LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XIV, Issue VIII, 23 February 1895, Page 189

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

a ODES for the autumn season are '••s still occupying all our attention. - There are some novelties in details, but fashions are still the same as regards the general cut of corsage and skirt. Again the crinoline topic is sur le tapis, and some of the Parisian dressmakers who have already been obliged to make their fair clients ■' wear either many beflounced starched nainsook petticoats, or ' *• three narrow steels inserted in the foundation of tbeir draped skirts predict that in the winter a kind of modified crinoline, with all the artistic improvements of which Dame Fashion is capable, will be de mode among the Parisiennes. If our anti crinolinites do not gain the day, we shall probably take to the crinoline about springtime.

Large shapes, twisted in very becoming curves, and trimmed mostly either with ruddy berries, seasonable wild flowers, not to mention the large gauze ribbon bows that in some light glace shades remind us of dragonfly’s wings have been generally affected at the recent southern race meetings. Not half so flattering to the mignon faces thus crowned, but very dainty in their way, were some of the * doll’s plate ’ toques worn at Lewes. Round the tiny plateau, which fullv deserves its nickname, were flowers or tulle in profusion, virtually making the hat. To return to our larger and more artistic chapeaux. This * holiday ’ hat could be sported equally as well at provincial races, the seaside, along the

river, or at cricket matches, where a large shape is essentially welcome, when the Roi Soleil is in full splendour. Corn-coloured Panama straw manipulated into a form decidedly complimentary to the wearer’s features, be they either of the ‘ Marguerite ’ or ‘ Carmen ’ cast, is ornamented with crimson velvet ribbon and ripe berries intermixed with their own rich green foliage. Falling from under the brim is an additional bunch of fruit resting on the hair. In some hats I have seen these pendants droop over each ear. They are very French, and give a certain style to a large confection. Among favourite flowers we many count the various coloured convolvoli, that with their trailing grace are even displacing clover.

One ordinary three-quarter open coat, that especially in drills and serges, is now monopolized by * ’igh life down-

stairs,' will, in the eyes of foreigners, soon be as Britishly roverbial as the plain tromers and straw hatjassociated

with the regulation * John Bull.’ We can jnst tolerate the * Eton ’ and * Bolero,’ but are thankful when we come across a coat constructed on entirely novel lines. Quite as smart and newer than any double-breasted garment, is to-day's suggestion for an appropriate early autumn jacket. White cloth and military blue serge are the fabrics brought into service, and very well they look, the dark material forming the principal portion of the coat, while the light coloured tissue constitutes the very originally-planned revers and sailor collar. Round the throat, at the pockets, and on the cuffs, the white cloth is further employed in the shape of broad piping. Blue bone buttons, matching the shade of the serge, are introduced on the lapels that invisibly hook together in the centre.

The pretty evening frock sketch for my third illustration is in pale blue China silk with fancy silver braid edgings round the frilled sleeves and collar. The becoming arrangement of the neck fora young girl who is not fully developed

should be noted. A tiny silver thread runs round the sash ends and skirt. This looks well in muslin worn over a washed last year’s white silk dress. Fur and velvet are much worn this wintar, the former being introduced on white satin bridal gowns. I noted some charming toilettes worn during the Canterbury cricketing week. A popular Kent beauty, who had a brother in the native team, was greatly admired in an eaw-de-Nil surah blouse, with a cream serge, skirt. But ‘ blouse ’ seems far too work-a day a term for the beautifully-draped

corsage with its cream point d'esprit collar and liehen velvet shoulder rosettes with narrow ends meeting to foim a V at the throat. The drapery of the jupe and upper portion of the sleeves, earned out as nearly as possible the folds of the bodice. I also noted a good many grey doe-skin .hoes and jet corselets built in graduated peaks. Hei.oise.