LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XVII, Issue I, 4 July 1896, Page 29

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

_ one of the prettiest ww’lrl hat s^la P es which has been 19MV popular for so long, and that '■jk -ASr bids fair to be in favour for aSlay many a long day to come, is it” - the Canotier bat. Its popuJRwwaJlHKy? larity is no doubt due to its -ynwyhffißySfrs simplicity of style and unex- ' aggerated lines, which will always prevent it from being classed among those confections that look really hideous when seen in a photo a year or so after they are out of date. The French, who usually exemplify so great a discrimination in matters of dress, especially favour the neat little shape that may be trimmed to any height of afternoon smartness. Here is a very chic little chapeau, noted recently at a ‘ P.V. Tea,’ as are now called the light refreshments that smart hostesses offer to their friends on these days when new art exhibitions are open to visitors. By the way, one is inclined to think that it is the ‘ Derby Tea ’ idea, which has inspired womenkind with this latest innovation so welcome these cold wintry days, when the ‘ Ceylon ’ and muffins at the galleries themselves generally follow the

chilly example of the weather. But to return to our hat: it is an uncommonly soft silky felt of that bright • Sienna ’ brown so fashionable at present, and is armed with taut little quills seamed very erect, and mixed with upstanding loops of stiff satin ribbon of the same shade. The great style about this shape is given by the full artistic draping of some * cachenine ’ velvet. The Oriental velours combines rich tones of old world blue, the new deep orange, and a certain moss-green tint. Those who have not seen this particular picturesque blending of colours can perhaps hardly realize what an altogether delightful effect is obtained by the association. * Sienna ’ brown is by the way, quite de mode, and having a fair dose of yellow in its composition, is equally as becoming to brunettes as to those of a fairer complexion. Another stylish hat that would do for reception wear is made of * Sienna ’ net, a bunch of holly duly glistening, and seasonably berried, nestling on one side.

Every year—and the little ones may be thankful for it —young people’s dress is becoming simpler and more practical. The great object of their elders should be to see that the children’s clothes combine lightness with warmth, especially where under-garments are concerned. There should be as little weight as possible from the hips ; indeed, some of the latest stocking-suspenders begin from the shoulders as braces. The question of lingerie is easily settled, what with patent combinations and other sensible inventions ; but it’s in the planning of original yet simple cloaks and frocks that mamma’s skill is put mostly to the test. For a young girl, just in her teens, we present the model of a charming walking cos-

tume in deep bluish-grey vicuna, the only pretence to trimming being some strappings over the seams. The bodice is very cosily lined with Italian cloth and porous flannel, the girlish frock being crowned by a pointed Victorian cape in soft black glossy fur, very similar, we fear, to the coat of a sleek sable ‘ Tom.’ This tippet is double with bright crimson satin, the neat muff only being

a repetition of peltry and this glowing material. Next to Miss Thirteen-year-old we give a smaller girl in a pelisse of a charming design. The cosy garment is built in serviceable box-cloth of a vivid * Mephisto ’ red with full Bishop's sleeves and a smooth cape that requires to be cut to perfection to look really well. There is no lining to the coat as the material is so thick, bnt round my little lady's neck there is a comfortable throatlet in grey Mongolian fur tied under the chin with a knot of scarlet velvet ribbon. The muff is of course en suite, and is lined with • Mephisto ’ satin and secured over the shoulders with reins matching the bow at the throat. To be worn with this mantle is a hat so sweetly juvenile that it must be described. A dove-grey felt ’ flop ’is twisted into the prettiest curves, a scarlet rosette nestling under the front peak, while some black plumes are secured gracefully here and there, the centre one being lightened by a knot matching the little bow under the brim.

Balls and dances are in full swing just now, and it is sometimes difficult to know what to wear at these many gay receptions, especially if one wishes to do a variety of rig-outs at a comparatively small outlay. This season tulle in all colours is voted good form for evening corsages : in fact, for a whole frock, and the old mode of wearing white net over, for instance, a sky-blue or a pink silk slip has revived with the • 1830 ’ bodice. The ‘ 1830 ’ cut isn’t, however, so very much in vogue for dinner and theatre gowns, that generally have their corsages made to come well over the shoulders, with important melon shaped sleeves. To complete my weekly information, 1 give the illustration of a dress turned out in the very-

latest cut of the gay capital. The principal portion of this toilette is composed of rather deep cream gros-grain, sprinkled with dainty, faintly-coloured sprigs of roses. This silk forms the vest, and the ample sleeves, while the basqued corselet, elbow-bows skirt and revers are in white velvet. Across the bust a full ruching of black velvet is introduced, by way of softening the outline. Fur is still added to evening frocks, but its popularity has waned rather since last winter, and it is only considered smart for married women, or those of a solid age.

My very last sketch is a cape suited for travelling or a walking tour. The original is made in fawn coloured

faced cloth, trimmed with pouch shaped p-ickets ; large gimp buttons and froggings simulating buttonholes. Heloise.