LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XX, Issue XXIII, 4 June 1898, Page 717

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

*~> HEREAS at the \ l 1 I beginning of the \ / season it was rt V 7A \ "/ rather difficult \\_ M 1 11 know what ■ VSV VW ■ I would be the y \ I uf H I real keynote of A W W B I this win ter’s J | millinery ; now that several [ in o<l e s ha v e C—S been issued, and smart w o in en have given them a fair trial, there is no doubt that drapery, in every form, may claim the first place as a hat and toque trimming. Numberless charming effects can be obtained by well draped piecevelvet or antique satin, and the milliner

may use her own discretion as to what form the draping should assume. For instance, one model I noticed the other day at one of the many fashionable matinee concerts was a small tan felt shape, with the sloping crown arranged all round with

periwinkle blue velvet, pinned in here and puffed out there, so as to rather suggest no forethought at all on the part of the modiste. It was indeed the carelessness of the draping which constituted the main charm of the hat, the model being completed by a handful of fawn wings emerging at the side from the clasp of a bright paste medallion. Another design, which struck me as even daintier ami more serviceable—as it could be worn with various kinds of gowns—is the charming little velvet hat here illustrated. Black velvet is employed to cover the actual shape in buckram, but the material is drawn very tightly over the crown, so as not to spoil the effect of the over-drapery of antique satin in the most exquisite shade of rosepink imaginable. This trimming is brought up in folds to the left side, whore some black ostrich tips and a pretty buckle complete the very chic ami very French model. Cashmere, velvet, or some soft material is used for the style of frock shown in tlie second sketch, suitable for a child of ten. The waist is finished with a sash of velvet, anil additional war th given to the

shoulders, and style to the frock by a short bolero of velvet, edged with narrow fur. In the model the frock is of grey cashmere, velvet and fur ; but as many would prefer colour for children, the same design could be carried out in various shades according to the complexion and hair of the child. Green with grey fur ; red and black fur ; blue with brown fur ; or, rose-colour with brown fur, ami so on. The great amount of fur to be used this winter for all sorts and conditions of gowns and coats will not be limited to ‘ grown-ups ’ by any means; children’s frocks, wraps, hats and hoods being quite as much befurred, though of course, in less massive proportions, or the little figures would look overweighted. Nearly all furs —excepting the very long haired ones, for the foregoing reason —are used for the juvenile modes as for adults. A specially dainty little robe for the * best :

wear of a mite of three summers was shown me lately by one of our leading juvenile modistes. It was of white surah, sims-k fashion, with cascades of white lace, ami finger widths of ermine fnr round yoke, cuffs and throat. The present tendency of Lady Fashion seems to lie to make us as slim and willowy as |H>ssible. Hence the complete suppression of the inflated sleeve ami narrowing of the skirts round the hips. While silksand all soft dressing materials

are made up in the loose blousetle form, cloth growns show an inclination to show off the lines of the bust and waist. Thick lainages certainly lend themselves excellently to the tailor-lmilt or cuirasse style of bodice. The sketch reproduces a smart tight-fitting walking costume, such as is worn by the very best-dressed woman. The dress is carried out in ‘gendarme’ blue habiting, with a close corsage terminating above the hips. In this very latest Paris ilesign we find quite a novel mode of ornamentation. To almost as high as the knees is introduced a band of thick satin matching the cloth, and over this kind of broad false hem are laid a series of cloth strappings stitched down the centre. The same style of trimming is repeated on the bodiee and round the collar, and on the upper portion of the sleeves. Thanks to such a novel treatment, a plain woollen frock may be converted into something attractive at a moderate expenditure.

This handsome winter wrap is made in velvet and fur. the velvet having a pretty jet and braid design. The back is drawn

in at the centre seam.

Heloise.