LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XIV, Issue XV, 13 April 1895, Page 357

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

WEDDING HINTS.

N the occasion of a smart wedding lately, I noticed a particularly pretty, fair girl, frocked in cornflower blue cloth and silver braid, wearing a white felt hat, of which we give the illustration. Very charming was the halo-like effect imparted by the soft material, while the light played on the golden hair beneath. Besides loops of corn - flower coloured velvet, bunches of little sunset roses are perched on this chapeau. The idea of placing flowers on the very edge of the brim is qnite a new notion, and a very pretty one in the bargain. To make the new gored skirt each pleat is gored to the waist, and the front fits up closely with a long hip seam. The skirt consists of the back, two gores, and the front; and would take eight yards of silk. The back is in folds, lined with canvas.

Ideas in wedding costumes are always acceptable, are they not ? At a recent wedding the most handsome cosume was a cornflower-bine taffeta silk, showing a novel treatment of box-pleats. Both on jnpe and bodice there are

a couple of these secured to the lace arrangements with fullblown black chiffon rosettes over velvet. The ‘ fussier ’ the collar the more becoming is it to the face above. With this gown there is a softly drawn white chiffon neckband, with a rosette on either side. At the waist there is some more snowy silk mnslin treated in the same manner as round the

throat. Across the bust the lace is draped in a mode that is a welcome change to the eternal yokes, bands and ‘stoles.’ The tout ensemble was very pretty indeed, and though among the invited there numbered most of the Hite, this costume was the cynosure of all eyes. Soft silk is delightful for tennis, as many of ns have found out this last summer. This fabric in white, patterned with the new black * pen-scratch ' lines, composes the blouse of my my costume. The corsage is only blouse by name, for it fits like a jersey, fastening, of course, at the back. There is a V of black satin ribbon at the neck, while a broad sash of ruban starts from the side seams of the zouave jacket and is tied into a large artistic bow. Thanks to this pretty contrivance, the little coat is kept in its right place. The skirt, like the zouave, is in black seige, both being treated with some narrow white braid. This galon edges the flap

of the pocket, which is in front, thus doing away with a back one. At tennis a girl must look her neatest, especially as regards her plaquet-hole and pocket. Our artist, appreciating this fact, has drawn a jupe, which fastens at the side of the poche, the opening being hidden

by the broad flap. Among dressmakers there are divided opinions on the question of the bodice made to tuck under the skirt, and the one made to wear over the jupe. In general more favour is shown the latter, as it makes the waist look longer, and can, moreover, always be safely secured to the skirt by means of a couple of patent hooks and eyes. Here is an example. If one looks at illustrations of tbe sleeves worn this time last year one is struck by the smallness of them, as compared with our up-to-date balloons and gigots. Indeed, an energetic society hostess tells ns that this season her table will only hold twelve, whereas a year ago eighteen was generally the chosen number. ♦♦♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ The shops are full of the most delightful coats, jackets, mantles in cloth, velvet, fanciful material, or what you will, tight or loose, for evening or for day wear. They are all here, and a fascinating array they are. There are some specially suited for evenings, made of the new watered poplin material, which goes by a variety of names, and looks delightful in a hyacinth tone of blue or an old-rose tint, lined with Thibet, and with a large collar of Thibet; this, in the three quarter length is an ideal cloak for the

theatre ; it is easy to adjust, and extremely becoming. Then, for tbe day time, there is that special model illustrated here, which is made of black velours du Nord, the entire bodice striped with extremely handsome jet, the lines meeting in points in the centre of the waist ; there are jet lines across tbe front of this and an edging of skunk, while tbe sleeves display the fur and jet again. Another good coatis made with a complete zouave of jet applied on black Batin ; round tbe waist are a few folds of satin, forming a sort of jabot at tbe back, while jet beads are arranged in festoon fashion across tbe front; black satin scarves fall to tbe

knee. Tbe sleeves are of the blouse order, tied with satin ribbons and rosettes ; and in the front of the coat appears that queen of furs, sable, which is also to be seen on a long cloak of with a pointed cape'of velvet fastening over on one side, trimmed with geranium coloured velvet bows.

Heloise.