LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XV, Issue XXIV, 14 December 1895, Page 757

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

. I HE, or one of the most important adjuncts to a ‘ toilette ’ and ■ I that which is always the last 1 <?"’*“ I thing to receive consideration I ’ s t ' le um brella. Can anything I produce a more terrible effect ; TgSjy 1 can anything spoil an otherfeiusJ I wise smart confection as effectu- / I ally as a shabby sunshade ? A few words on the topic will certainly be appreciated. The / Wni«llJIIlllllv’ sticks are to be longer'and the handles more inclined to roundness than they were last year. The knobs will be mostly in metal and in some cases handsomely studded with jewels, either real or false. These will be en tout cas (those very handy arrangements made both for sun and rain) in all the tones and tints of shot silks ; and our sunshades are to be realms of delight. Soft fluffy chiffon and lace flounces smother the new parasols ; while some of the sunshades for severer wear are to be in rich gros grain and taffetas silks assuming decided colourings, such as water cress green, violet or brown. White and cream moire sunshades also figure on this season’s fashion-list.

Every year the milliners are becoming more and more artistic in their arrangement of the pretty nothings that play so important and flattering a part in the dress of womenkind. One hovers in quite a bewildered condition in the midst of crumpled green straw toques smothered with blue hyacinths, and large yellow shapes veiled with

delicate cream lace, with a relief in the way of a couple of glossy black plumes. A column would only hold but a very minute portion of the description of the various styles of smart head-gear. However, among all these much-bespangled, beflowered and befaced confections a woman, with the least eye to the all-important practical, would wonder how all these flimsy frivolities would look on a rainy day, when the winds are high and the clouds are low ; for the majority of those who turn out hats and bonnets always seem to think of the sunshine. Here is an excellent suggestion for a cMotier shape, wearable in

all weathers. The straw is rough and cinnamon-brown in colouring, an enrolee of bows in green and brown shot ribbon being secured at the side. Round the crown of medium height there is a twist of the silk with two cutsteel brooches pinned on each side, and fastened buttonwise. These metal ornaments are very much de mode and afford a first-rate finish to any hat. Excepting in tailor-made gowns, in which case the coat matches the skirt, jackets are not half so popular as was prophesied at the end of the winter. There is nothing very chic about a cloth paletot worn with a dress of a different colour. This blend, to my mind, generally suggests Sarah out for the day. Of course an exception may be made in favour of those exceedingly smart sleeveless coats so popular in Paris. For the making of these, satin, velvet, and rich lace or guipure appliques are not considered too costly. However, the bell-cape, in which the material is in no way stinted, is the out-door garment par excellence of the season. This full mantle, cut so as to stand out quite crispy, reaches just below the elbow, and is therefore not in the least dowdy as regards length. Crepon, more popular than ever, is mostly employed for these capes, the roughest make possessing the greatest style. My second sketch gives the model of a dainty summer tippet in very light fawn crepon. Accordeon pleating is here brought into request with great effect, and at intervals are straps of cornflower blue satin embroidered with small copper sequins. An oldworld collar in deep cream coarse guipure is headed by a chiffon ruffle of the bluet shade, while the now unavoidable rosettes are in the thick lace. There is rather an inclination at present for jet spangles or chenille fringes, but in quite a modified way, as is shown by our cape model. The lining, by the way, is in surah shot, from delicate tan to blue. A mantle of this kind appeals especially to girls who don’t care to buy too many clothes at the same time, for it serves both as a day and evening wrap.

And now it’s d voire tour, mesdames, to have your gowns commented on ! The reign of Henry IV. is to inspire the dressmakers during the coming season. The high scoop-collars and neck ruchings hail from this interesting period, while the up-to date skirts are not unlike those worn by the ladies of those good old times. Taffetas silks, striped either vertically or horizontally, with a contrasting colour ; and soft ecru mull muslins, lavishly embroidered, to form trimmings, pouch fronts, or, as the summer advances, entire toilettes, are already inscribed in this spring’s fashion book. Here is a silver-

grey taffetas frock, striped with turquoise blue, and showing cape-revers in velvets of the cerulean hue, that dimin’sh into narrow lapels. These meet at the waistline, and are overlaid with some embroidered ecru muslin that matches the bordering of the cape. There is a p’eated front of the same soft material minus the broderie, and from the left side haug blue velvet streamers. While awaiting mild days when the sunlight shall command us to don the freshest and brightest of raiment, a gown of this kind would be very suitable for smart indoor occasions.

My fourth sketch is a tasteful walking dress of greenish crepon with suggestions of pink wavy lines in clusters. The neck and long frill are 111 pink lisse over the short

shoulder cape, which is lined with pink silk like the belt. An exquisite lace collar with pointed ends to the

waist appears under the cape in front. The bonnet is simply pink blossoms with dragon’s gauze wings in front.

Heloise.