LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XVI, Issue VIII, 22 February 1896, Page 217

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS

ERTAINLY one of the greatest mistakes a voyageuse can make as regards her wardrobe, is to encumber herself with a number of flimsy hats that will neither stand dust nor rain. What she really only requires for her yearly visit to the sea or to the Continent are a couple of chapeaux— one dainty for ceremonious occasions, and the otheressentially simple, quiet and useful ; in fact, a shape that does not attract much marked attention on the part of passers-by. Such is the one sketched, a charming shape in brown chip, trimmed with wide bows, extending to each side of the brim across the front ; white wings and white ospreys.

I noted lately a chic little cap, made in various coloured cloths for golf, travelling, and ’cycling wear. The crown fits the head, and the brim turns up and is fastened back in front by two ribbon rosettes, that on the left being supplemented by a quill. Of millinery, however, more anon, as coats and gowns await our attention in Figs. 2 and 3.

It is a matter to regret, you will certainly say. that we are to be enveloped in capes again, and longer than those worn in early summer, too ; there is such a frumpish air about a cape, especially a semi-long one, and they reduce all figures, good, bad, and indifferent, to one dead level. We can, however, cheer ourselves in the fact that the capes this season are not compulsory, as jackets and coats, both tight-fitting and loose fronted will be equally modish wear.

Whatever the garment for outdoor wear though, the sine qua non seems ‘strapping.’ Fig. 2, one of the new autumn models, shows all the novelties introduced for jackets. It is a faced-cloth of darkffawn, with velvet overlay to collar, the same shade. The revers and dart

seams are strapped, the sleeves also. These sleeves I have endeavoured to sketch as clearly as possible for my readers, and they call for special attention as being the cut for this season. Some are cut in two corresponding halves, the seam (stitched or strapped) coming immediately on the top, others in more than two parts ; but the idea is to shape the sleeve by tapering portions from

immense breadth at the top to quite close-fitting about ten inches from the wrist. The fulness is arranged to the armhole by one flat pleat in the centre over smaller ones which lie on either side to right and left respectively.

New ideas for sleeves are still immensely in demand. I sketch a short one made in Ondine crepon or Benga-

line silk, crossed crescent-wise with a double frill of either silk muslin or China silk in a lighter tint.

My last illustration is a French dress. It consists of godet skirt and balloon sleeves in white muslin spotted

with blue. Sash bow in blue tniroir velvet, composed of two parts, connected together at the back with an opalescent buckle, besides forming fan-shaped bows and extending to the edge of the skirt in long ends cut slantwise. Blouse in pleated muslin outlined with lace, which partly fills up the front and back to the waist of the Vshaped opening.

Amongst pretty novelties I have noticed a charming evening cloak, made in grey woollen brocade on white, lined with grey and white glace, and faced down the front with white satin, forming part of the turn-back collar, which was almost tippet shaped, having a cape of the material below. It was to be worn with an evening gown, the bodice and the front of the robe yr How satin, with graduated bows of the material carried down the centre of the front, and edged with narrow gold lace. Under the bows was a narrow galon of point lace. The back of the dress, also cut en princesst, was of grey brocade, and at the side this was lined in with yellow satin. The puffed sleeves were half grey brocade and half yellow satin. They are making many coats and skirts of grey alpaca to wear with coloured shirts, for no material for autumn is likely to be more worn. I also liked some fascinating bridesmaids' dresses made for a bevy of young people, all but one very juvenile indeed. They were made of white spotted muslin printed with a daisy design, the waist reaching only just below the arms, while over this was a little muslin fichu forming a double collar rounded at the back, with two long muslin ends edged with lace, which reached to the hem of the dress. These were held in by a band of deep pink ribbon with a bow at the side, and a picturesque Leghorn hat was caught up on one side with a wreath of pink daisies. A pretty gown of printed delaine trimmed with lace and black satin, made with bishop’s sleeves, is an inexpensive day dress; while a crepon, with bands of paillettes on the skirt, had a V-shaped trimming of the same on the bodice, and lace capes. A handsome model from Worth indicates that the forthcoming fashions of the autumn and winter are likely to be, namely, oue bodice over the other ; this had a full silk under-bodice, and an over one of cloth, forming a kind of Swiss belt, and continuous straps carried over the shoulder. Loosely-made woollen canvas with crepon effects is warm, light, and effective. Checks of colour, speckled, mossy effects, and weird combinations of tint, all are to be found in them ; and tricotrin cloths of several kinds have a silk pipe on shot grounds, the stripes apparently gathered into the fabric. Diamonds of colour in outline on black are to the fore, especially in royal blue, which is to be a great deal worn. H ELOISE.