THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIV, Issue XXVI, 30 June 1900, Page 1244

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

'QtetSlQraiQtS By

MARGUERITE

Lingerie is as dainty as ever, but less material is used in its construction to meet the demands of the clinging skirt. The present fashion in skirts necessitates having the pettieoat almost, if not quite, touching the ground; and, in fact, many of the smartest underskirts for evening wear are slightly trained. The garment of course, tits as well to the figure as the gown does, but nearly to the knee it is trimmed with flounces, anti if these are of glace silk or soft satin they are usually aceordion-pleated. But should the gown be made on a satin foundation I would advise rather a little sprigged muslin skirt. A plain white shape may be made a dainty evening skirt by sewing on three flounces of pin-spotted muslin, lace-edged, each having a band of insertion at the top. Much as we love to wear white, its monotony in itself demands some variety in treatment. If your evening gown be in some pale shade, your underskirt should match. The evening lingerie, which has only a ribbon shoulder-strap for sleeve, is especially designed for our present style of deeolletage. The nightgowns are almost perfect this year, the more expensive ones being cut square. V shape or with low, round necks, the sleeves coming to the elbow, and instead of the enormous sailor collars and big revers which used to be on the sides they are mostly trimmed with the lacetrimmed ruffles or jabots of lace. One style is distinctly Empire, and is gathered into a drawing string just under the bust. The skirts are long, and unless of the very, very cheap quality, very full. They have ceased to be the shapeless things they used to he, when anything was “good enough to go to bed in.” The Loie Fullers, or umbrella drawers, as they are now called, are wider ami fuller than ever. It takes four yards of embroidery to trim a pair of Loie Fullers to-day. so one may gain some idea of their width from that. These garments were never more ornamental than they are to-day, and are proportionately high-priced. In under-bodices the pretty French baby bodice takes the lead. They are made of very sheer lawn and trimmed with lace insertions, headings and edgings, and with delicate baby ribbons run through their meshes they are certainly very attractive. It is a mistake to buy the cheap ones; they never fit, will drag all out of shape and give no satisfaction. This garment is perhaps the most expensive of any in a woman’s wardrobe, but it is so absolutely necessary under the shirt waist that it is practically indispensable. The old-fashioned chemise is tabooed. It is not even seen on the bargain counters any more. In its place is shown a combination corset cover and underskirt of fine lawn, tucked and ruffled and trimmed with lace. ® ® ® A POSTSCRIPT. DETAIL IS DECIDEDLY PREVALENT. The assumption of the important reins of office taken up by the bolero in matters sartorial this season makes that pleasant little form of adornment an agreeable subject. It and the Eton jacket clash somewhat. their pretensions are so alike and their features so difficult to know apart in many instances; but bolero is the generic term at present for wee jackets, whether sleeved or sleeveless, of all sorts. One sloped out beneath the throat is pretty, the intention in both eases being to display the dainty vest and shirt that go vVith it and the softlyswathed sash belt and rosette that provide a finishing touch. Whether the sleeves are given EPAULETTES, TICKS. PLEATS or are otherwise trimmed, matters not. But the blouse in its original form prospers. Take a hint from the pictured one below, and particularly lend an intelligent eye to the shoulder collar and the neck band, anent which a word or two. The collar is made of Irish linen applique lace, such us has become familiarised to us all in sideboard spreads and coverlets. It is the newest and smartest collar there can be, and Is

suitable alike for children and grownup girls. The collar is banded with ribbon velvet, fixed together in front with little jewels. The old “front brooches” are useful here. ® ® ® Though the comfort and convenience of knickers have been acknowledged by nearly everyone, there are yet a great many women who do not like to abandon petticoats, or a good

substitute, and as such I recommend a divided skirt, like that shown in our sketch. This garment is most delightfully comfortable, possessing the advantages of knickers with the fussy appearance of a petticoat, and can be made in almost any material for day or evening wear. If used for the latter purpose, one or two lace, or laceedged, frills, would be substitued for the cross way one showing in the sketch.

The pattern will take 5A yards of 22-inch or 27-inch material, this including one crossway frill. The garment is arranged at the

back into a shaped band, and thus gives no extra size round the hips. The back part of the side openings will require a wrap sewn on about an inch wide, which must be turned in neatly at the lower part. On each side of the front of the side openings a false hem must be sewn, then turned in at the bottom, and the upper wrap stitched firmly- to this to prevent tearing down. The narrow shaped back-band must Im* cut double, the edges turned in to face, and stitched along on the right side. The back of divided skirt, must be gathered and inserted between the lower edges and sewn firmly in place. Two buttons and buttonholes will be required to fasten the back of the wide band, while three button-holes must be made in the narrow backband—one at each end to fasten to the buttons sewn at the top of the side openings, and one in the centre, this latter to fasten to the lower button of the wide band. This prevents the back slipping down. The bottom can now be turned up evenly, and then hemmed or faced up with material or lining cut to shape. Last of all, the crossway frill can be made, hemmed along the lower edge, the upper one being turned in to form a heading; or it can be put on with a cord. To regulate the fulness divide the frill into quarters, use the long thread for each when gathering, and then divide the bottom of the petticoat into quarters; mark each, and place and draw up each quarter of frill to the corresponding spaces; fasten the thread to a pin; taek along and stitch the frill along the gathered part. ® ® ® SLEEVELESS BOLEROS MAY BE USEFUL. The sketched bolero shown below was chosen because of its graceful attributes from’ quite a number of others seen in a famous modiste’s. It will be noticed that it is made quite separately from the shirt; but let it be added it may be of like material, that is to say, if the jockey effect is one that it not favoured. Some people are now admiring this style again, and it is quite the fashion, but to others it savours too much of eccentricity to be acceptable. The bolero has further points of advantage, inasmuch as it can be added to the costume when the wearer is going out, and is removable in the house, a nice idea for hot weather occasions when we get such. The collar is very prettily made of

lace, with a little black velvet ribbon on the top, and the shirt is full and extremely soft in appearance. A black ribbon velvet waist belt passes through the bolero fastening at the back rather to one side with a bow. and has long ends as well. Much may be and is being done at present with black velvet ribbon to give a special toueh of smartness to any costume.

® ® ® The sky-blue to which we have previously referred is the colour of the very charming gown, for reception or ■semi-dress wear, we have sketched as our subject for this figure. It is expressed in cashmere as to the tunic, bolero, and sleeves, over a shirt and simulated underskirt of white guipure, which also forms novel mittenlike cuffs to the long knuckle sleeves. A narrow black ribbon velvet forms a waisit belt, and straps across the bolero and tunic —all caught by tiny paste buckles on alternate sides. Despite the sombre hues of black, mauve, and grey, at the two first Drawing Rooms there were some very lovely

gowns worn. The trains, so far, were of a more substantial character than the transparent ones of last season, though, later on, they may again of course appear. Exquisite appliques were a marked feature; and a novelty, recently introduced for evening wear, was also shown. This consists of a representation in the. many forms of applique of a flight of birds across the bodice and skirt, applied in the Court gowns to the trains also. ® ® ® As Eton coats are so very useful, and are still popular, I am ing one this week, which is a par-

ticularly smart cut, and is not a difficult garment to make up. It is suitable for serge, cloth, tweed, or any material of this make, either in black, or to match the skirt. About. H yards of 52-inch goods are necessary to cut this coat, and a little more of narrower width. For the lining, either silk, the satinfaeed lining used by tailors, Italian doth, or the new make of “Roman satin" lining, which resembles the latter, but has a more brilliant surface, could be employed. Both the latter wear well. ® ® ®

Aprons can be such ugly looking garments if they are badly cut and in dingy coloups. Housewives who feel the necessity of wearing aprons while busy a I suit the house, and who feel it an equal duty to always look trim and neat while at work, will be delighted with the Rmseella apron, the new princess design given herewith. It is cut to fit the figure as prettily as a tailor gown, and it has a special advantage in the way the pockets are set in the front seams, large, capacious pockets they are, but out of the way of door knobs and pump handles, that are always reaching out to seize and destroy them when left within reach. A full ruffle gives a pretty finish and hides the pocket openings.

The fashionable skirt necessitates the new petticoat, closely fitting at the hips and flaring from the knees.

This pattern, for a girl from eight to twelve years of age, is one that 1 am sure will recommend itself to mothers; it is one. moreover, that I have been asked to illustrate. 1 am sorry that previous requests for other patlerns have prevented it appearing before, but it is a style that will be useful during the whole of the season. As most mothers know, children soon soil their bodices and sleeves, or wear them out. while the skirt with only the ordinary waist band has • dreadful tendency to slip away from the bodice, with a. consequent untidiness round the waist, all of this being completely obviated by the little pointed Swiss bodice attached to the skirt, kept in place by the straps over the shoulder, the style allowing for much variety and change in the bodices. woollen or cotton blouses being worn, as required. The frock, as you see. is exceedingly simple to make up, the most useful material to employ being serge, as a good one wears and washes well, from 2 to 2| yards being sufficient, with about the same amount of linenette for lining. ® ® ® SHIRT-WAIST OF EMBROIDERED FLANNEL. Where yokes are used on shirtwaists this season, they are of the deep. |>ointed variety, the same front and back. A very stylish model for the pointed yoke waist is given in the “Claxton." in all sizes for women and for girls of fourteen and sixteen years. The pattern will be much used for all kinds of wash goods, linen, madras, silk, gingham and dimity, as well as flannel. It launders well and is easily put together. A pretty pattern for light-weight serge skirts to wear with shirt-waists is given in the “Amherst.”