LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XVI, Issue III, 18 January 1896, Page 77

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

OST likely if a lady were to take K SjF-gjt into her head to ‘do ’ the j Park in a Puritan-shaped 1F 1 XilLk'’' 7 bonnet with long, broad ribbon ’ ends floating at the back (something like the caps worn "* ILfC*! VV in comic opera) nobody would think her at all strange in appearance ; for at present every / sort con( lition of headgear 1 *-Z seems de mode. Lilliputiansized capotes tossed up with a jet wing and a posy of flowers —flimsy creations that scarcely deserve the name of coverings—broad-brimmed and low-crowned sailor hats arranged with white quills and snowy tulle rosettes, and round waved shapes with substantial straw centres and borders composed of wired frills either in lace, chiffon, net or gauze. An example of this fashion heads my column. The crown is in rough, yellow-tan straw, and on a very light frame-work of cream net and wire is laid a finely-pleated frill of cream gauze, waving in and out so as to form a very artistic and flattering frame to the

face. Lavender ribbon in a first-rate quality of grosgrain is manipulated into bows just poised to perfection about the crown. This hat is essentially a dressy one, and rather suggests visions of a smart foreign Plage or Casino. For it is quite the rage now to turn out in one’s smartest and best at the popular French sea-side towns. *** * * ♦ First-rate tailor-made gowns were conspicuous on the coaches at some of the smart races, and someof the dustcloaks really deserved a name less utilitarian and infinitely more suggestive of artistic beauty. There was, for instance, a silver-grey alpaca mantle built dominowise, with the addition of a round pleated shoulder cape. It was lined throughout with rose-pink silk, this delicate summer colour revealing itself at the gathered cuffs, that formed a wavy frill beyond the elastic that confined ■the fulness of the very wide sleeves. At the throat long ribbon streamers united in a shot effect the delicate tones of the silver and pink. An Ascot gown, designed for a popular society beauty, is composed of rich cream gros grain silk, rather broadly striped with dark green. As a contrast to these lines, and to the moire sash, which shows the same ‘ watercrest ’ colouring, the light blue gauze waistcoat, gathered

softly under the folded ribbon, is supremely effective. Deep frills of the gossamer material are slightly toned by vandykes of deep cream lace, more of the cerulean gauze being pressed into service for the fanciful collar and furbelows on the sleeves. With this distingue dress cream suede gloves are to be worn, and a sunshade is to be carried, in the making of which green moird and light blue gauze unite to form a parasol of most captivating qualities. As the heat increases there is every prob-

ability that there will be a great run on grass muslins and pique skirts, with a baby-cape to match. ••• • • ♦ My third sketch is a chic ball gown. It consists of a wide skirt, mounted with three box pleats in Nile green taffeta, shot with white and adorned round the hem with embroidered festoons in mauve beads, smartened

up with choux bows in pink gauze. Other festoons and trails ornament the upper part of the skirt; the low bodice, as well as the puffed elbow sleeves, in pink gauze, in harmony with the kerchief drapery. Pink and white aigrette in the hair. Silk and brocade seem much out of the way for children’s dresses, yet at the last silk exhibition, a charm-

ing little girl’s toilette in these materials attracted a good deal of attention. It was a very pretty child’s frock in richest thick satin brocade, pearl colour, with a small floral spray in pale pink and green. Square neck, with

pale green satin border and stitching ; full sleeves of soft apple-green satin. Of course, the idea and style is new and good, and could he effectively copied in any other and more useful materials.

My last illustrations show some race gowns. Fig. I, princess gown in white mobair spotted with blue. Close-fitting sleeves and winged epaulettes in taffetas, trimmed with blue velvet. Short puffed sleeves in Venetian lace. Hat in Leghorn straw, ornamented with chine ribbon, white ostrich feathers, and aigrette. Fig. 2, gown iu silk canvas over yellow silk. Vest frontsand scarf ends in yellow linon, accordion pleated. Rice straw hat, with shaded roses and lace wings. Fig. 3, skirt in white alpaca striped with lettuce-green. Jacket bodice in white Gismonda satin, smartened with draperies in green miroir velvet, together with bow and jabot in Bruges lace. Marie Antoinette hat in coarse green straw, displaying in the centre a huge lace bow. Fig- 4, gown in ecru spotted muslin, relieved with belt and streamers in pale green satin shot with pink. Black hat, enlivened with pink roses and feathers.

Heloise.