LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XVII, Issue XI, 12 September 1896, Page 345

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

HEdrawing-roomsheld eitherby Her Majesty or the Princess of Wales usually give the keynote to spring costumes for the evening. Much tulle was worn, especially among debutantes ; and it was noticeable that the majority of skirts were cut with much less fulness at the side than those in fashion the whole of this past season. The flowersprays were more beautifully arranged than ever ; while artificial blossoms, as hem-trimming, corsage-garnitures and chMeleines, seemed to have attained the pink of perfection. In millinery the colour blends are to be so complicated this year that it will undoubtedly require a master-touch to save our hats and bonnets from degenerating into vulgarity. For this reason it is advisable that we should devote much forethought to the selection of simple headgear, never trusting blindly to the secondrate modiste. Here are a group of dainty spring confections in which the colours are chosen with discretion. The wide round hat, which heads the trio, is composed ot cornflower blue chip with the trimming branching forth in crisp French loops all round the low crown, only one of them standing up straight from the rest.

For the fashioning of these bows some very rich pearlgrey gros-grain ribbon shot with delicate pink has been chosen, the pretty glac6 surface being faintly pencilled with stripes that match the blue straw. At the back the head rests on a wide bandeau of blush roses, clumped closely together, over which the chip is raised. Now we come to an essentially lady-like little bonnet, such as a refined woman would love to wear for church of a Sunday morning. In shape it rather resembles the neat capotes that were worn some years ago under the name of ‘ Princessbut in treatment it is quite unique, and uninfluenced by any past modes. Built in a rough ivy - green straw it looks quite over-grown, so to say, with the shaded violets that tone in so excellently with the groundwork. Behind there is a perky bow in chini ribbon, which liasshadowy parma violets and faint pink daisies trailing over a light green surface. This silk is very artistic, especially as through the loops darts forth a note of subduing black in the shape of a jet osprey. Under the chin are tied narrow strings of black velvet ribbon to complete a thoroughly up-to-date bonnet. This group of seasonable millinery is brought to a close by a charming toque in fancy brown straw. Fixed picturesquely about this pretty little close shape are light sprays of cowslips with their accompanying foliage, so refreshingly spring-like in its tender green. Some of the flowers drop carelessly on the hair at the back, the whole shape being crowned by a bow of bronze silk. This is just the kind of small hat to wear with a trim tailor-made gown, when the first

mild days bid us cast our winter cloaks and furs, and don lighter raiment. The Parisians, who will not allow themselves to be accused of having disinterred the much-abused crinoline, have, anyhow, gone so far as to lately issue a petticoat called *Le Gavarni,’ made in thick rustling silk and stiffened with rows of aluminium springs. This garment is certainly nothing but a crinoline decidedly modified and turned out with all the artistic improvements of the year * 1896.* It has the advantage of giving acertain grace to the movements of the wearer, and, moreover, does away with the necessity of stiffening the skirt of the dress. However, for simple tailor-made gowns no starched interlining or steeled under-petticoat is required, considering that it’s now the mode to model these walking-frocks with all the fulness at the back and on much more abbreviated lines. By the way, dark blue serge has come in again this season to gladden toe hearts of those always faithful to the memory of this essentially useful and lady-like material ; while glossy alpacas of the same shade are also voted as excellent

form. With both of these charming tissues the new cream or white revers in smooth cloth or corded silk look delightfully crane, as is fully exemplified in my second design. This is a charming model pour la promenade in navy-blue alpaca with a rather wide rucked grosgrain band of the same shade. The sleeves and front of the corsage are ornamented with peaked epaulettes and ‘jabot ’ shaped lapels of handsome white corded silk bordered with a kind of feather-stitching in blue sewing silk, a snowy lisse ‘Directoire’ bow at the neck softening the severity of the centrepiece. ••* * ♦ Certain chic gowns ‘ sported ’ at the last Drawing-room and at some of the early social evening receptions induce us to believe that our dressmakers are again trying to lancer the graceful 1 Princess ’ cut. This shape is particularly becoming to young and slender figures of which Old England can boast so many ; and we think the only reason of the ‘ Robe Princess ’ being slow in its revival lies in the fact that so very few women seem to be able to master the fashions of these frocks that, of course, require the greatest accuracy of outline. But surely, with all our new working appliances and the numerous schools for dress cutting, we ought to be able to turn out a perfect ‘Princess’ gown. In my last sketch I offer the suggestion of two delightful evening confections cut in this style, the first one being symplicity itself and just the kind of toilette for an unmarried damsel. Composed of delicate 1 rose petal ’ pink foulard—the sort of shade that nearly looks eatable— the only solid trimming this frock possesses is some velvet ribbon, shaded from sky blue to pink, and knotted pic turesquely on side of the chest and on the left shoulder. There is, however, a dainty floral touch in the shape of some light sprays of forget-me-nots mixed with the velours. These artistic arrangements fixed round the dicollcti of a gown are at present considered much more

chic than the frills and berthes of which we have really endured a surfeit. The elder girl, sitting next to our ‘ Myosotis ’ demoiselle, is frocked in a ‘ Princess robe ’ of ivory satin made with unique double sleeves, the only trimming on her bodice being some trails of deep crimson roses intermingled with their refreshing green foliage. H ELOISE.