LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XV, Issue XI, 31 August 1895, Page 277

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

<ANCY wallflowers are specimens of the flower kingdom which a few folks are particularly fond of, and the rest pass over as too homely and unattractive to be worth their royal attention. Yet there is much that is charming in this unassuming blossom, whose velvet-like surface varies in every beautiful shade of yellow and brown, from the lightest to the darkest, and richest, and its scent is delightful. Milliners, this spring, seem to have registered a vow to bring the wallflower’s unassertive beauties to the front for hat and bonnet decoration. Wonderfully good imitations are to be seen in all directions just now, though some (for no apparent reason) are of a size calculated to create some astonishment in the floral minds of nature’s productions. For a spring hat, these flowers make very pretty and novel trimming, for we are all jost a little tired of the same violets, primroses, daffodils, and cowslips, spring after spring ; pretty as they all are, one can endure a change occasionally, even in the prettiest things with pleasure. *** • • * In Fig. 1 I give a tasteful example in a brown straw shape with broad round brim and low round crown, which is encircled by a wreath of wallflowers, in this case of normal dimensions. The brim is lined with velvet the shade of the deepest tone of the flower ; loops of velvet ribbon of a similar tint (the inner side being of satin), standing up on either side, a long sprig of the blossom accompanying the

left group of the loops, one or two of which are also placed at the back of the hat. One of the modish double width veils is also shown in this sketch. * * ♦ «•* * * * These veils are the only kind that can be fixed with any comfort on the large hats of the • picture,’ or (less respectfully termed) ‘cart wheel’ species, and whether the veil be worn for protection from wind, improvement of the complexion, or to keep the hair in order, are far more sensible as veils than the narrow strips of net that often do duty as snch. •»• • • • Janet Steer is really one of the few actresses who dress well on the stage. Of late the boards have not shown us any very smart frocks. About the toilettes in ‘ The Wife of Dives,’ at the Opera Comique, there’s decidedly a general dowdiness and floppiness, and none of the actresses in this play seem to take to the new jaunty skirt with its outstanding organ pleats. A pretty French blouse would come as a relief among these clinging garments. Apropos of this eminently useful adjunct to our wardrobe, here is quite a new design for a fancy corsage. So many people forget or

ignore the wonderful possibilities that lie in a piece of brown linen or holland—as it is sometimes termed—the uninitiated, for instance, on withdrawing from their sleeves

this material, which was inserted to impart a certain crispness, never dream of utilising it in other directions. If properly ironed, this brown holland lends itself to braiding and silk embroidery, and can be made up into cuffs and revers that would look chic on a dark blue serge. But to return to our particular blouse ! The large wonderful collar, falling over the shoulders is of fine brown linen, scolloped and buttonhole stitched round the edge. On this kind of cape a pointed pattern is worked with gold thread, and wide strings of the holland are tied into a large bow in front. The blouse itself is in cornflower blue moile—a colour and material that are quite the rage in Paris just now. It is a crossed one, and has a pointed belt in the same silk. A corsage of this kind could be worn on all dressy afternoon occasions, and would certainly distinguish the wearer from the common run of unimaginative dressers.

Light, and above all white, kid gloves are the very best form with afternoon toilettes. This touch of white is strangely characteristic of this season’s dress ; and the unsophisticated have no idea bow a pa r of snowy gants im mediately smarten one’s whole appearance. To jump from hands to feet! The golosh is now an unknown quantity among la haute volee. Together with the waterproof cloak, in its plain undisguised condition, they have been summed up as quite too interesting. The Americans have taught us to love the snow boot and the comfort which pervades their cosy, though perhaps rather clumsy chaussure. Even if one drives the whole way to a ball, it is a blessing for the

lightly shod feet to nestle in the warm depths of easy felt boots. And speaking of things appurtenant to the dance my third illustration gives the model of a sweet gown for a festive hop. Canary coloured voile is made up into a discreetly hung skirt which is partly trimmed with gold beading, to form dots, palm-leaf and square lattice designs. The lattices are reproduced on the corsage, of which a portion is in satin of a rather deeper tone of yellow than the canary shade. The sleeves are also in this satin, and gold tinsel butterflies are just on the point of taking wing from the shoulders. This design is quite novel and very effective.

Adelina Patti gave large dress orders to the Parisian modistes. One of her frocks intended for spring wear, displayed a mixture of black, white and vieux rose fabrics. This is to be a very popular blend, as my costume proves. On vieux rose box-cloth there is a jet skirt bordering, and motives of the same glistening beads hanging in graduated

lines from the waist. The mousquetaire cuff is in white gros grain silk, patterned with the jet, a similar idea being carried out on the wide lapels. Round the neck folded pink velvet meets a tiny V shaped cloth plastron. The half-

dozen buttons are in white Dresden, with a tiny black leaf design. These important kind of china buttons are—and will be as the spring advances considered a great item in a smart frock. My lady has the choice between these and quaint paste and steel ones. Petticoats made of alpaca are among the last novelties. They hold out the folds of the present voluminous skirts far more effectually than petticoats of silk. They wear better, shed dust more easily, and are considerably cheaper than their silk predecessors ; so there seems every reason to consider their popularity nn fait accompli. Although still very much worn, the glory of the separate blouse is distinctly on the wane. The ultra-smart woman no longer affects them, for the newest gowns from the ateliers of the leaders of fashion are entirely made of one material. Every woman will regret the passing of the odd blouse. It has proved a solace and a joy to the sex-at-large. Familiarity has bred the usual contempt, however, and now that the separate blouse forms part of the regular stock of every shop in town, fashion’s verdict is pronounced, and its doom is sealed.

Heloise.