THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIII, Issue XVI, 14 October 1899, Page 700

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGUERITE

Weddings are always in fashion, but of all times of the year for sueh festivities I suppose just now is the most popular. You see it is springtime. Nature puts on her newest garb, and we with one aecord do likewise. Spring is for many reasons the best time of year for the young bride to start her new life. The ‘‘new beauties" of her trousseau will be ready for the summer season and the garden parties, while her newly furnished house will show its dainty et ceteras to the best advantage, in face of the early sun. before the dull weather of winter has soiled their freshness.

I propose this week to devote my

notes to wedding costumes, which are always interesting, whether we look at marriage either prospectively or retrospectively. Some hints may also be obtained from the costumes given for choosing chic reception and out-door dresses for other than brides. Although we read of white satin and point lace, or some expensive variation of these beautiful fabrics in connection with wedding dresses, let no one run away with the impression

that manufacturers are so shortsighted as to consider only the needs of those able to pay for satin and point. As a matter of fact, not one bride in a hundred can afford satin of the first grade, to say nothing at all about real lace. There are. however. a great many pretty silks, both crispy and soft and clinging; the latter to my way of thinking are very lovely. Then this spring there is the notable revival of crepons. They are not the huge blistered crepons of last season, but have much more finely “ereped" surfaces, and in white are very pretty. Among muslins there are a great many to choose from, and no light material looks more charm-

ing when deftly designed to suit the lines of the plump bride-elect or the slender figure of the willow-like girl. It was customary up till recently to swathe all brides to the ears, but now some brides appear with fronts of collars cut to the base of the neck and elbow sleeves, that is, the sleeve just turns over the elbow joint after the style of several years ago. Round bodices and trimmed skirts. Princess effects, and gowns with overskirt draperies, in all-prevading tunic style, are the principal styles, but all of

A feature of the transparent train is its lining, which must be of a diaphanous material to preserve the character of the novelty. If trains we must have, these new ones are certainly most commendable, being

them are capable of so many variations there is no need for anyone to dress unbecomingly. The transparent train is a novelty of this year. It is to the popularity of lace and all kinds of gauze-like materials. such as chiffon, crepe de Chine, and mousseline de soie. that the transparent train owes its inception. Instead of the heavy silk and satin, something light and fairy-like is substituted, and the effects aimed at are floating masses and a wonderful elusive grace, graceful as well as comfortable. A bridal gown worn at a recent London wedding was of ivory satin under an overskirt of Honiton lace. The court train fastened on one side from the shoulder, and from the waist at the other, and consisted of the finest silk embroidery, outlined in seed pearls, and mounted on silk muslin with an interlining of fine book muslin. The whole train weighed something infinitesimal as compared with the rich brocaded ones to which we have long been accustomed.

Among the most important articles of the trousseau is a. suitable reception gown, in which the bride can receive her callers after her return from the honeymoon, and a teagown.

The trousseau of to-day differs from that of the last generation in that it contains only what the bride-elect is going to need the first season following her marriage. Clothes change style nowadays so rapidly, not only in hats, wraps, and gowns, but in the shapes of shoes, petticoats, etc., that the wise woman does not provide any more of anything than she has practically immediate use for. A novel idea for the bridesmaid's costume is a long tulle veil fastened at one side of the hair with a rosette of tulle and an aigrette or a bunch of flowers. presumably violets, as violets seem to be a fashionable colour for weddings. A pretty idea was carried out at a wedding at Home. Across the aisle where 'the pews end there extended beautiful gates of pink roses. These were swung open by a little girl in a pink tulle frock, with a flower-laden hat. and closed after the bridal procession. shutting them all into the space about the altar. The little girl remained as gate-keeper through the service, and when the bride turned to leave the altar after the service she swung them open again. THE BRIDESMAID’S FROCK. Is of sulphur coloured muslin over very pale mauve chiffon—a sort of Orchid combination—the under-skirt aecordioned. and vest tucked. Tiny tucks also head the frilled edgings of muslin, and the waist-tie is of pale mauve satin. The hat is a tuscan “Trelawny,” with rosettes of mauve pansies and sulphur coloured feathers.

The race gowns of this year may certainly be considered some of the most beautiful ever prepared. Everyone seems determined to provide themselves wth something that should beat previous records. This is composed of the most delicate pearl-grey crepe de Chine, with perforated designs (showing white satin underneath), edged with embroiderings of

silver paillettes, and tiny brilliants mingled witjh gold threads. The under bodice, or yoke, and upper sleeves, and the skirt below the tablier or tunic consists of a series of small frills of pearl-grey mousseline de soie. It is hardly possible to exaggerate the delicate beauty of these embroidered gowns, which have been so favoured for fete wear this season

in the palest shades of grey and all the .most beautiful summer fabrics. Their cost is alarming, but their beauty undeniable. This would also make a charming bridesmaid's frock. Parasols have come in for much attention ami lavishing of (frills and furbelows of all the filmy laces and chiffons so dear to the feminine heart at the present moment. One of the smartest we have seen just lately accompanies the gown, and was a billowy mass of poppy-colour-ed mousseline, with silk floppies intermingled. © © ©