The Would of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXII, Issue XXV, 24 June 1899, Page 878

The Would of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

The two smart balls of the 1899 season in Auckland, which have coloured the debutante’s dreams for weeks past, and that will linger in the memories of even the most fastidious critics of social functions, are now over, and we must turn our minds from balls dresses which have hitherto occupied them to the exclusion of more everyday things. Before passing, however, I should note that at the Governor’s birthday ball there was a good display of new costumes, many of the ladies who attended the Northern Club ball a few days before having exercised their talents in new designs which vied with the dresses they had worn on the earlier occasion. There were, of course, also a great many more guests at Government House, and the display was unusually brilliant. The debutantes, as before, dressed exclusively in white, but every other colour found favour with one or another of the ladies present. The Countess of Ranfurly’s costume was particularly elegant. However. 1 must not dwell longer on bygone glories but will proceed to give my readers a few hints that may be found useful. As we must study economy after our little extravagancies, it is good news to learn that the bolero and the zouave style of trimming bodices are again to be fashionable. These are very becoming, especially to slight figures, and can be made in lace, ruched ribbon, or jewelled embroidery, and are very pretty additions to any bodice, giving it a smart finishing touch. In my wanderings up Queenstreet this week I noticed quite a»> array in the shop windows and in baskets at the doors, of beaded, jewelled, and sequined shaped zouaves and garnitures of all kinds marked at very low prices. Now is the time to renovate and embellish our last season’s gowns with some of these ornaments. A few touches and a bolero introduced on ouf old bodice will change the aspect of the gown to a degree. Tailor-made clothes always reassert themselves at this time" of trie year, but this season’s tailor suits are less severe than formerly, and there is scarcely one seen without some feminine touch to brighten it. Never before has there been such a bewildering array of styles from which to choose. The Eton jacket has reappeared, slightly modified of course, but still an Eton jacket. Hairdressing has become a much more important quantity of late, and the well-dressed woman now-a-days makes her coiffure one of the greatest points. The Pompadour is the mode, waved and rolled back, loosely enough to furnish the face, then caught in a knot quite on the top of the head. We are returning to the bang. But it will be a new bang, and a becoming one, not the heavy fringe of old. All the fashionable coiffures show at least a few short curls resting on the forehead.

It is reported on high authority that; the blouse bodiee will still reign triumphant through yet another season for ordinary toilettes, but that entire dresses will be more au fait for more special occasions, which rule applied equally well to the modes of last season. Some of the present bodices or waists are extremely pretty and artis-

tic. In this figure, for instance, is one which, well-fitted and carefully made, is most effective, and is an example of the prevailing modes of cut of the moment. This is of sage green velvet, trimmed by a bordering of steel and silver passementerie. The neck is cut low and round, it will be seen, for wear over a lace, muslin, or chiffon chemisette, and it fastens on the left side with two points and steel and silver buttons. This is a ‘waist’ whic'h would lend itself very happily to demidress occasions worn with a. sage green silk skirt. Lace is immensely in favour in Paris, and will be most probably with us through the coming season. All kinds seem acceptable, but real, of course, is the thing, so now is the time for the fortunate possessors of bits of real to make hay while the sun shines, for periods come (we have just passed through one) when inconsequent chiffon is considered more modish than lace of great beauty and value. Cravats ami jabots will be much to thu fore. ® ® © From Paris comes the walking toilette we have sketched in this figure.

This is built of fawn-coloured Vienna cloth, which will be one of the coming materials. The skirt is cut on sheath-like lines to the knees, when it flows full and sweeps the ground. The coat is also sheath-like and long, and is bordered with narrow, dark sable, the revers, cuffs, and pockets being of white satin. These tightly - clinging garments absolutely demand a figure a la Ingoldsby's ‘Lady Jane’ of ‘tall and slim’ renown, and indeed a perfect figure, which is far less often met with than a pretty face. How the Parisian ladies manage the matter is a puzzle, for they are certainly not of the ‘tall and slim’ variety in general, indulging so much less in exercises than their more athletic English sisters.

Just now there is a craze for fencing in Paris amongst ladies; perhaps this may be with a view’ to keeping adiposity in subjection to exploit the eelskin modes with success. © ® ® THE LATEST SLEEVES. ONE IS A MODIFICATION OF THOSE WORN MANY YEARS AGO. Three of the newest models exhibit in the sketch on the opposite page the latest development of these important items, the sleeves. In each case is a rapproachement between them and the bodice, making the fact clear that, although jockey sleeves are going to be modish in some toilettes, where there is so small an amount of material used, as required in a fancy blouse, it is correct to have them to match. The lace coat is shown on the left side, the. serrated edges of the lace exhibiting itself in native beauty over a chemisette of silk or mousseline de soie, worn with a smart knotted scarf, brought up into full loops on the shoulders. Half a dozen very hand-

some buttons worthily' adorn this blouse, and a remarkably becoming little one it is. In the centre bodice the salient features are the flopping mousseline bow, centred with a buckle, and above this, the lattice trimmings of gathered chiffon, which bind the arms round, and outline the decolletage. Again the sleeves are extraordinarily long, and

again the shoulders and upper arms are left uncovered. The last bodice affords a charming hint for the utilisation of a precious piece of lace; one of the antique pelerines, for instance, our great grandmothers wore, and treasured so tenderly. The narrow ends are fastened on the shoulders with little diamond buckles or buttons. The sleeves, quaint and old-world, are puffed slightly at the top, giving that air of well-being to the woman it suits, which the attenuated tightly - fitted sleeve never can. Although the sketch suggests in two instances skirts that are en suite with the bodice, in the centre one we have a velvet or satin.skirt with a broche or fancy grenadine bodice. They are not in the latest movement, the blouse and skirt of different materials; but so useful and delightful is the dear old fashion that it is very pleasant to see it, and quite smart enough for many a pretty’ girl. ® ® ® Red and scarlet cloth is in great favour just now for children’s out-door wear. Tailor-made coats and skirts, capes, and pelisses are all being made in this cheery colour, which may’ be a bit too ‘talkative’ for the out - door wear of grown-ups, but is very pretty for the juvenile members. In this figure a smart little pelisse is shown in scarlet cloth, trimmed with black astrachan. This is cut all in one, a

trifle longer than is absolutely necessary, to allow of it pouching over a bit when the band is put on. It is double-breasted, but the body part only is buttoned ; the lower portion wraps over sufficiently to keep in plaee. being already held by t'be as-

trachan waist-band. A hussar cap of black astrachan with tuft completes a delightful outdoor costume, combining smartness, warmth, comfort, and general usefulness. The lining may be of scarlet or black. ® ® ® This sketch describes one of the newest 'head-dresses; the band is made of velvet and guipure lace, and the

Louis bow in front is finished off 5 with an aigrette.