EVERY GIRL HER OWN BEAUTY DOCTOR.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIV, Issue XXIV, 16 June 1900, Page 1145

EVERY GIRL HER OWN BEAUTY DOCTOR.

HOW TO TONE DOWN YOUR BAD POINTS AND IMPROVE YOUR GOOD ONES. A skin of lilies and roses may be im--ossible to all; but one that is clear and healthy is to be universally achieved. One fact the world has lived long enough to prove. It is this: Nothing is more potent as a healthgiver and beautifier (the two states go hand in hand) than exercise. The body as a whole needs it, and the parts of the body taken individually require it, and it must all be exercise specially adapted to separate wants. The kind of treatment the face urgently calls for is massage. This is exercise; the manipulation of the forehead. mouth, chin, cheeks and eyelids influence those features so potently that age is kept at bay, and freshness, beauty of complexion, and even a happy expression, are induced. Cause and effect are so simple here that one wonders that every woman and every girl does not devote a third of her dress-money to the purchase of skilful massage at the hands of reliable beauty-doctors. The word reliable is used with meaning. There are beauty-doctors who are so unscrupulous that, to bring about loveliness that shall last perhaps only a week, they will resort to the most drastic and risky measures. In Paris there is a complexion-maker who actually removes altogether the outer facial cuticle of those patients who are foolish enough to pay for his services. He has the honesty to tell his clients that his method is kill or cure; either it will result in life-long disfigurement or it will render the patient extremely beautiful. Such beauty - producers are very much better left entirely unpatronised. But face treatment that comprises massage, when properly done, is of exquisite benefit. It is rather a vexed question whether it can be accomplished by one’s self, or whether a professional is needed to conduct this most delicious and restful of operations. Miss Sanders, ot 48, Maddox-street, Bond-street, W., who has made a complete study of the subject, says that the treatment can be done at home. But at the same time she distinctly advocates a course being sought from a professional now and then, since it will be more searching. and will teach the house masseue how she should set to work. To give effective message, not only experience but skilled fingers are required. fingers particularly adapted to the delicate manipulations, as well as a good general idea of the anatomy of the face, its muscles, their location, and their special missions. Then, too, it is important that good creams should be used, and that special ones should l>e applied to special needs -for example, to backward eyebrows and eyelashes. One skin is benefited by one cream, another by another. Ik-auty specialists make their own. and keep the recipes a strictly guarded secret. Miss Sanders has gained an enviable reputation for heis. and her eyelash-producer, which also does the eyesight good, is a marvel.

The illustrated hints give a goo.l idea of what is meant. Read them and practice the movements they illustrate at the same time. After the cheeks, forehead, chin and nose are carefully smeared with the skin-food,

the kneading should begin. This movement is not merely a rubbing round and round in small circles, but an inward movement as well. Remember that the muscles close to the bone must be revived and exercised, and that kneading does not mean a brisk pummelling of the skin alone. The circles should be small, but as the fingers sweep back to the starting point they must sink well into the flesh. The picture shows this movement plainly.

Always have the muscles relaxed during massage treatment. Try, too, when going to bed. to relax your muscles —facial and otherwise. You will then really rest. The small lines running like accordion pleats between the eyes should be subjected to much the same treatment as that spoken of already for lines in the forehead. The kneading must be upwards towards the hair. The sketch shows how the experienced masseuse picks up a little fold of flesh and rubs it between her finger-tips until the line becomes too discouraged to care to exist.

There are any number of forms ot massage which are used for lines across the brow. The kneading motion described already, and seen in illustration No. 1, is the first one used. After that the treatment shown in the above sketch is brought into play. This movement is a difficult one to learn, but it can be mastered with perseverance. and is the most effective massage movement that has ever been tried. 'l'he four fingers of either hand are placed so that a fold running crosswise of the wrinkle is picked up. While the fingers of the left hand push their way slowly across the forehead, the fingers of the right rub up and down like a smoothing-iron. As the hands make their way from one side of the forehead to the other, the little fold goes too. It is never allowed to disappear. When kneading let the general direction taken be upwards and outwards. See to it that enough skinfood is applied so that the tender cuticle will not be bruised.

It is really remarkable what splendid results come from massaging the mouth. The picture shows how the lingers are placed. The first finger Is

put just under the nostrils, just above the centre of the upjx'r Up. This finger stays where it is, but the thumb ami second finger, which are placed ar either end of the upper lip. are moved up towards the centre finger with energy and swiftness. You can see that the mouth is thus made into a nice little Cupid’s bow. Much can be done to impiove a mouth that is too large by keeping it in the best possible pose, and making the muscles firmer by doing an exercise which is best described as. “imitation smiley.” Stretch the mouth to the limit, showing the teeth slightly, relax and repeat. This, by the way. is a means of massage which needs no fingers.

These lines, like all others, should first be treated 1o a little kneading, as described in the beginning of these directions for massage. 'The picture will show you how the flesh* is picked up, first in one place and then in another. The flesh is not rolled, for that destroys the tissues and reduces the fatly cushions; but it is picked up quickly, given a little rub with the tip’of the finger, and sent about its business, while |the next section of the line is tackled. A professional operator finds little difficulty in removing these lines. This article simply comprises a series of hints to the woman who wishes to give herself treatment, in the fond hope that certain peace-de-stroying lines and creases, puffy eyelids, hollow cheeks, and such annoyances will pack up and depart. It is not every woman who can afford even the thirty shillings required for a course of treatment at Miss Sanders's hands, though if the benefits of such a course were perfectly understood the price of one hat or half a dress would be sacrificed gladly to procure it. Really and truly, every woman, say, of thirty should set aside a third of her pin-money for the preservation of her beauty; and almost every one of forty would do well to spend half as much again on her face treatment, her corset-maker, her hairdresser, her dentist, and her manicurist. This is a day of details. Would every woman comprehended the fact! The good derived from home treatment comes from its regularity and constant, everlasting pursuance of well-advocated plans. It takes years of time, or months of bad health, to cause the tissues of the face to be* come flabby and the muscles to relax and assume the doleful droops and tear-wringing hollows that are so sad and yet so faithful in theii attentions. How then can these same muscles be strengthened and these hollows plumped out in a few weeks*.’ Il is impossible! Should you resolve to benefit by home treatment, then, you must take constancy as your watchword, and never look back mee you have entered on the campaign. Of course, it is not necessary Icr me to tell you that tin* habits that have caused the lines to come must cease at once. I make one exception. Some beauty specialists will forbid you to laugh even, indeed, to smile. But I love the tender, merry little puckers that play about the eyes ami mouths of those who take life cheerily. Such I would not raise a linger to rub out. 'They are best and most lovable of Time's manipulations, eloquent of a sunny disposition, a heart that is true and kind. a life's pilgrimage that has walked always on the bright side of the street, and has helped others to choose the path thal makes for peace. But if it is customary with you to scowl when tin* kitchen dors not semi

the cutlets in time for luncheon, or to frown when the housemaid breaks a cup. you must kindly alter your tal - lies. or I can promise you no real consolation from my counsel. Now to particulars. The face treatment given by Olive Sanders begins with a thorough steaming; she uses a kettle ami a particular tonic of her own t contain ing. I believe, benzoin, one of tin* most useful of astringents when properly used. Previously she has bound a while cloth, nun-fashion, across the hairline on the forehead, so that no unguent shall interfere with the crisp ness and prettiness of the coiffure. Now. these kettles can he bought, and the steaming be done at home b\ their means. But there is a cheaper way of getting' the effect, by simply pouting boiling water into a basin, and add ing a few drops of simple tincture of benzoin to it; taking a bath towel. [Hitting it over one's head and tin basin, and with shut eyes staying in the steam for about four or live minutes. Women with greasy skins and those afflicted badly with blackheads may steam once a week or fortnight not ol tenor, unless their work is particularly clogging to the pores. They must always proceed with the massage afterwards, to counteract the severity of the steaming treatment. which, by the way, takes the place ol hot water and soap. Soap shotiid never, never be used on tin* lace. Remember that. A nice skinfood is next wanted, for the countenance must be anointed with the emollient, which is to be carefully and well rubbed into the cuticle. Do not take a mountain of the cream and dab it on the cheeks in the mistaken notion that by being’ generous you are ensuring success. The skin cannot and will not absorb more than it requires, so a little on the fingertips is all that you need. A good recipe is this one (it is called very prettily “o range-flower” cream): Of white wax and spermaceti take half an ounce each; of oil of sweet almonds take two ounces. Melt these ingitdients oxer the fire in a porce-lain-hued pan; then remove the pan liom the fire, and add one ounce of orange-flower water and three drop* ot simple tincture of benzoin. Ik at all this briskly an egg-whisk does the work well until it, begins to harden, and pot it ready for use. I.e very sure that the white wax and spermaceti are of the precise weight inentiomd, and that the oil of sweet ‘‘lniouds is of the best and finest quality procurable. s , h >»■ tutted, by the way, that Uns eream may be used at any 1,11,1 « "ill be found partieu larly valuable to those whose faces tlnme after being- washed with water I'at'Kuhu-ly in the evening-, when theatre. 1 ' ,h " Omit using water on sm-h exeitinoccasions, ami instead apply the meain. 'tour towel will prove t<> you much dust and grime the emollient removes. Apply it tenderly, though sea reh i ugly, ami take it off ‘•ompletely with a piece of soft „hl handkerchief. rubbing the face ovei afterwards with ehaimns leather prevent any vestige of „ro-i«. si ’ M H'e.tse or © ® © HOW TO TREAT V()|r WIFE. (By One Who Knows.) WITH REGARD To GIVING PRESENTS. Don't, if you want to please your wife with an unexpected present,' set lie upon a hat or a bonnet as a suitable offering. In the first plaee, though you may know from the look ol the thing in the shop window, whether you like it or not, you cannot possibly be expected to know if it is the very latest style. Even supposing you could successfully surmount this initial difficulty, unless you were an artist of exceptional genius, possessing a remarkablyretentive brain, you would get floored over the colour. You might take a

fancy to a pink thing with a crowd of roses all a growing and a-blowing which your wife would disdain to put There is another thing about presents. Don't judge your wife's tastes by your own, or you may give her something which she won't like at all. A box of chocolates is about as safe as anything, and if in doubt jujubes* might be tried. A new pair of gloves will generally prove acceptable. if you tell the shopman they are for a lady he will give you the latest thing. If she doesn't like them you can say. tranquilly. "Well, my dear girl, it isn't my fault. I left it to the man in the simp.” If you get the wrong size—tts you probably will—it does not matter: she can change them next day. Only if you can't remember what number her gloves are, buy fixe and a half. And say innocently. “Not big enough? They look twice the size of those dear little hands.” If she reads much you cannot bring her a better present than a new book. Not the latest novel, but some little classic which is well worth reading for the hundredth time and which seems to have derived new lite from it fresh binding. A bunch of Howers for the table, or a posy of violets to wear will please her. She misses the buttonholes yo r gave her when you were courting, aim she is too honourable to buy them fot herself out of the housekeeping money . I don't mean you should ruin yourself at an expensive florist's. A coup.e ol rosebuds ora homely bunch of pansie = will give her more delight than cost!, hothouse blooms. It's the thought that counts. A man 1 know bri igs hi ; wife a button-hole every Saturday n'wht for Sundav. Onee when h wa where he couldn't liny any for love or monev In gathered her a. bunch ot wild ones and she wore them as proml lv as if thev had been orchids. 1 h cost of the gift is less than the love which prompts it is all that matters. Most women would sooner theii hus bands brought them home a silver bangle when they had been away than tossed a five pound note across the table with a curt “Get yourself any thing vou want.” © © © HOW TO TRAIN SERVANTS. HOUSEMAID OR PARLOURMAID. (By White Heather.) As the care of a’il plate, glass and table linen falls to the share of the parlourmaid, the pantry should contain all that is requisite for her use. To keep the silver entrusted to her in excellent condition, it is necessary for her to wash it after each meal in very hot water, into which has been placed a small quantity of common soda. She should soap a good sized piece of flannel and proceed to wash each article separately, ami to wipe them with a di y cloth wh?ie they are still hot; and before placing each in the plate basket, she is to rub them with a chamois leather. Washed in this manner, and cleaned with plate-powder once a week, all silver will keep in perfect order. The glass should be washed in warm, soapy water, then wiped dry. and afterwards polished with a selvyt kept for the pin pose. I he parlourmaid should take great pride in the laying of tiie table, and never be sloven'iy in any detail, however small. Ihe tablecloth should be spotless and without wrinkles, and the glass and silver, poiislied to their utmost bri Ilia ncy. In wai ing at table she must pay threat attention to the wants of each individual. Nothing is so bad as to be repeated1\ asking the servant for what one Half the success of a dinner is due to good waiting. Ihe parlourmaid should study neatness, and be quirt in fulfi'ding her •hiti( s. *Her afternoon dress must be black, and devoid of trimmings; it should just reach to the ground. Iler’ aprons are best laige, not made of lawn, and not too elaborate, for. if thev are so. they are soon damaged at the laundry, ami then look shabby. Plain white caps, with double goffered frills, and turn down cuffs and collars, complete her outfit.

It is very necessary that the parlourmaid should clearly anil projierly give the names when announcing visitors, so as t.i avoid awkward mistakes. In most households the table linen is kept in repair by the parlourmaid. This will require great attention. Everything must be carefully inspected on its return from the laundry, and anything damaged, however slightly, should be laid on one side to be mended. When cleaning any grates, gloves must always be worn by the servant, as, unless this is done, the paint of the doors will suffer at her hands. The drawing room carpet should be brushed with a small brush and the dust swept into a pan; this is better than if a long, stiff broom be used. An abundance of c*iean cloths will be required in the preparation of a room, because each ornament must be carefully removed and dusted. Heather brushes are the best for pictures. It is well to cover up as much as possible of the furniture with clean dust sheets. If the parlourmaid has the care of the flowers, she should aim at lightness, remembering that a few fresh flowers artistically arranged 1 are far more pleasing that a quantity massed together. I iny ferns sold in small pots at twopence each, if placed in white china pots, produce a very fresh and pleasant effect. ' Among the requirements of a parlourmaid are that she should be able to cut thin bread and butter, and dainty sandwiches—the necessary adjuncts to the five o’diock teas. l-'or this purpose the knife should be very sharp, and if the bread is new, she should, before commencing cutting, place the blade for a few seconds in boiling water, when the bread can be evenly sliced. 3 o take out stains in decanters it is a good plan to place in the bottom of each a quantity of tea leaves and to fill up with soap suds, leaving in them the. mixture for a few hours, when the stains can easily be removed. Port wine stains on table linen can be taken out by at once pouring on them a little sherry; and salt apffiied immediately is good for stains from all kinds of wine. Stains of fruit may' also be removed by rubbing the part on each side with yellow soap. Then lay on a mixture of starch in cold water very thick; rub it well in and expose the linen to the sun and air till the stain comes out. ® ® ® WHEN PATTI SINGS. The following lines were written (in French) by Adelina Patti in response to a request that she would describe, briefly , her feelings while singing: “I have never been able to take proper account of my feelings during those few moments. I know that oil the day of the performance I am nervous and agitated, and as the time draws nearer and nearer, I suffer more and more from stage fright. “When the moment arrives for me to leave my room and go before the footlights, my whole being is dominated put a sensation of abject terror. My feelings while 1 am actually singing defy analysis; they differ according to the role the number of artistes around me, ete.- -they are so varied that I simply cannot describe them. I should be obliged to enter into all the many details which, petty as they may be, at times impress us ver'v strongly. When all goes well, I experience a something which carries me away and I forget where I am.”