LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XVIII, Issue XVII, 24 April 1897, Page 525

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

(FROM OUR LONDON CORRESPONDENT, REGENT* STREET).

LL admit that this season the visiting and matinee toques are simply unsurpassed as regards trim daintiness and bright, yet harmonious, colouring. For these little fancy shapes such a comparatively small quantity of material is required that it seems foolish to spoil the whole effect of the confection

by endeavouring to economise as regards the quality of the velvet or satin one uses. About the first-rate toques there is always an air of richness. A certain glowing cerise and a warm orange, extremely suggestive of the scented tangerine, are the favourite tints for the little draped or ‘ Beret ’ head-dress, on which knifeshaped quills, birds’ wings, and glittering buckles play so important a part this autumn. In theßoisand on the Boulevard just now the prettiest design is the charming shape which heads our column. It may be observed that the brim is slightly turned up all round, and be concluded from the particular set of the trimming, that the crown is shaped rather high and softly rounded to do away with those sharp outlines that often spoil the effect of an otherwise delightful chapeau. To be extremely explicit, we might sum up this special shape as a large and very much improved ‘ sailor ’

model. It is fashioned in smooth, silky ‘ bishops ’ violet felt, with the brim lined flatly with velvet just a suspicion darker than the cloth. On one side are pinned three ostrich plumes, deliciously shaded from the deep purple to a faint shade of ‘ parma ' mau\e. Then comes an arrangement of broad fluted faille ribbon, the design being a violet pattern de jantaisie on a daffodil yellow ground. Here and there, catching down a fold or clasping the stem of a feather, is a brilliant paste medallion supplying that slight touch of flamboyant glitter without which no piece of millinery seems really complete in these times when jewels are qnite the order of the hour. Good boots and gloves, with an accompanying bat of first-rate style, contribute more to a ladylike appearance than all else ; and, while there is nothing smarter in the way of gloves than immaculate white kids, nothing looks worse than a pair that have lost their pristine snowiness. Only those with ample pin money should indulge in such daintiness in the daytime. However, this winter, dark ' brick ’ brown and ‘ cigar ’ coloured dog-skins for walking purposes are to be demodr as well as white. From the question of gloves to that of outdoor mantles there's but one step. To redeem the new black cloth elbow capes from anything like dowdiness, or rather dinginess, they are piped either with clean white, delicate green, scarlet, faint blue, or. better still, pink lainagr. The effect of the narrow, light pipings on a sombre background is altogether chic and most striking.

Of course, the pet colour for our new tailor coats is the Russian green, which the French are at present very fond of associating with white —the tone of their traditional deur-de-lys. Here is a most practical, three-quarter long jacket in faced cloth, of the ‘Vert Russe ’ shade. This coat is double-breasted —such as the latest fashion decrees it should be ; smoked pearl buttons ornament it from breast to waist; while a beantifully-sitting collar

in extremely dark green velvet—nearly black—sets off the lighter tone of the woollen material. The garment is lined throughout with shot cardinal and green surah, and has buttonholes pierced through the cloth revers; these apertures suggesting the addition, say, of a spray of cheery scarlet geranium, or a little nosegay of Nice violets. The narrow, daintily shaped cuffs are en suite with the turned-down collar which enframes a stand-up one in starched lavender linen, with the ‘ bachelor’ tie in satin of the same delicate colour. •*♦ • • • In Fig. 3 I give a charming gown that would be immensely successful for dinner, an • At Home,’ or small dance. It is of Japanese, or Mikado silk, a white ground with various coloured flowers. The bodice fastens at the back, and is shaped in front by pleats into the centre.

A square collar of jewelled passementerie heads a broad frill of white lace. Armlets of the passementerie draw the puffed sleeves into the arm just above the elbow, from whence falls the broad frill of white lace again. A pointed band of the passementerie completes this lovely frock for evening wear. Some of the new winter dresses at Te Aro House, Wellington, are so good and pretty, that one longs to invest in a complete costume of each. Clad in a Kaiapoi dress tweed, one can brave inclement weather in comfort. Ladies should specially note the warm underclothing to be seen in this establishment.

Heloise.