LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XVIII, Issue XIX, 8 May 1897, Page 588

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS

LL will agree that it is quite an error to fancy that the pretty new lead white and bananacoloured hats are not within the means of those with but a moderate amount of pin money. If, to begin with, you invest in a really firstclass felt (good things are generally the cheaper in the long ran), you will find that when the same is soiled by

blacks and smuts you may quite safely submit it to the hands of the dry-cleaner, who will restore it to its pristine freshness, besides blocking it anew. Of course with common shapes this treatment is quite out of the question. I have already noted some very charming white cloth chapeaux at the different private views and smart social gatherings that herald in the winter season—to my mind always a more cosily delicious one than the saison in the glittering, merry May-tide. One of the most delightful shapes I have seen in the latest material is a dashing cavalier hat, bordered with narrow silk cording en suite with the snowy cloth. The flower pot crown would perhaps be a little masculine and rather formal were it not for a redeem ing addition in the shape of some rich geraninm piece velvet, very silky in quality, draped with an insouciant

picturesqueness round the crown. A long-shaped milliner’s buckle, in quaint old paste, holds down the drapery on one side and forms a rather piquant contrast to the three black plumes rising up opposite. One of the most admirable features of * La Cavaliere ’ is that it is not overburdened with trimming, after the manner of some of the essentially ‘ shoppy ’ hats. As regards other delicate-toned millinery, the whole scale of tans and ‘ biscuits ’ has been exhausted ; and lately I caught sight of a very dainty confection in champagne-coloured velvet, banded in with deep cardinal folded relours ribbon, and further rigged out girlishly with cream and coral shot piece taffetas, duly chicore according to one of the freshest fancies of La Mode. Ombre feathers and ombre ribbons bid fair to be immensely popular; and indeed certain very delightful effects may be secured by means of these trimmings in graduated shadings. I have sketched in the initial one of the prettiest novelties this season has divulged—a floral muff. The muff itself is made of leaf-green corded silk, and is sus pended by green cords. A series of small green silk cords are fastened jiatly at close intervals to the muff, and through these pass the stems of the blossoms. The best model I have seen was covered with chrysanthemums, rose buds, and ivy leaves, with a cascade of tiny grass foliage. Any girl with taste, deft fingers, and a garden or conservatory can add this dainty appendage to her outdoor toilette, though they are sold at alarming prices at the London West End shops. The smartly-strapped and trumpet-collared tan coachmen's capes that have especially claimed one's attention during the autumn will probably continue to be worn in the winter ; but sensible people will have them lined with an inexpensive fur, or snugly wadded under a facing of some bright fancy silk. If my lady desires to make her autumn mantle still cosier for bleak weather, she may wear one of those comfortable fur scarves with stole-like falls of cream lace sewn to it on each side, so as to considerably smarten the outline of the shonlders. A favourite design for the sleeves of evening bodices is the butterfly bow model, which is really nothing else than a gigantic bow of the material, tied at some inches above the elbow, a jewelled strap being the only attempt at covering on the actual shoulder. In a forthcoming article I intend enlarging on the question of gossamer raiments for receptions and balls. But in the meanwhile, let me only mention the facts that tulle, both fine and coarse, besides Brussels and that very inexpensive but showy Russian net, with its wide meshes, will be quite the thing this winter for dancing frocks. Here is the illustration of a smart day toilette, carried out nearly on the same lines as a delicious little gown worn in one of the popular Parisian plays. The new repp cloth, in a certain soft shade of cedar brown, is employed for the principal portion of the frock. The bodice is fashioned as a full * baby * blouse, and is drawn

in neatly at the waist under an emerald green velvet ceinture silver-buckled in the centre. Over the front box-pleats, which bag quite * d la Parisienne ’ over the band, is stitched some wide tuff-tinted silk guipure.

This garniture is repeated all round the dashinglyshaped emerald green velvet collar that is cleverly lined with ivory satin and made to take off, so that sometimes it may be replaced by a flimsier arrangement. The old-world pelisse has come back with improvements even greater than those of some six years ago, when the very womanly 1830 garment (so suggestive of romance and runaway matches) was revived by the Art tailors. The up-to date full length cloak is verily a thing of sartorial beauty. Ours of to-day is a French

model in bottle green faced cloth, lined throughout with the same coloured surah shot, in warm Chinese yellow. The mantle hooks down one side under a broad hemming of mink. Then come the cape-sleeves, fashioned according to the design of the latest visites. These are exceedingly graceful and are quite in keeping with a yoke of ‘ tangerine ’ velvet studded handsomely with jet sequins. Under the cloth storm-collar droops a flounce of soft ecru lace just to show that in many of her freaks the winter fashion is still in sympathetic touch with the flown summer. Apropos of other out door raiment, the short i-isiles I have just touched on en passant have very frequently an embroidered velvet or satin waistcoat by way of a handsome contrast to the sober cloth portion of the cape, ribbon streamers starting from the side seams to form a bow and long ends.

Heloise.