'CYCLE TOUR TO THE WEST COAST.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XIX, Issue XX, 6 November 1897, Page 612

'CYCLE TOUR TO THE WEST COAST.

IxERHAI’S a few particulars J of this magnificent ride will be interesting to cyclists. Having my camera fixed under the frame in a leather ease, which is easily opened on the left side and the slides (6 quarter plate) with six dozen boxes of plates in another strong leather case hung between the handle bars of my Singer machine, 1 started on my trip down the West Coast, I will attempt to give some idea of its splendour, and some accounts of the road and the distances between the accommodation houses in case of accidents or breakdowns, for those who like to enjoy their day’s riding, as the whole ride is a fairly rough one. The road from Nelson to Foxhill, 22 miles, is very fair, stretching along the Waimea through several small villages. It is one of the favourite cycle riiles for Nelsonians, as very good accommodation is provided at Gaukrodger’s, at Foxhill. This is the starting jsiint for the West Coast coach for Reefton, Greymouth, ami Westport, which leaves on Tuesdays ami Fridays ami meets the latter at Longford, returning next day. After leaving this place our ride began in earnest, having on leaving Belgrove to begin the ascent of the Spooner's Range, 1792 feet above the sea level. This we found heavy work owing to the rain and the sticky state of the clay road, and the extra weight of my machine. A splendid view of the Waimea Plains stretching away beneath one’s feet towards Nelson, with the bushcovered hills ami the surrounding snow-eapped mountains in the far distance make a beautiful scene when clear —we unfortunately had it rather misty and wet. This made it necessary to walk down the steep pinches of the descent, till on reaching the level again we struck the railway, which has now tunnelled under Spooner's Range, and is being constructed along the Motueka Valley.

There are two accommodation houses about here — Bramell's, ten miles from Foxhill, and Corbett’s, seven miles further on, where the coach stops for dinner. From here the road rises gradually all the way up the Motupiko Valley, but the scenery is nothing much to speakof till it reaches the summit of the Hope Saddle, 2170 feet. It is one mile stiff pull to the top, but two miles down, the road winding round and round the saddle, and lovely views are obtained on either side.

We decided to stay at Hamilton’s accommodation house, nine miles from Corbett’s, for the night, and they did their best to make us comfortable. The proprietor’s son being an amateur photographer, like myself, kindly lent me his dark room so I was able to fix up some more plates. On leaving next day we found our way was through much prettier scenery than we had hail so far, with lovely bush on either side. The road here follows the Hope River till that meets the Buller, 12 miles further on. Here, in its infancy, we made our first acquaintance with the river whose deep, tempestuous, rushing Hood we are able to follow for 90 miles, till it loses itself in the waters of the Pacific. The road then narrows till it readies the side of a hill, when suddenly on rounding some masses of fallen rock a most glorious view is obtained, with the snow capped Mount Murchison at the back and the Buller running swiftly along at our feet. A little lower down the valley the scene becomes one of unsurpassed loveliness. It is futile to attempt to do it justice, for its grandeur is indescribable ami its aspect ever changing. Passing the Hope Accommodation House, lately unfortunately burned down, we rode on to Owen Junction, nine miles. No accommodation house is passed, nor can anything be obtained till the Junction Hotel is reached. 21 miles from Hamilton's.

The road is also not of the best, and in |suts is very sandy, in fact this we found the worst piece in the whole of the ride through. My friend unfortunately, on rounding a stiff corner, fell off in the loose sand and

cut a pretty figure. With an amateur’s usual luck I found my camera was not ready at the critical time to get a snapshot. After dinner at the Owen Junction Hotel, 70 miles from Nelson, we rode on towards Longford, 13 miles, and here passed some grand bits of river and mountain scenery. In some places the solid cliff has slipped away and fallen into the river, altering its course. At Longford (S 3 miles) passengers from Nelson for the Reefton and Westport eoaeh, and those that have come from those places for Nelson go on next day to their several destinations. We did not stay here preferring to ride on the seven miles further to Fern Flat, passing on the way the rising mining township of Murchison. I had the misfortune just here to break the springs of my saddle clean off—now- came the difficulty of getting them repaired. Luckily', after much trouble, I got a blacksmith w'orking at a dredge to see what he could do. and after 24 hours spent, with his help a sort of seat was fixed up by making the bends in the spring smaller and fastening them by the nuts fixing the broken pieces in the front into the saddle bracket, jammed in with an iron wedge. It was fortunate that he was able, to do so much as in no other way would it have been possible to proceed on our tour, and no ordinary blacksmith for miles did we come across.

The road from Fern Flat to Lyell, 17 miles, is, 1 think, the best of'the scenery seen so far on our way. For miles the river flows near the road which bends and turns and crosses bridges built over small ravines, and one could see the damage lately done by the landslips and the snow of this winter. From here to the Lyell the Buller flows through the deepest and darkest of gorges, sometimes the river flows near the road which is cut out of the well nigh perpendicular cliff. There is a sharp ascent and descent before reaching the mining township of Lyell (106 miles from Nelson), which is situated high up on the mountain side, and consists of three public houses and one or two stores. Two miles from the township we crossed the Buller for the first time, by a massive girder bridge; but the road to the Inangahua Junction is not nearly as fine as some of the former bits, but still it has its characteristic beauties. Crossing the wood bridge and about a mile further, we reach the Inangahua Junction Hotel (118 miles from Nelson). From here one can proceed to Reefton (22 miles), or go to Westport (27 miles).

The coaches from Nelson, Westport, and Reefton meet here twice a week, and the \\ estport and Reefton daily. The road to Reefton is for the most part very uninteresting, stretching at times for miles straight ahead through flat bush country. Six miles from the J unction we crossed the river by the boat. The ferryman only uses the punt for the coaches. Sixpence is charged for self and bicycle. Reefton (140 miles) is a small mining town, and like the Lyell, is celebrated for its rich auriferous reefs, which abound in large quantities, and are in prospect of being worked on a much larger scale than formerly. We returned to the Junction on the following afternoon having spent the morning in looking' about Reefton. Continuing our ride next day to Westport, we passed the finest scenery of the whole trip. Some 18 miles from the Junction we came to Hawke’s Crag, where the road is cut out of the Hving rock; above is a ceiling of rock; to the left a wall of rock; beneath a flooring of rock; to the right is sudden death to him who falls into the deep Buller. Ou this part of the road are two picturesque archways of natural rock, through which the coach and cyclist pass. No words can describe the beauty of the forest or the luxuriance of the ferns growing along the road and in the sheltered gullies throughout the route.

A. S. ARROWSMITH, C.T.C.