the newest millinery; it all bears the trace of much handiwork, and many are the lovely hats and toques to be found now. And, by the way. how completely the bonnet has disappeared! -Time was when all young married women felt it incumbent upon them to wear a bonnet; now one is never seen upon a young head, and not so very often on an old one. Hats and toques are beginning to be quite usual wear for quite elderly ladies, and, indeed, I think they are infinitely more becoming, especially hats—more so than toques.

The Shirley blouse is equally appropriate for silk or organdie and a pretty fashion for maid or matron, rhe back is made with three side plaits on each side folded toward the centre and overlapping at the belt. The fronts are plain, slightly full at the waist line and trimmed to hide the darts with bands of flat trimming. Pale blue mousseline de soie would be charming made up in the fashion with a chemisette and collar of tucked white mull and a trimming of cream lace. The girdle would lie of black velvet.

A charming design for a pretty bodice to complete a costume. As illustrated it is a plain, round bodice of mauve foulard, carrying a scattered deep vio'iet design; is opened back and front to show a vest of violet-white chiffon, tucked. The plastron is of deep eream lace, and the velvet bands and the bows on the vest are of the deepest violet shade.

® ® ® Contemporary with the new shade, ■‘celery”—which is so difficult to describe, being an indefinite combination of faint green, faint biscuit and ivory tint—is a new shade of pink (not a pretty one. in our personal opinion), which closely resembles the hue of pink blotting paper. This is being much exploited just now, and is the colour of the frieze cloth which composes the gown sketched in this figure. This, it will be seen, has a short-pleated skirt on the now prevailing lines, with a mitred strap of black velvet from the waist to where

the pleats are allowed to fly freely. Similar velvet straps take the place of

revers on the double bolero, which is worn over a yoked and pouched under bodice, and also head the sleeves. It has, of course, been considered very bad form of late years to wear the indoor gown out of doors without some little addition, however trifling, in the way of lace or feather boa < excepting for quite young girls) to mitigate the rawness of the tout ensemble. This season, however, owing undoubtedly to the style of bodices being more furnished, we shall not I e compelled to assume even the feather boa unless it meets our pleasure so to do. and one has grown a little tired of it. too, especially since the cheap and nasty arrivals in the market.

We return to the black and white in this figure, which shows a very smart gown of black perforated cloth showing white satin through. The Eton bodice opens over a white satin vest laced across with narrow b'iaek ribbon velvet, the eyelet holes for wh : ch are sewn with black. The perforated cloths are very fascinating, and have great advantage in the matter of retaining their cachet. inasmuch athey are not likely to degenerate into cheap editions. ® ® ® Quite as cool as a blouse of silk, if not more so, would be found the natty little sae coat here depicted. There is a sensation of comfort about tlr-s--loose garments not to be under-valued. This little coat was formed of white drill, but for immediate wear let me cal'i your attention to a similar one which was of pretty coloured box cloth, and boasted a collar and revers

of white stitched satin. It was a dear little coat, and it was only by an act of self-denial worthv of a due and pro|>er reward that 1 abstained from aciding it to my wardrobe, as visions

floated before my imagination of its adaptability for sea-side wear in conjunction with various skirts already in my possession.

A style especially adapted to slender figuies is here pourtrayed. The front and back of waist is laid in half-inch side plaits. Any of the favourite silk, woollen, and cotton fabrics are suitable for this model. A very smart effect is gained by the trimming of the yokes and sleeves with bands of flat trimming.

The •'Bijou” is an excellent pattern for a dainty little home frock, made of any sort of light wool goods, for girls of 4, (>, and 8 years. The yoke and shoulder bretelles are of white, trimmed with braid to match the dress and brass buttons. The body of the frock bangs loosely from the yoke, both in the front and back. A loose, plain coat s'ieeve is used.

An excellent model for a boy’s reefer, which is i lit the favourite length, made double-breasted, and is finished with a rolling sailor collar. Serge, tweeds, cheviots, kersey, or heaver cloth are the materials used, according to the weight desired. Bands of ill-aid and machine stitching are th<- only finish.