LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XX, Issue XVI, 16 April 1898, Page 493

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

OW fashionable is the toque ! It, for the moment, has quite relegated the picture hat to the back seat we so fervently wish it consigned to at the matinee. The latest cry in this accommodating an d generally becoming little head-dress is illustiated in my first sketch. It is built of the new

crinkled velvet, and is formed by two gatherings forming a double brim—as it would be if toques might be said to possess anything worthy the name—an undulating or full crown meeting the same, and a high aigrette of feathers, birds, flowers, or other chiffons rising on the left side. The model my sketch was made from was built of choco-

late-coloured crinkled mirror velvet; the aigrette lieing composed of silk poppies, a few of which were also tucked under the left side of the brim. This made a very fit and suitable headgear for the season of the sear and yellow leaf. Green, however,

is a very favourite shade for these toques, with which aigrettes of autumn leaves look remarkably well. Hats are being worn turned up on the one side and at the back so much now, as well as being tilted on one side and forward as much as ever. This thusness has brought about the much higher dressing of the hair at the liack, or, stay—did the hair ascend first, and so force the hat out of its staid equilibrium ? The change of pose, in any case, exists, whichever was the original cause of the effect. The unbalanced hat is not particularly pretty, and is a risky mode, as so many women get lieyond look ing simply chic and smart in it, ami merge into the rakish ami rowdy. None but quite young women should ever assume it. While awaiting the days of biting frost and snow, one would do well to wear a cosy silk ruffle or feather collarette round the throat, instead of a.thick fur l>oa or tie. Having already mentioned most of the novelties for the neck in dark or light ostrich plumage, I will now note an example or two of the silk nifties. A charming addition —to go with a hat which has at least one touch of colour to match — is the ruffle composed of black lisse frills ami nichings of pinked-out orange glace ribbon arranged alternately. Very dainty too are the ‘ Pierrot ’ collarettes composed entirely of pink and black gros-grain silk, frayed out in the same manner as the glace

in the other model. Check ami Scotchplaid ribbons make up into delightful ruffles for those whom these kind of conventional patterns suit; but they require careful planning, so that the accompanying costume shall not clash with any of the colours employed. With the jacket (sketched) that is described below, a charming new ruffle of bright crimson ribbon and black lisse is worn. This smart little morning coat, which will help the wearer to tide over the early winter, without investing in anything heavier, was originated in Paris, and charms one by reason of its trim cut and girlish simplicity. It is made of beaver cloth in just that dust-and-mnd resisting tan shade worn by the coachmen and grooms in the best houses The lining throughout is of watercress-green satin placet! over a layer of demette or porous flannel, introduced for the sake of warmth. A strap, which terminates with a steel button on each side, gives—together with the Listening arrangement in front—a distinct French cachet to the coat. The high collar is cut in one with the jacket ; but here it is concealed under the ruffle just described. Feather trimmings, nairow and broad and of all descriptions, figure conspicuously in the modes of this season. In conjunction with velvet material, that is more popular than ever, black ostrich feather garnitures will be much worn.

So much for some of the frivolous modes, al.Hiut which one generally likes to hear at least something, even if one contemplates the immediate purchase of more substantial confection such as winter wraps and jackets. And this reminds me that instead of the ultra popular Russian blouse, many women who lead a very active outdoor life, have already taken to the new ‘Princess’ coat; tight-fitting, doublebreasted and cut to a three-quarter length. Bv the way, the Princess robe shows signs of liecoming rather fashionable in Paris ; and some of thegreat dressmakers over there are displaying some charming models of the kind. But to look well the robe requires to lie cut to perfection and hung on a perfect figure. Yokes—of all shapes and sizes

characterise the frocks this winter ; the white cloth saddle artistically embroidered “a la Kusse ” with coloured floss-silk, being perha)>s the newest and prettiest of the kind. The visiting-gown, sketched for our readers' benefit, will afford a clear idea of the mode in question. This smart dress is modelled in very smooth and supple cloth of a watercress green ; quite

an original design in black military braid being introduced. The yoke—forming three V patterns back and front—is made of white vicuna, embroidered with crimson, yellow, ami green silks picked out here and there with steel metallic thread. The effect of this Russian embroidery is extremely stylish, and makes the gown look altogether ladylike and uncommon.

Heloise.