LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XIX, Issue V, 24 July 1897, Page 157

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS

NOTHER season has dawned upon us. The two first draw-ing-rooms are already over. Some very exquisite gowns were in the hands of the Court dressmakers for these occassions, and, indeed, judging by early glimpses and reports, it seems probable that this Diamond Jubilee year will be a record one in the matter of dress. It is an undeniable,

and to some trying, truism, that we cannot all indulge in priceless lace, fabulous furs, costly fabrics, and diamonds beyond price, however much our tastes may incline in such luxurious directions ; but we can. at least, all do our * little possible ’ to make the best appearance our dress allowance will permit, and it behoves us all so to do for the forthcoming festivities, consoling ourselves with another most forcible truism that taste and gumption have from time immemorial frequently proved equal to wealth (minus one or the other) in producing a satisfactory effect. With the view

of preparing for coming activities, I introduce an exceedingly smart toque recently sketched. The shape is on Tam-o’-Shanter lines, the edge—so to speak—being undulating. It is brought np somewhat higher on the left side, and there furnished by a group of fan bows of soft yellowish lace, yellow roses, and a bird-o’-Paradise plume. The velvet is bronze-green. Well worn, this is a very stylish and becoming headgear. Toques, by the way, seem likely to be the most modish wear for some time to come, lavishly decorated with flowers of all seasons and colours—natural and otherwise.

Just at present Fashion seems to be undecided in her choice of spring silks ; in fact, I fancy the all-capricious deity will effect a compromise, and decree that shot materials shall be favoured quite as much as plaids, stripes, and checks. Parrot green shot with gendarme bine remains in great favour. The Parisian gown illustrated is a smart afternoon reception toilette of taffetas

woven in this charming beetle’s wing colouring. Joining a severely plain skirt, set out from the boots evidently by means of a rather voluminous balayeuse, or inner frill, is a corsage that has been planned with great thought and sartorial precision. It ends in a Court point under a draped velvet ceinture of a shade darker than the green in the glad. Flat velours pieces, starting from the side-seams, are laid over the silk by way of a kind of open corselet edged with a fancy bordering of green floss cording, picked out at intervals with blue metallic thread. Similar ornamentations adorn the lower portion of the sleeves, which are gracefully fashioned on simple, graduated lines, far preferable to the fourreau shape with its tiny crowning puff. Some wired deep cream lace constitutes a Medici collar and

falls down the front in a double cascade, which tapers oft to next to nothing by the time it joins the waistband. A little additional den telle is ruffled round the cuffs.

Linen collars demand ties, of which a variety is shown in satin, plaid silk, cotton goods, etc. There are wide and narrow bows in scarlet, navy, cherry, pink, green, white, black and purple shades ; four-in-hands just like those sold to men ; dress bows of lawn or satin ; large, loosely-tied bowknots, like a modified Windsor tie, and brilliant plaid string ties without number. You can pay from 6d to 10s for this now necessary article. Stocks of satin tied in a bow in front for the tiny turn-over band collars can be worn only with the one style of collar. A new collar has a tiny edge standing out like a circle, and this requires a stock, or a piece of black or coloured ribbon (number twelve) passed twice around the neck, and tied in a four-'n-hand knot in front, with ends coming half-way to the belt.

With springtime comes all kinds of schemes and plans as regirds smarter walking apparel. The following sketch will afford an excellent idea of what we may expect will be fashionable in the early spring This illustration represents a thoroughly smart and useful costume in very deep heliotrope satin cloth, strapped across the front seams with the same material, and ornamented

with fancy violet metallic buttons. As regards the strapping, the neat little coat resembles the jupe, but it has further ornamentation in the shape of graduated revers overlaid with narrow emerald green silk cording worked in with mauve metal thread. A drawn heliotrope velvet band meets a slightly gathered waistcoat of green silk shot with the mauve, and matches the neckband, over which droops a cream lisse ruffling.

A good authority says :—‘ Good needlewomen will be at a premium this year, for never was there so much handwork needed. Nearly all tea and Sauts du lit gowns have to be made without the aid of the sewing machine, and the French beading let in with the insertion gives a vast deal of work. We are returning to the shapeless sleeves of long ago, with only a seam inside the arm, and these, with insertion let in either diagonally or perpendicularly, appear in most of the French jackets. The Pagoda sleeve, drawn into a band above the wrist with a frill beyond, is also in favour, and cerise velvet or ribbon finds a place in most of the French models, while the edge of nearly every skirt is trimmed in some way. In underclothing there is a great deal that is novel and uncommon. Dancing mnst be much on the increase, that is, the posture dancing which we have adopted from the East of late years, for there are endless bewitching petticoats cut en Princesse, the bodice, knickerbockers, and skirt in one, made of muslin or soft coloured silk, the skirt of exceeding width falling into soft, close folds, and trimmed in various ways with the lace insertion, some in perpendicular rows from the waist, some in horizontal lines, and some in lattice.

Heloise.