THE WORLD OF FASHION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIII, Issue IX, 26 August 1899, Page 44

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

By

MARGUERITE

Madame Mode is taking a bit of a holiday at present, before she has to set about creating lhe fashions for the coming season. But though the fashions are for the moment in statu quo between the outgoing modes of winter and the impending changes of spring, there is plenty to occupy us. To begin with I give a useful hint for any who like to have dressy little etceteras to brighten up their old gowns. This kikes the form of a varied assortment of neck wear, which will be an essential part of a spring and summer girl’s wardrobe. The plainest gown can be made very pretty by a soft chiffon stoc hp>r .a. jaunty adrift ended-taffeta bow that is crisp and fresh looking. Plain linen collars are now considered passe, and are to l>e very little in evidence: and really their departure will not be so much regretted as might be expected. So many new and tasteful neck finishings have been introduced that the linen collar is scarcely missed

even by its most devoted adherent, the tailor-made girl. Much more feminine and dainty are tdie narrow turnover collars of em’broiderjy. lace or fine hem-stitched linen. ’lTiese are used to fold over the ribbon bows, stocks and iaffeta ties now so much favoured. In fact, it is not considered quite as smart to wear ribbon about the neck as a tie about eight inches wide formed of soft taffeta, fashioned into a bow with long ends reaching to the waist, or made into an Ascot and fastened together with a long golf pin. Soft Liberty silk, chiffon, and lace ties.

and lawn ruffles in white and pule delicate tones, are much affected, and furnish a very becoming neck compeletiion. It is almost impossible to enumerate tihe stocks and various bows that are to i»e worn: the dainty little bows are edged with tiny frillings of lace. ribbon or ehiffon. giving a very soft and graceful finish. Tulle Itows stand out from under the chin like fluttering butterflies, and wili form one of the coming season’s fan- ® ® ©

The sitrong-minded female wears stifflv starched collars. No one would

suspect her of being a lover of gowns. On the other hand, the girl who wants other people to think -her feminine and pretty, takes great pains to annex something quite smart in neckties. She has no lack of choice, for the variety is something remarkable. Some of the most fascinating ties are made by the wearers themselves, and their greatest claim to beauty lies in the fact, that they are not skimpy, but have a generous amount of lace, mousseline. or gauze to form them. It does not require any great amount of cleverness to make one of these neckties. only a little skill of the needle and a knowledge of plain sewing. The necktie should be long enough to pass about the throat twice and then tie in a large fluffy bow in front. When it is tied the knot should be drawn tight, so that the centre is small and close. This makes the bows look much smarter when they are pulled out than if the knot was loose and uncertain. A white satin folded collar has jabot of corded silk, with huge polka dots of cerise velvet, and over this another jabot falls in pretty folds, tying in a ciharming fluffy bow in front, with long ends. Four in hand scarfs, in all the bright, pretty shades of pique, with long ends that reach to the belt, will

be worn with silk and fancy shirt waists. And glaring plaid scarfs fold ed over soft white stocks will be found among the varieties displayed.

White tulle neckties covered at the ends with rows of narrow tulle ruches are very pretty and becoming.

Floral l»oas are one of the novelties for neckwear. They are made of rose leaves and leaves of gathered gauze. The newest thing for neckwear is the lace scarf, five inches wide and a a yard and a half long. This, folded around a silk stock a time or two and tied in a sailor knot or bow is one of the most |>opular novelties.

All the newest hats bear an upward inclination in front and a downward one Itehind as you will see by the two illustrations here. The first is of fanciful white straw, trimmed with a large knot of shaded orange to golden

brown velvet, and branches of white and yellow acacias. This shape, simple and becoming, looks well with the hair dressed either high or low. The second is of “Italian corn” straw, crowned round with white tulle in

which tufts of pink roses with their foliage appear, (hr the left side you will see a large knot of black velvet, always a charming touch. Tulle toques ami hats are to be very popu lar. I have seen a eharming toque of wistaria-blue tulle, caught down one side with a silver buckle and wistari 1 elimbing over the front on the swathed foamy folds. Provided yon have your shapes these tulle toques are not difficult to make, but you must have yards of tulle, as they need a tremendous quantity, and of course they don't last long, many pinnings-on proving ruin. I grieve to say the real

osprey is beginning to be used again by the wealthy, happily the real ones are extremely expensive, and can never become very common. As for appealing to a fashionable woman’s humanity, it is hopeless, and has been done so often with futile result. In Paris they are wearing tulle tied from the hat, crossed at the back and tied under the chin, but this being rather a hot fashion is sure not to gain much favour. ® ® ® The lady in the sketch, who evedently watches a race with great interest, wears a belted, or, as 11 is often called, a strapped gown. In her case peau de suede forms the strappings, the colour milk-white on a mastic cloth gown. Her toque is a mass of emerald tulle, and her vest and tie are of the same material, with needle-ran embroidery as a finish. Centred in the picture a really comfortable tea gown appears. The qualifying epithets are needed. Some tea gowns are far from cosy. This one is made of the newly fashioned nun’s veiling, in colouring a lovely rose petal pink, with pearl silk lapels and a pearl silk petticoat. Delicate embroideries appear on the gown, done in floss silks, the colours green, pink and blue in the old. pretty French shades.

I recommend the embroidery of tea gowfl fabrics to clever girls who are good fancy needlewomen, for there can lie nothing more becoming than a truly feminine toilette such as this. Note the inroad black velvet neck band. It might be studded with a simple little sparkling brooch or two. to give it more of an air. But plain bands are undoubtedly the latest chie. and rememlier that diamonds worn anywhere very near the face are not beautiflers. Particularly do they INTERFERE WITH THE EFFECT which white, even teeth command, and women whose "pearls” are not beyond reproach should never mount a diamond so near the mouth as the throat. Reserve the gems for the little lace vest in such a case. By the way, Watteau pleats are modish again for tea gown wear, and no train is more comfortable nor more generally becoming. Now I arrive at the third model The idea is a double bodice, the upper one of cloth and the inner one of velvet. The effect was not one of slashings, but of two separate bodies. The upper one is most dexterously cut to show the velvet and to give the waist a tapering form; wherefore this is a model T heartily recommend to those who would look slim. The side pieces of the velvet and the V are admirably graceful. Sets of little bob buttons finished the front plastron, and the skirt, as indicated, was cut out to show velvet beneath. There is all the difference in the world between the new cut-out device and the old overlaid one. though in the sketches shown the subtlety is scarcely discernible. My artist agreed with me that a tulle toque, with tulle strings and soft plumes, would lie the most lovely ehapeau to go with this dress, toning off its severity and leaving an impression of femininity. Besides, strings are coming in fast. ® ® ® This figure is a very eharming costume of the palest pearl-grey cashmere with edgings of white silk braid. The Eton jacket here is cut up in the centre of the back and on either side of the front, and strapped across the openings with tabs of the white silk braid and tiny gold buttons. This is worn over a shirt of white mousseline with insertions of Valenciennes lace. a folded band of the mousseline being fastened by a big gold buckle at the back. These folded bands or scarves, fastened by large buckles of dull gold, cut steel, silver or jewelled, form one of the fancies of the moment for finishing the waist at the back.

In this sketch we show one of the most modish expressions of the chiffon boa. that is a full ruche round the neck, or to bust, and completed each side by full falling ends. Tulle boas are in great force, too, for evening wear, but are. of course, too fragile to stand more than a wear or two. whereas chiffon renovates admirably if carefully washed if light, or damped and ironed if black. ® ® ® A very lovely opera wrap is the subject. forming our sketch; built of pearl grey brocaded satin, it is cut with loose fronts and a Watteau back. The high collar and revers are lined

with rows of pleated pearl grev chiffon. and from the throat falls a jabot of soft creamy lace: the wrists being finished by pleated chiffon and lace to correspond. This model was sketched from a house noted for its cachet. ® ® ® This is a chiffon fichu corded with velvet. This imported novelty will be a useful addition to the girl's wardrobe. It is made of white chiffon, trimmed with narrow rows of blackvelvet. It has two ruffles, one of chif-

fon edged with the velvet and another deeper one of cream tinted lace. Instead of tying loosely at the corsage with two long ends, as is customary, it is made with a bow consisting of two fluffy loops, two rosettes and a graceful velvet edged jabot. ® ® '® The pocket of the skirt of the moment is indeed in extremis, and can no longer exist in the ultra-fashion-able garment, so skin-tight has it become. In this straight, elegantes are now carrying a bag pocket known in remote days—when Madame Recamier and other beauties of her time were clad in the scantiest of clinging muslins—as a satchel or reticule. These modern bag pockets are made of material appropriate to the toilet, and embroidered with monogram or crest. Other elegant contrivances to meet this emergency have been brought out by jewellers and sellers of fancy ware taking something the form of • a chatelaine to carry in the hand, in mountings of gold', silver, and leather, with two or more receptacles for purse, handkerchief, scent, and possible powder-puff.

This figure is a delicate grey cashmere. Ihe whole of bodice, sleeves, and upper portion of skirt is piped. I’he shoulder collar and inner yoke and collar is of white satin overlaid with cream laee. The waist scarf is of white satin held bv a jewelled buckle. Sashes are much in evidence both of silk and ribbon, and many scarves of tulle and gauze just passed round the waist, tied, without a bow. and left in long ends behind to the hem of the skirt are to be seen.