A NEW ZEALAND MOUNTAIN TRIP.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XVII, Issue II, 11 July 1896, Page 36

A NEW ZEALAND MOUNTAIN TRIP.

EV ERYBODY knows that New Zealand can offer the enthusiastic mountaineer Alps which surpass those of Europe in height and difficulty of ascent; but among New Zealanders the number of those who seek to scale the icy peaks of Cook or Earnslaw is comparatively small. Most of us are contented with mountaineering on a much smaller scale, and think it something if we have climbed the highest point of the modest range which may lie at no great distance from our place of abode. And probably the enjoyment of such a trip is quite as great for those who undertake it as the pleasure of wandering alone amid the eternal snows. At any rate there is no danger connected with it, and one can always enjoy the society of ladies on such excursions. The central portion of the Wellington province of the colony offers many fine opportunities for the modest mountaineer. The Tararua range runs North and South through a large part of the province, and tempts the youth of both sexes among the communities resident in the fertile country which lies on both sides of the mountains.

In our illustrations this week is a series of views of a picnic party which recently made the ascent of Mount Holdsworth, one of the chief peaks in the Tararua range. Viewed from Masterton, this particular mountain does not seem to present any very serious difficulty to the climber, but as the following account of the excursion we have just referred to bears witness, even Mount Holdsworth is not to be spoken of lightly, much less assailed without a stout pair of legs and a light heart. The excursionists, to one of whom we are indebted for the interesting story of the ascent, are all capable young men and ladies, as the photograph of them shows, but even they were fain to confess that old Holdsworth taxed their best energies. Passing by preliminaries we join the party, sixteen in number, where they descarded their horses, the road being ended, and (made preparations for the ten mile walk over tne mountains to the first camp. *lt was now 12 o’clock,’ says the writer, ‘ and the male party were being laden like pack horses, with blankets and tents, and food enough for a party of forty. The girls also carried a good share, and some lamented the fact that, adhering to woman’s custom, they had brought so much clothing. The trudge began, and a weary tramp it was. After hunting for the track for about half an hour, we were placed upon our way by a bushman found in the vicinity, and by half past two we were at the river, where a halt was made for dinner. This over and the river waded, the first steep grade presented itself, and after this the climbing continued for miles, some places being almost perpendicular, and it was with the utmost difficulty that we carried our break-down loads along. Our leader, who seemed used to such journeys, would rush along for a mile or so and then return to help the girls along, and this was always a welcome boon. On and on we trudged through thick bush and up steep hills, resting about every balf-mile, until the majority of the party were ready to drop, and it was with the greatest difficulty that we managed to keep them together. In some places the underscrub was so thick that hands and knees were brought into requisition, and this was no easy matter with heavy loads on our backs, and both hands full. After five hours' continuous trudge, the pack horse of the other party was espied, so we knew that we were nearing our first destination. A happy idea struck our fellows, and was soon put into operation. The swags were tied as well as we possibly could upon the noble quadruped, and with our loads lightened the world seemed far brighter, and things had generally a happier appearance. All went well for a

time, the animal leading the way splendidly, until our general thought he would be far better off on the back of the horse than walking. He tried it, but soon cried enough, for at the first big log the steed made a bound, and our pilot was picked up among the scrub several yards ahead. At seven o’clock a welcome voice was heard, and the males of the other party came to meet us.

* The very welcome sight of a camp fire greeted us shortly afterwards and we were soon all together. The billy was boiled in a remarkably quick time, and we were busy placing the refreshments beyond recall. Thanks to the Fernridge party, who helped in every way they possibly could, we soon had our tents pitched for the night. We were one and all dead beat, and sat round that camp fire with a pleasure one could hardly imagine, unless they had undergone the same experience.

* At nine o’clock it was proposed that we should retire to rest (?). Four tents were pitched in close proximity to one another, each occupied by a quartette of the party. No sooner had we made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would allow, than someone heard wild pigs and cattle in the distance, and soon let the remainder of the company know all about it. Sleep was thus fairly frightened out of the minds of the female sex, and by their constant clatter they succeeded in keeping the whole party in a state of mutiny. The fires were kept going all night, and the girls took it in turn to watch tor the pigs, and keep on the qui vine for the bush rats, spiders, and other insects. Snatches of sleep were obtained by a favoured few, only to be rudely wakened again by the noise in the other tents. After keeping the row up till three o’clock, the girls fairly broke down, and through sheer exhaustion were forced to remain quiet. At five o’clock everyone was aroused from their slumber, which had necessarily been of short duration, and breakfast was soon on the way. Although the night had been warm, the air was now cool and refreshing, and a sluice in the river below made us ready and willing for the hard day’s march before us. From the camp it is seven miles to the top of Mount Holdsworth, aud the grades all along are steep and dangerous. Many a tourist party has arrived at the top of the camp hill, where the trees are carved in all directions, and cried off the remainder of the journey. However, we were determined, and the whole sixteen started, although it was not expected that more than one half would ever reach the highest peak. ‘ One appreciable difference in the tramps of the two days was that the heavy swags were now left behind, and with the exception of a little lunch we were “free lancers.” We started at six o’clock, and for three hours were almost on a constant climb along rocky ridges and up scrub-grown hills. Two or three beautiful springs of water were found on the journey, and they were as welcome as a gold mine could have been been. The scenery as we ascended was simply magnificent, and well worth the experiences. The girls, after about an hour of it, would liked to have returned, but through sheer ‘ bravado ” were forced to follow on. One or two were pulled along by tying flax round the stronger men. Several spells were made, and Mount Holdsworth was reached at nine o'clock. One lady was left behind about half way, it being simply impossible for her to continue,

but the remaining fifteen braved it out and reached their destination. Here, hundreds of feet above mankind generally, the scene was one that never can be forgotten. The mountain flowers of every possible description, the beautiful ferns and mosses, and the frost-like trees are simply beyond description, and can only be appreciated when seen. Above the snow line the air was biting, although the sun’s rays were very strong, and the cool atmosphere was a treat after the three hours’ march. * An hour was spent on the top, where we carved our names, and read the cnrious letter of a former party warning tourists not to make the journey, as it was perilous in the extreme and it was only a fool’s paradise at the best of times. This communication was highly instructive and entertaining, but to be warned after you had acted seemed rather a singular proceeding. Dozens of names are carved on the wooden land-marks and dates as far back as 1887. A snack of edibles was here thoroughly enjoyed, a beautiful spring about fifty yards away supplying the “ Adam’s ale.” Above us the sky was spotlessly clear, although the huge volumes of smoke in the valleys beneath completely shut off any view of either side.

‘At ten o’clock the descent was commenced, and after two hours’ falling and rolling about down steep inclines, the camp was reached. Several times the track was lost, and once or twice affairs took rather a bad turn. A lot of time was lost hunting for one of the party, who was completely “ bushed ” and although his cries could be heard distinctly, it was a very difficult matter to proceed in his direction. However, he was ultimately found in an exhausted condition, and this fact put a damper on the expedition for a time. At twelve o’clock the camp was again reached, and dinner was on the way. Although we had gone fourteen miles that morning, it was necessary to proceed another ten before the Tararuas were left behind. So packing the horse with as much as it could carry, we were on the way again at one o’clock. We were constantly on the move among the hills and dales, rivers and creeks, till six o’clock, when the welcome sight of a hut was announced, and a sigh of relief and thankfulness went up all round. Some of the crowd were left miles behind, who, if they had been waited for, would have taken another two hours or more. When all together, we lost no time, as we were anxious once more to reach some signs of civilization, and were quite satisfied about Mount Holdsworth as a pleasure trip. The brake being ready, we were soon away, and came across the river via Fernridge for a change. When ascending one of the many steep inclines on the road, the swingle-tree of the vehicle smashed, and we suddenly came to a standstill. Ropes and bush wood were brought into requisition, and another start was made, and nothing further happening we reached Masterton about eight o’clock, after an excursion which will never be forgotten by any of the party.’