TUHOUA.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXII, Issue XXII, 3 June 1899, Page 749

TUHOUA.

Thirty miles to the east of Taura nga. in- the Bay of Plenty, lies the Island of Tuhoua. To Europeans the place is known by the name of Mayor Island, and its name is about all that most Europeans know about it, for the island is difficult to get at, and seldom approached. Yet, speaking from my own experience of Tuhona, I can fancy no place that more fully repays the trouble of a visit to any one that loves a week’s existance a la Bobinson Crusoe. The island abounds in wild pigs, peacocks, ducks, and pigeons, and in the gullies on the south side there are groves of splendid peaches. These were ripe on the occasion of my visit to Tuhona, and in addition we found plenty of quinces, cherries, apples, and Cape gooseberries. It is plain, therefore, that the picnicker there need not bring fruit or poultry with him. Of fish there is an ample supply, hapuka, tariki, and schnapper being especially plentiful. Tuhoua is of volcanic origin, and measures about five miles by three. The crater occupies a large part of the area, being about 2J miles in diameter. Its sides and bottom are heavily timbered with pohutukawa, except at the lowest part, which is occupied by two large lakes. The shores of the island are very precipitous, and when our party arrived we had to make our way up the cliffs by means of iron bolts driven into the face of the rock. Getting up the provisions proved a somewhat difficult undertaking, and the heavier things had to be hauled up by means of ropes. Our illustration shows a barrel of moderate refreshment in the act of making its ascent. It was watched with very anxious eyes by all, and more than once we expected to see it drop, for the sharp edges of the rocks, which are mostly composed of volcanic glass, chafea the rope in half-a-dozen places. The barrel, however, got safely to the top, and so did everything else except two bottles of medical comforts, Which were smashed, and a sack of potatoes, that had the bottom chafed out of it. Having seen that the yacht, which boasted an auxiliary oil engine, was safely anchored, and the dinghy hauled up on the rocks, we made for the large lake in the crater, and pitched our camp near its shores. Here we spent several days. One party, with dogs, went pig-hunting, and we were never short of fresh pork all the time we remained on the island. Other parties were equally successful wild-fowl shooting, peach gathering, etc., so tinned provisions were very soon at a discount.

The lake side of the island is certainly the most interesting from a sportsman’s and general holiday maker’s point of view, as the scenery is wilder and game abundant.

We found the water of the lake alive with insects, which necessitated its being boiled before we drank it. The natives told us there were no fish in the water, which finds its way to

the sea by two subterranean passages. The stream flowing from one of these is quite fresh, but the water of the other has a very sulphurous taste. The Maoris are settled on the south side of the island, where there is better ground for their plantations. Here also are the only two bays on the island that have sandy beaches. But a great drawback to camping here is the want of water, which has to be brought by boat from further round the island. As it got very rough shortly after we pitched eamp here,

we found it impossible to land in the boat, and so had to carry the water on our backs in jars over the hills. The natives keep their supply in similar jars. Having plenty of time and energy, we thought we could improve upon this condition of things, and so set about to dig a well, but getting no trace of water at a depth of sixteen feet we abandoned the work.

The natives were very good to us, allowing us the run of the island with dog and gun. One of our party brought a quantity of fancy goods to trade for curios, etc., and was fairly successful, amongst other things buya tapued whare containing a quantity of articles of value from a collector’s point of view. One does not often meet with the old-time Maori carver. Our illustration shows one at work. He is, as can be seen, an elderly man, and knows no English. We learned that he had left the mainland many years

ago, an exile on account of some feud that would cost him his life if he ventured to return. The character of our party was a stoutish man, and the natives, without any introduction, christened him ‘l’ukanui.’ It was he who fell with half the crockery, with disastrous results; it was he who, after a long day’s shooting, brought home an empty cartridge belt and no game, finishing up by falling on a double-barrelled gun belonging to another man. and breaking it in his attempts to straighten it. It was he

who, when we were shifting camp, let two bottles of whisky roll down the cliff to save himself from going over, which cast a gloom over the camp for several days. We spent our evenings either in the natives’ whares, or in our camp, black and white contributing to the entertainment by either singing, dancing, or playing on various instruments. The haka was danced for us, which I cannot say I admire; I rather thought it particularly hideous. On the tenth day out we were not sorry to find the weather moderating, as we only intended staying a week, and the supply of luxuries was getting short. So, with regrets on both sides, we left our dusky island friends. We promised to call again soon.

I cannot refrain from saying that our boat did well. Against a head wind, thanks to the oil engine, she made a good passage, and was as ready for work at the end of the eight hours’

run as she was at the beginning.' The only mishap on the trip over was the loss by I’ukanui of a peacock feather decorated hat, presented us by the natives. WILLIAM F. MEYENBEBG.