IN SAMOA AFTER THE WAR.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIII, Issue XVI, 14 October 1899, Page 693

IN SAMOA AFTER THE WAR.

The Impressions of a Ten Day s Visit

(By

C.L.)

11. There are several things which the visitor to Samoa must do. providing the place is not under martial law, ami his or her liberty curtailed. Perhaps the. most important is a visit to the residence of the late R. L. Stevenson. With the Britisher who claims a love for his country’s literature, this excursion assumes almost the proportion of a. pilgrimage. In the present instance it fluctuated from the borderlands of farce to the precincts of tragedy. In the first place we agreed on the previous day about making the excursion, and with a forethought truly commendable, engaged ponies for the expedition. The day broke exceptionally tine, and, although it v as the winter season, by nine o’clock we were fully aware that the atmosphere was developing into a cross between a baker's oven and a Turkish bath. Under the circumstances it was thought inadvisable for the ladies to attempt riding, and the initial difficulty presenting itself was what was to be done with the ponies that had been the day before engaged at six shillings a head? There being no possible way of avoiding tin encounter with the ponies and their native owners, one unfortunate member of the party was told off to compromise matters. The only possible course open was to abuse the specimens of horseflesh provided, and this the ambassador did. forcibly pointing out that the owners must have departed their senses when they expected anyone to mount such sorry specimens. It was demonstrated beyond the possibility of contradiction that they might easily be mistaken for clothes horses, or profitably employed as hat racks. A plentiful and rig-hteous flow of invective having thoroughly disabused the minds of the natives of any misconceptions they cherished as to their rights to live, the persuasive influence of a bob apiece finally disposed of the horse episode. SAMOAN PROCRASTINATION. Being used to carrying out business matters with comparative expedition it never occurred to us that there would be any difficulty in obtaining conveyances, as traps — of a sort — are proportionately as plentiful in Apia as in Hyde Park. The experience of the succeeding- few hours quite convinced us that time is of absolutely no value in Samoa, and that any arrangement you may want to make had much better be started a few weeks ahead. We were unfortunate in finding that it was the day on which every white man in Apia makes up and delivers his accounts- It is admissible to do nothing through the four weeks; but, if you are to retain your self respect, at the end of the period you must rake up an account or preferably two, and serve It or them on some person or persons. So when

xve came to engage vehicles we quickly discovered that everyone was preternaturally busy, and that the majority were absent with their traps doling out their bills. A good nat tired native with an eye on the white man's shillings. eventually offered to find the accommodation, and during his hour’s absence we sat on the hotel verandah and sj>eciila.ted on the unmitigated curse that flies in Samoa are. and on whether some lighter clothing could not. be invented than white drilling for a climate where the sun observes no kind of moderation. When we had subsided almost into a dose we were rudely startled by finding our native friend driving up to the hostelry in a tremendous waggon, adapted for. and which looked as if it was used as. a manure cart. How could the villain believe that we would go driving with two furry horses in such a conveyance was our simultaneous thought. The sinister Mongolian owner and driver on alighting explained that this was not the vehicle. He went on to say that he had “a welly nicey flap.” When he came to explain that it would take him an hour to procure it. (it was then 11 o'clock), and that he would like a modest 10 dollars or thereabouts for its hire till sundown, we were forced to the conclusion that he was a near relative or else a proficient pupil

of Bret Harte’s Heathen Chinee. We politely but firmly intimated to him that we had no wish to buy his vehicle. The owner of the “welly nicey flap” sat down with an apologetic air on the edge of the verandah, well in view, evidently anticipating that the expenditure of the last remnant of our patience would result in his trap being engaged at his own extortionate price. However, in the end he had to retire disappointed, for two ancient two-seated buggies eventually arrived, and into them xve bundled, while No. 5 of the party elected to mount one of tin* four legged oddities known as horses. The Mongolian cast on us a plaintive lock, crawled into his manure cart, and wended ms wax. SOMETHING A BOTT SAMOAN HOUSES AND A WATEkI’ALL. I'here can hardlx* be in Samoa, .a parallel to the Spanish proverb which runs, “do not spur a willing horse." for the simple reason that there would never be any application for it. The only willingness our particular horses showed was in connection with stopping. One being of \loho mme.l.i 11 religious tendencies, turned his face toward Mecca and went down on his knees. By the time that he had been

|>ersiiade<l that the occasion and surroundings were inappropriate for indulging in religious exercises, a. shaft

had been broken and sundry other minor damage done. With this exciting incident as an ap|>etiser, we <*ani|M*d for lunch in one of the prettiest spots imaginable- Situated deep down among the trees. the waters of

a fair sized stream dash over a jet black Lava bed to a fall of 20 feet, known as Papalaloa. Both the cascade and fall are remarkably pretty. Above the fall is a picturesque pool, and beside the basin which the falling" water has scooped out. an overhanging rock, from which the natives jump. A seeneiy conservation society or a deserving paternal government has done everything* within their power to make Papalaloa. a delightful pienitground. and truth to tell they have succeeded admirably. It was quite with a feeling of regret that we remembered that the real object of our excursion was ahead, and that if we wete to see Vailima and its envioroits comfortably, a move must be made. The drive o»er the gently rising grass grown roads has its beauty, but this is largely wasted on the driver of a vehicle, for his eyes have to be glued to the road. Any neglect means eertai i Lumping oxer stones approaching boulder size, to the detriment of one’s nerves and the sufficient lx burdened springs of a trap which, if up to Samoan average, has long since discarded any pristine beauty it max have ever possessed. THE LATE R. L. STE VKNStIN'S HOME. Vailima has. during the few x ea.i s since its famous owner's death, become almost a wilderness. 'l'hc luxuriant growth common to the tropics has blotted out the plantations, and only an occasional straggling cocoa < r other introduced tree, choked by the rapidly grow ing undergrow t h. afford-s-addeidng evidence of the labour of years. I he great Oregon pine house, with its broad verandahs and balconx - , bears the stamp of a marked personality. Judging' solely from the vagaries of arrangement, one would be inclined to say further that it was a personality tinged with ecrent rici. x. Now the great house, with the exception of a couple of fuj Hished roomoccupied by the caretaker, is desolate and empty. The large bare diningroom. with its red stained walls, the massive plain staircast* leading’ to the Upper Story, and the x iea.nt shelving wh.ch covi'i’s the walls of the spacious but irregularly shaped study, all speak of a loneliness in strong contrast to the picture that imagination paints of a past da\. The loneliness is one of pathetic memories, and the rooms convey so x ix icily tm- feeling of a pervading presence as to ineline'the superstitious to the belief that thex are hauntedVailima affords tin* most dramatic evidence of the late war. In front a tremendous hole in the ground shoxvs where a shell burst. The upstairs rooms* of the house are littered with splinters of xvood. while jagged Indus in the xvalls and roof mark tin* ingress ■ nd egress of shells. \ naval oHmer informed me that it was estimatedthal

over four shells had passed through the building', but whatever their nuniIht. the damage done was pitiably extensive. Erotn the naval [stint of viewno doubt the scarred ap|ieara.nee of Vailima is a matter for eongratillation, as it is irrefutable proof of th accuracy of the warships’ shooting, as during the battle of Vailima the house was the objective. The place has passed into the hands of .1 German gentleman, and its future disposal seems uncertain. The house it is likely will be pulled down, and a more convenient one. having the advantage of costing less to maintain, substituted. In tin grounds the work of Stevenson has been obliterated by a few years' neglect, and with the removal of the house will pass away practically the last link of association. There is one strand, however, which will inviolably connect Stevenson's name with Samoa, and that the hand of man will not remove nor the influence of nature in the ordinary course obliterate for centuries. That is the TOMB OX THE HILL above the house. It is situated on a spur of the mountain, which from the

water appears to lower over Apia. It must be fully seven hundred feet above sea level. When we questioned our guide about visiting it he gravely assured us that the excursion was one which, besides being of the most fatiguing description, would take between two and three hours. At the house they differed from this estimate, considering three-quarters of an hour an ample allowance for tin* run up and down again. The VaiJhna plantation was the scene of the only really determined fight during the late war, and our guide, who, behind a smiling and inquisitive exterior must have had a bloodthirsty nature, pointed out a sickening sign of the conflict while en route for the grave. Il was a few hundred yards from the house close by a small stream of clear water rippling quietly over a stony bed. Here some- wounded wretch had stopped in his retreat either to bathe* his injuries or assuage his thirst. An extensive patc h of dark stain close* by the* edge of the stream showed that he* was bleeding considerably, and this our guide* pointed out with gh*e. Charlie* had his good points, but his constitution was evidently tinctured with the Somoan lose* of a little* bloodshed. In this respect he* resembled a gentleman we* met later on on Manona, who, in z graphically describing the modus operand*! employed with the head » knife, summarised, in broken English, the* proc-ess from the spectacular point of view by characterising it as quite

the most Iteautiful sight to be seen in Samoa. This individual had a longing to do a little head chopping, which, while quite pathetic in its earnestness, effectually prevented myself submitting to his suggestion of an illustration on my own |>ersoii. 1 felt that his misguided enthusiasm might unintentionally end in too realistic an exhibition for my own comfort. Charlie was of the same kidney,and in an open laughing way he gloated over those blood stains. When the ascent of the hill was fairly underway we began to have grave doubts as to whether it had not been better to have accepted. in a child-like spirit, the assertion of Charlie that the excursion was too lengthy to be attempted. The ascent is perhaps not as steep as the side of a house, but it nearly approaches it. while the arduous nature of the climb is intensified by the faet that there is no variation in the grade. It is one steep, uninterrupted scramble by a faintly-marked zig-zag track, and the only thing to be thankful for is that the mountain is covered by heavy bush, which provides grateful shade. Once at the summit of the spur we sat down on the tomb in varying stages of exhaustion. Charlie, whose inher-

ent laziness had made him suggest a variety of obstacles to our negotiating the ascent, had not so much as turned a hair, and when we were sufficiently recovered to take a languid interest in our surroundings we immediately broke the tenth Commandment in regard to his physique. The grave is covered by a recumbent mass of concrete, which must weigh very many tons. The lower part is an immense oblong block at least 12 feet by 6 feet, and 2 feet 6 inches high. Surmounting it is a block onwhich are copper plates (in English and Samoan) bearing, besides the usual inscription recording the date of death, tie now well-known lines: — Under the broad and starry sky Dig my grave and let me lie. Glad did 1 live and gladly die. And 1 lay me down with a will. This be the verse ye grave for me— Here he lies where he longed to be. Home is the sailor, home from the sea, And the hunter, home from the hill. Here, on the summit of a lonely spur, overlooking the Pacific from an island which is after all but a speck in its boundless waste, is the last resting place of one of Britain's great sons. Overshadowed by immense trees, the site is one of splendid isolation, and few whose names deserve a place on the nation’s long scroll of fame have found a grave more strangely situated or more divinely peaceful. A TROPICAL STORM. Tropical climates are uncertain, and by the time that we had physically

recovered sufficiently to give a thought to the associations of the spot about which we were grouped a few ominous drops came as a premonition of an uncomfortable experience to follow. Stumbling, sliding, laughing, and yet grumbling, we made that descent in a tithe of the time that the upward journey had occupied, and yet ere we reached the base the rain had commenced in earnest. The large drops falling through the Cppressive atmosphere momentarily increased in number till by the time we were under the verandah at the Vailima homestead the only comfortable member was the simply-clad Charlie, whose lava lava, though soaked, did not entail the discomfort engendered by a let of clinging and saturated European clothing. We stood and dismally watched the pelting rain falling with tropical exuberance. and our spirits were not in the least raised by a confident statement that the downpour might continue unabated till morning. Charlie, like a true philosopher, discovered a dry banana leaf cigarette in some mysterious corner of his lava lava, and, squatting on the verandah, commenced to smoke, quietly awaiting a declaration of our pleasure. Being already wet. we determined on proceeding. and made a bee-line for the traps at the end of the garden. After a few minutes’ exposure to the teeming downpour, we quickly discovered that there are shades of wetness. Colours in ties and hat-bands began to blend in one dull unprepossessing tint, and unstable red dye coursed down white clothes in a manner unpleasantly suggestive of mortal wounds. At each step shoes and boots emitted water in tiny fountain-like streams, and saturated soles of socks acted on soddened leather after the most approved suction pump principle. The wet seemed to penetrate the skin, and to induce a feeling that the proportion of moisture in the system had been unduly swelled. Brims of hats lost all moral stamina and drooped in the most grotesque and unprincipled manner. Worst of all. papers and letters were converted into much the kind of pulp from which they were originally evolved. Soaked to the marrow, wretchedly uncomfortable, and in mortal terror of fever as a not unlikely consequence, we arrived back in Apia under auspices different from those which marked our setting out. The fact that the lowering sky was breaking and the passing of the storm imminent was naturally not conducive to restoration of already severely tried tempers, and Charlie, plaeid and smiling, was the only person who appeared unruffled. Dog tired, but knowing that there were to be a number of naval officers to dinner and a musical evening in prospect, the outlook was uninviting. Ladies, however, very- often have real downright British pluck and determination very largely developed, and in this instance, if that evening was not a success, the fact was not due to their collapse. Midnight saw everyone on deck, where a magnificent pyrotechnic display was in progress. The Tutanekai ushered in July 4 at Samoa right royally with the booming of dynamite bombs and the hissing- of big ships’ rockets. The joke of the business was that the crews of the U.S. Badger and Brutus, in whose honour Captain Post had thoughtfully arranged his display, were peacefully sleeping, oblivious

alike of the loud - sounding bombs, coloured-star-discharging-rockets, and the long sticks, which the gentle land breeze carried in their descent close

to the American ships. So the sole witnesses of New Zealand’s tribute to Uncle Sam were the officers of H.M.s. Tauranga, who had been spending the evening on the Tutanekai. the company of the latter, and a few belated shoreites whom the flies, mosquitoes, or Macbeth-like consciences denied sleep to. Perchance the Americans, melodiously snoring with nasal intonation. were blissfully dreaming of the fun awaiting them on the fourth, unaware that the anniversary had already broken, and that a march had been stolen by the New Zealanders. JULY 4 IN APIA. Never was 4th of July more royally or amusingly celebrated by any collection of freeborn citizens of the country over which waves the Stars and Stripes than the crews of the Badger and Brutus contrived to spend that date in the year of grace 1899. The ship’s company of the Badger had constructed a unique craft out of a life-saving raft, miscellaneous tubs, canvas, and spars. This they named the Missouri, in compliment to their genial commander, Captain Miller, who hails from that State. The Missouri, manned by the regulation Uncle Sam in striped jacket and star spangled unmentionables, a fierce looking Admiral Farragut, and two or three females with tow-coloured locks, whose skittish winsomeness was of the elephantine order, made the round of the vessels in port. German lager and pilsener cannot be expected to quietly agree with Scotch whisky. New Zealand ale and Australian wines, and the high colour of the sweet

young tilings in pink dresses on the return of the Missouri to the Badger showed that they also had partaken of a little light refreshment. All parties found a dip in the tide cooling to the system, and arrived on board in normal physical condition. A regatta, in which the Tauranga accounted for

practically all the events, was a big feature of the day’s amusement. In the afternoon sports on the spacious deck of the Badger amused the visitors. to many of whom the characteristic nigger cake walk and favourite Yankee eating pie contests were novelties. The amount of absolutely firstfelass theatrical talent on the Badger was surprising*, an imitation of the strong man act by a gentleman whose serious face was in itself screamingly funny, was particularly good. To wind up the day the officers engaged for the evening a merry-go-round, which for some time on shore had been the delight of the juvenile dark-skinned Apian. A distorted version of the arrangement made was given to one of the Tutanekai’s passengers. being to the effect that the merry-go-round was aboard the warship. Without considering the impracticability of such a proceeding, the gentleman in question repaired to the Badger early in the evening. On arriving on deck he asked where the m-erry-go-round was. Now. hospitality had been lavish throughout the day. and American drinks are discomposing for the unseasoned. More than one gallant officer and civilian was hors de combat, and Captain Miller concluded by the strangeness of the request for a merry-go-round on hoard a warship that the trouble with the young man from the Tutanekai was not altogether unassociated with the potency of slings and cocktails. He was, however, courtesy personified.

and assuring the young man. who by this time was awakening to the situation. that he would be “better in the morning: yes! much better.” was very particular to see that a sailor followed him down to the boat to guard against the possibility of any unsteadiness of the lower limbs result-

ing in an unpremeditated immersion. As the boat moved away from the Badger Captain Stewart reiterated his remark about feeling better in tin* morning. On shore the natives were having a great time with free rides on the merry-go-round, old men apparently getting as much amusement out of the machine as young children. Laughter, shouting, the brazen hurdygurdy. the shrilly piping whistle, the snort of the steam engine and creek of the merry-go-round combined in one awful pandemonium of noise. And yet it was sufficiently amusing. There was no sign of drunkenness on the part of the natives, and certainly t Inlaw prohibiting the sale of liquor to natives under penalty of heavy fines or imprisonment appears to he well administered in Apia. The nevertiring natives seemed willing to continue their riding indefinitely. The officers' views not being identical, the show came to an end. and with it a very m-erry 4th of July. \ CRUISE THROUGH 'rill-: GROUP. I'he next morning saw the Tutanekai lying off Savaii, with the British. American and German on board. The five days' cruise that followed gave us a better insight into native life than is to be had in or about Apia. At Iva. on the first day. w e obtained something like a coni prehension of the loneliness of the 1 aider's life. The following- day at Matautu we

received an insight into what the natives can do when carefully supervised. Here, under the direction of the Rev. Beveridge, they have built the school building shown in the illustration. Missionary influence is considerable, and it is a pity that it >hould in a degree be stultified by the inability to work together of the three Societies engaged in Samoa. Three stcts in one small village must necessarily confuse the natives, aml the divergent teachings of Roman Catholicism. Church of England and Xonconiformist must retard the true spread of Christianity. There is abundant work for all. but efforts that have lieen made to divide the islands into three spheres, ami to get the Societies to confine their labours to the sphere assigned to. or chosen by them, have met with no success. So the ludicrous and harmful system of three missionaries trying to convert a very restricted nunibm* of natives is perpetuated in various parts of the islands. It was at Matautu also that we made the acquaintance of the natives other than as a race scrambling for the unearned shilling. The taupo. or chief maiden of the village, a remarkably tine looking girl, made the ladies of the party various presents, sang to us. and acted generally the part of the generous unsophisticated native. It was with quite a feeling of regret that I learned subsequently that our arrival in the village in company with tin* missionary had put a stop to a much more lively and exhilarating

entertainment. The taupo we made 1 he acquaintance of was a demure and obliging maiden, dressed in a loose flowing cotton garment. The taupo that those who preceded us were entertained by. while exactly of the same cast of countenance and identical in features, was a young person in a native lava lava, who haggled in the most approved fashion over the price of articles, danced a lively siva. and sang a stirring war song. The sight of the missionary looming up in the vicinity of the tent was apparently the magician’s wand long robe quickly covered lava lava, and a sedate maiden emerged from the hut to vvelcon .• us. as it is the taupn’s bounden duty to do. Iler greeting was formal ami without warmth, ami unaccompanied by any request to go into the hut. Later developments showed that the lady hardly believed that our addition to the party would increase her enjoyment, while it certainly would restrict her liberty. However, it is unfair to take people other than as you find them, and she certainly was very nice to us. TIIK NATIVE FONO AND T\\LOIO. 'The programme that the Commissioners went through on their five (lavs' trip in the Tuta.nekai could hardly be regarded as other than monotonous. Going ashore at some native centre, vv here the people had hern prepared for their advent by the British gunboat 'Torch, they walk-

»d to the main building of the village, lleie some of the leading chiefs were usually assembled, a place being arranged at one end for the Commission rs. and usually a tap pa covered table provided. Round the outskirts of the hut a number of old women and st did infants ranged themselves. while a stray mongrel, lieside which a Maori dog would be considered pure bred, found comfortable quarters in the middle of the floor. To this nondescript audience the chairman, the Hon. Bartlett Tripp, after the exchange of formal salutation, explained the Commissioners* proposals through the medium of an int rpreter. The natives for the most part vouchsafed but an inattentive hearing, and T wealed at. the close of the remarks by questions of an inconsequential or petty nature that the breadth and importance of the subject was. wit I. most of them, much b.yond their grasp. The native end of the discussion, when such occurred, was usually almost exclusively upheld by one talking-man. who was not necessarily the biggest chief present. In fact, the big chief is apparently not a talking man. Whether it is that the effort is lielovv his dignity or not. I do not know. But this much is certain, the Samoans are great sticklers for hereditary precedence. There was an amusing instance of this at Lulumoega, when Tamasese refused to enter the fono house because, forsooth, all the chiefs assembled therein were too much lielow him in rank. This was rendered

the more diverting by reason of the fact that at Mamma a couple of days previously the natives had been at the greatest pains to point out that in placing Ta.masts? on the same footing as Malietoa Tanu and Mataafa tin* Commissioners were committing a heinous offence. When the talking had been in progress for some time, the men loafing round in the vicinity marched up and made a food presentation. or taalolo. 'The party was usually preceded by the son of a chief, who gave a juggling display with a. head knife, while in one instance a band, against which a special prohibitory clause should ix‘ inserted in the international agreement. was in the van. Preliminaries being over, each man dropped his gift on a pile before the hut. A cocoanut. a root of taro, or a scraggy looking chicken about the size of a pigeon, compris'd almost without variation each man's offering. When the party retired a man came forward and. pretending to count tin* presentation, strung off a. list to compile which extensive calls on his imagination were necessary. If both Malietoa ns and Mataafaites were present. each party would separately make their presentation. In actual fact there would be very little to choose between their respective eontiributionis. but the talking-man of those last in the field invariably got the best of his forerunner, even were the latter's lies of unusual magnitude and daring. \s much of the offerings as proved convenient was out of politeness

carted to the ship's boat, and the fono. or talk. being over, and the taalobo made. the Commissioner's were bid good-bye to. and left to wend their way bark to their boat, and by it to the Tutanekai in the offing. The politeness of escorting visitors to their boat ap|Nirently has no place in Samoan etiquette. Twice the Commissioners got through two such meetings in a day. while on the other days only one plain* was visited. THE‘BATTLE OF THE FOOD OFFERING. The meetings, with the exception of the second in the Matautu district. passed off without incident, but possibly that one provided sufficient excitement to satisfy the Commissioners* longings in that direction. The affair in question had its origin in strained partizan feeling being ready to take umbrage at any insult. The Mataafaites with great ceremony made their food offering, at the same time representing themselves as the only people of the district. The Me’i.toans. who were decidedly in the minority, were terribly incensed at this affront. To show their contempt for the opposite side, when they came to make a food offering their head knives, instead of being carried as is customary by the young chiefs, were borne by natives of the c( inmonalty. This by the tortuous bye-ways of Samoan reasoning was tantamount to saying that the commonest Malietoan was equal to the young Mataafa •hief. The patriotic blood of the Mataafaites surged in their veins, and lost to sense of decency they commenced the battle of the cocoa nuts and pullets. 'Taro, stones. cocoanuts. and squawking chickens filled the alir. The Commissioners inSide the house regarded it as an interesting development of the taalolo. but the older chiefs. who were also seated in the house, very quickly divined that a serious battle was in progress. Rushing out. after much excited effort they quelled the disturbance. not before, however, several natives had been slashed with head knives, one being seriously injured. 'The hot-blooded natives listened like a lot of children to a severe fatherly lecture by the chairman of the Commissioners. and promised. like the old lady habitual tipplers who are an unornamental feature of our police courts, that if let off it should not occur again. Such was the one stirring incident of the cruise, and it served to open the Commissioners’ eyes to the fact that the Samoan in the matter of fighting is as bad as the Irish in the palmy days of Donnybrook fair. FINALE. By the courtesy of Baron Von Sternberg w*e spent a.n interesting Saturday night and Sunday at the Mulfanua plantation of the big German firm which is the main factor in Samoan commercial life. 'There we saw cocaanuts by the acre, equidistantly planted, drove down the most beautiful grass-grown; roads, shut in on either hand by the densest of bush, tried to fool the wily Samoan mosquito by the time-hon-oured trick of getting into the curtained bed. and gently rolling on to the floor and remaining there throughout the night: ami last, inspected the processes of making copra, and derided not to invest in a plantation. It was with a feeling of regret that we left Samoa two days later, and the sentiment was one of added sadness when, six days after, we parted with the Tutanekai and her com-pany—-the main link in a chain which included many pleasant impressions gathered in Samoa.