The "Cavalier" in the West Coast Sounds N.Z.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIV, Issue XIX, 12 May 1900, Page 888

The "Cavalier" in the West Coast Sounds N.Z.

Our party arrived al Riverton, our point of departure, about 3.30 p.m., and had a good look at. the eraft, a tore and aft schooner of 55 tons, which was evidently a vessel well suited for our requirements. So putting our luggage on board we adjourned to the Club Hotel for tea. After tea we returned to the ship, set Io work and fitted up our beds, but the drizzling rain making us somewhat dept cssed, we decided to turn in early. About 11.30 p.m. that night we had a visit from the Riverton Boers, who came down on ns. pulling the peak halyard and desired to come on board. Meanwhile they sang in great disorder “Soldiers of the Queen” and other patriotic songs extended with screeches and cat calls. 'l'he commodore. who came on deck at this moment, asked what it all meant, and desired the captain to order them oft’. The skipper too seemed to desire peace, aid ordered them to go quietly away, but the leader wanted the best man to bring up some, of the good stuff we had on board for them to taste. There were cries of “Come on! Out with it! We know you've got some good stuff,” etc., followed by our responses from the vessel: “Your singing can’t hurt us anyhow,” while one daring tourist threatened io come upon the wharf and hammer their best man, which made things more rowdy than ever, until the commodore expressed the desire to put

an eml to things by giving them a dtop of whisky, which the Boers agreed would have to be done to put things right. The Riverton lads then retired singing “For they are jolly good fellows, and so are all of us." and wishing us meanwhile ' i mighty good time of it.” About 3 a.m. we were awakened by the unusual pitching of the vessel, and ascertained that we wete off and about to cross the bar, a performance which led to some fear below’, one young fellow exclaiming loudly, “iVe’ll have to get wrecked if -t's worse than this. Things quickly quietened down, however,, and the quiet monotonous rolling, the creaking of the masts and beams, and other sounds so familiar to sea life lulled us into a feverish sleep. A pleasant day was spent visiting the lighthouse at Puysegur Point fishing for Cray fish, photographing, etc., and later on in the day the mining centre at Te Oneroa was in view’, and we anchored near the wharf. From here we sailed over to Cuttie Cove, perhaps the most pleasing recess in the inlet, offering every inducement to the searfisheir in the shape of cod. crayfish, butterfish, skate. Close in shore a beautiful sight mav be seen. Looking down on the bottom the rocks present every possible shade of brown, red, and purple gray mingled with varied shades of the complementary colours. The colours, softened by the transparent water, equal the most, extravagant array on any artist’s palette. The

morning following was spent here, the vessel getting away after lunch, with the hope of reaching Chalky Inlet before the night set in. In this we were somewhat disappointed, as the wind shifted and fell, when good progress was required to enable us to combat the tide setting in, but the craft, and better still the captain, were used to these inconveniences, and we reached the soul It head (Gulches) after many tacks. Seme signs of industry were seen here, for the hum of a sawmill was heard, and we. saw from the deck some fine red and white pines well distributed in the bush, which seem ed very dense. To satisfy our ambitious photographers we set. out for one of the further inlets, offering a better view of the mountains of the interior, but the trip proved unsuccessful, thin rain clouds and a dull light supervening. Having regard to the name of the locality—Chalky or Dark Cloud Inlet—we fully expected a wetting, and were not disappointed, for on the following day we experienced a change in the weather.

The clouds were heaped up against the higher country and broken into rugged heaps, while broken masses of mist, pierced here and there with sunlight, quickly hid the opposite shore. Then there fell around us large hail stones, churning up the water, accompanied by brilliant lightning flashes and loud thunder peals. We fancied the place, had been well named. About midday a bright sunlight again lit up the water. Rowing was indulged in by a number of our party around the inlet back to the vessel, and a substantial tea, followed by games of euchre, crib, draughts, etc., finished up a day as pleasant ate any one could desire. While bowling along a slight accident occurred, the mainsail gaff breaking off close to the chock, and we hail to lower the mainsail to enable the captain to effect repairs, which he soon did with the assistance of a heavy hammer and some large nails. Here fine views of Breaksea Sound and Dusky Sound were spread out before us, the latter made memorable by its associations with Captain Cook’s visit. The large island separating the sounds mentioned. Resolution Island, was also named by Cook after one of his ships. During the later survey of the Sounds by the Admiralty steamer Acheron, the brother of the captain of the tendering schooner Otago captured the first of the Tnhake birds (Notornis Muntelli) and purchased by Dr. Mantell,

who was in Southland at the time, effecting the purchase from the natives of the Murihiku block. Only three other specimens have been secured, the last over a year ago by Mr Ross, the Government guide for Te Anau, and is now in the possession of the Colonial Government, who secured it for £250. Milford Sound

was reached at noon, and as the breeze was most favourable we entered with the speed of a steamboat, passing in the usual order Stirling Falls, the Lion, Mitre Peak, ami cuickly opening- out Harrison's Cove and the high glacier of Pembroke, and lay to under the Bowen Falls. It was arranged to spend a week

here, but the first thing for all hands to do was to make a call on Mr Sutherland, the hermit of the Sound. Here we sat down to a sumpt no.is repast, which had been prepared in expectation of tourists by the U.S.S. Co.’s steamer from Melbourne hut in our case we proved the principle of “first come, first served." There-

after we settled down each to his individual tastes, some fishing, some walking, and quite a. number proceeding to the Sutherland Falls, that eighth wonder of the world. These last came back full of most enthusiastic praise of the falls ami surrounding scenery. (To be continued.)